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Everything posted by BobPauly

  1. Whatever happened to artistic license?
  2. Pix are up at http://tripms.org/gallery2/main.php or on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/ipmsthreerivers
  3. Well, there IS a kit of USCG 82 footers - but it's not in 1/72. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lindberg-1-82-Scale-Us-Coast-Guard-Patrol-Boat-/280965312736?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item416ad670e0
  4. Looks great! Congratulations!
  5. A few picks from my library: Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern, Milton Roth, ISBN 0-8306-2844-4 (The Focus is on scratch building but it's also great insight on how the full sized ships were constructed.) The Ship Model Builder's Assistant, Charles G Davis, ISBN 0-486-25584-0 The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720, R.C. Anderson, ISBN 0-486-27960 All are available on Amazon.
  6. The kit was, indeed, the Black Pearl, until Zvezda lost the Disney license. The only difference is the small sprue containing the figurehead. Disney pirate movies aside, above the waterline, painted wooden surfaces might have indeed been brightly colored for visibility, but that practice was more common to warships than merchant ships. Below the waterline, the hull could have been whet, dark brown, or black, depending on the type of antifouling voting used. Warships typically were protected by a white lead slurry. Pitch or pitch mixed with brimstone was used more often on merchant ships. Vertical surfaces of bare wood, such as the masts, sides and bulwarks would have been varnished or shellacked in port, and treaded with oil periodically to keep the wood from drying out. The decks would have been a light ash - almost white - due to regular holystoning. Standing rigging, such as the ratlines and lashings on the mast and spars would have been black, as the line was tarred to prevent decay. Running rigging (any line used to haul or make fast) would have been cotton or hemp. The most important thing, though, is that it's YOUR ship, so paint it however it pleases you!
  7. Dont know about Wheeling, but if you drive east an hour, there's a whole bunch o' goodness. I highly recommend AB Charles and Hobby Express. List of Pittsburgh area shops: http://tripms.org/shops.html
  8. Heck, I'm still trying to get started on the one model I HAD to build in 2010!
  9. Humor helps, on both sides of the isle. Usually, when I'm trying to track down something in a store, I'll ask an employee "If I were a (fill in the blank thingI'm looking for), where would I choose to hide from somebody looking to tear me away from all my friends on the shelves and carry me off to a strange place?" Occasionally I get a blank, "huh?" look, but eventually I get a smile and more often than not, an escort to the merchandise I'm looking for...
  10. My suggestion: Polish the disks down a bit - they look awful "foggy" for spinning props. Then lightly airbrush three wide "blades" using Tamyia Smoke (I'd go narrow toward the hub and wider toward the tips). Mix a drop or two of yellow in about 10 drops of Future, mask the disk except for a space the witdh of the prop tips, and lightly spray the edge of the disk with the translucent yellow, and you should have a pretty effective "spinning prop."
  11. I just uploaded my Model inventory Bento template to the Template Exchange http://solutions.fil.../index_home.jsp It should be available in a day or two for download... EDIT: Scale Model Inventory for Bento now available: http://solutions.filemaker.com/database-templates/detail.jsp?serial=2551722783 Something for the Mac-minded modeler.
  12. BobPauly

    E-2C refs

    That last shot is a bit of a help, thanks!
  13. BobPauly

    E-2C refs

    Got it. And the one picture I need isn't in it. :-(
  14. BobPauly

    E-2C refs

    I'm working on the Kinetic/Italieri 1/48 E-2C and I'm just not happy with the insert provided to show some detail at the open crew door - so I'm looking to scratch something more accurate. Problem is, I can't seem to find any ref pictures looking directly into the open doorway. Can anyone help me out here? Donkey shins in advance...
  15. Looks great! Thanks for the hard work, Eric.
  16. From the bottom up, and the inside out.
  17. Agree with the others about your splotches. When you say you rarely get a smooth finish, is it pebbly? That would be from the paint drying before it gets on the model, in which case, dial the air back. I typically spray between 10 and 25 psi - lower for the up-close, fine stuff, and higher for base coats. Might also check your needle and tip for bends and cracks - that will cause sputtering...
  18. An inexpensive, vector based tool specifically for making decals is available from DecalGear
  19. Nice Orion build! That 130 looks too much like a mosquito for my taste, tho...:D Interesting choice of subject matter - nice to see something different, and you do them justice!
  20. Miller Engineering has several kits and components for EL sheet.
  21. Three Rivers IPMS proudly announces TRICON 2011: The Region 4 Scale Model Expo and Contest! Show hours are 4:00pm - 9:00pm Friday, March 25th, and 9:00 am - 5:00pm Saturday, March 26th. Awards banquet following the show. Hosted at the Holiday Inn, Pittsburgh Airport, Moon Township, PA. Special show rate available. Visit the show web site for details: http://tricon.tripms.org, or send an email to the show coordinator, Tim Swisher, at timothyswisher@aol.com Interested vendors can contact Joe Michaels at jemav39@comcast.net to reserve your table(s). Hope to see a lot of you there!
  22. Some parts were bare metal, others covered in mylar insulation. A good picture is here. Another one here.
  23. Well, damn! Someone needs to update their website. I suppose there's always eBay.
  24. Ever make it up to Denbeigh Hobbies on the Peninsula? When I lived down your way, they were my regular stomping grounds... Dunno if they're still around, but Orange Blossom Hobbies in Miami, FL was three stories of modeling goodness. And back in Seattle, American Eagle was a great shop, too...
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