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Posts
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0 NeutralAbout BobPauly
- Birthday 03/15/1963
Profile Information
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FirstName
Robert
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LastName
Pauly
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IPMS Number
43887
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Local Chapter
Three Rivers
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City
Grafton
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State
WV
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Gender
Male
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Location
Grafton, WV
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Whatever happened to artistic license?
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TRICON (Pittsburgh) 2013
BobPauly replied to Schmitz's topic in Contest Calendar: Upcoming contests/shows of interest
Pix are up at http://tripms.org/gallery2/main.php or on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/ipmsthreerivers -
I wish there were kits of ...
BobPauly replied to TGarthConnelly's topic in I wish there was a kit of...
Well, there IS a kit of USCG 82 footers - but it's not in 1/72. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lindberg-1-82-Scale-Us-Coast-Guard-Patrol-Boat-/280965312736?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item416ad670e0 -
Looks great! Congratulations!
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A few picks from my library: Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern, Milton Roth, ISBN 0-8306-2844-4 (The Focus is on scratch building but it's also great insight on how the full sized ships were constructed.) The Ship Model Builder's Assistant, Charles G Davis, ISBN 0-486-25584-0 The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720, R.C. Anderson, ISBN 0-486-27960 All are available on Amazon.
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The kit was, indeed, the Black Pearl, until Zvezda lost the Disney license. The only difference is the small sprue containing the figurehead. Disney pirate movies aside, above the waterline, painted wooden surfaces might have indeed been brightly colored for visibility, but that practice was more common to warships than merchant ships. Below the waterline, the hull could have been whet, dark brown, or black, depending on the type of antifouling voting used. Warships typically were protected by a white lead slurry. Pitch or pitch mixed with brimstone was used more often on merchant ships. Vertical surfaces of bare wood, such as the masts, sides and bulwarks would have been varnished or shellacked in port, and treaded with oil periodically to keep the wood from drying out. The decks would have been a light ash - almost white - due to regular holystoning. Standing rigging, such as the ratlines and lashings on the mast and spars would have been black, as the line was tarred to prevent decay. Running rigging (any line used to haul or make fast) would have been cotton or hemp. The most important thing, though, is that it's YOUR ship, so paint it however it pleases you!
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Dont know about Wheeling, but if you drive east an hour, there's a whole bunch o' goodness. I highly recommend AB Charles and Hobby Express. List of Pittsburgh area shops: http://tripms.org/shops.html
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That ONE Model You Had to Build in 2011--Did You Build It?
BobPauly replied to ewahl's topic in General Modeling
Heck, I'm still trying to get started on the one model I HAD to build in 2010! -
Humor helps, on both sides of the isle. Usually, when I'm trying to track down something in a store, I'll ask an employee "If I were a (fill in the blank thingI'm looking for), where would I choose to hide from somebody looking to tear me away from all my friends on the shelves and carry me off to a strange place?" Occasionally I get a blank, "huh?" look, but eventually I get a smile and more often than not, an escort to the merchandise I'm looking for...
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My suggestion: Polish the disks down a bit - they look awful "foggy" for spinning props. Then lightly airbrush three wide "blades" using Tamyia Smoke (I'd go narrow toward the hub and wider toward the tips). Mix a drop or two of yellow in about 10 drops of Future, mask the disk except for a space the witdh of the prop tips, and lightly spray the edge of the disk with the translucent yellow, and you should have a pretty effective "spinning prop."
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I just uploaded my Model inventory Bento template to the Template Exchange http://solutions.fil.../index_home.jsp It should be available in a day or two for download... EDIT: Scale Model Inventory for Bento now available: http://solutions.filemaker.com/database-templates/detail.jsp?serial=2551722783 Something for the Mac-minded modeler.
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I'm working on the Kinetic/Italieri 1/48 E-2C and I'm just not happy with the insert provided to show some detail at the open crew door - so I'm looking to scratch something more accurate. Problem is, I can't seem to find any ref pictures looking directly into the open doorway. Can anyone help me out here? Donkey shins in advance...
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Looks great! Thanks for the hard work, Eric.