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PhilPalmer

IPMS/USA Member
  • Content Count

    23
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About PhilPalmer

  • Rank
    Assembler

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    palmerphilip@msn.com

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Philip
  • LastName
    Palmer
  • IPMS Number
    19360
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS Toledo/Toledo Plastic Modelers
  • City
    Toledo
  • State
    Ohio
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Having problems signing into ipms store to register for nats. Password works for forum but not in store. Tried password recovery. Link in restore message not working. When link entered manually message times out/does not open. HELP !!!! PHIL PALMER #19360
  2. Tried booking Embassy Suites at 9:15am 8/21. IPMS convention rates unavailable online or by phone. Hard to believe rooms went that fast. Either small block of rooms available or record attendance for Omaha 2017 ? Tried again today no rooms at any rate. Did I say hard to believe.
  3. Hobby Lobby here has a large selection of rattle can colors, some 1/4 oz and a very small collection of 1/2 oz.MM paint. They do have a good selection of Valejo acrylics. Virtually no FS colors. The LHS has most MM Acryl colors. Their selection of MM enamels is now down to only one rack. The manager has said that he may drop all RPM (Testors) paints due to their decision to abandon the model RR market. Floquil and Poly Scale were the bulk of his paint sales.
  4. Nice job. I've been wanting to do something like that in 1/48th. Thanks for the inspiration!!!
  5. Try to find a fine needle/nozzle specifically for the model Verda that you have. Even within a specific brand ( Iwata for example ) there are needles for each model in their line and for the most part none are interchangable. If you can't find a fine needle for your Verda, I'd look into investing in a name brand AB that offers optional needle sizes and easy parts availibility. Iwata, Badger, Pasche, Grex, H&S all offer several models with outstanding performance and service.
  6. The Hasegawa kits have a flaps down option. Check out one of those kits to see how it's done.
  7. In the 60's and early 70's Oscar Kovaleski's Auto World was a one stop shop for the SCCA's sports car racing crowd. A driver himself, Oscar was one of the top independent competitors in the Can-Am series. If I remember correctly he drove a McClaren. At some point in the late 70's early 80's the business began to shift toward model cars and away from the 1/1 stuff. I was supprised a few weeks ago when I ran across their web site while looking for scale race car decals.
  8. Nice F-4 Gl, I've always liked the ESCI version. What did you use in the office. Oh, one other thing. I agree with you, The grey Navy schemes look way too bland for my taste also.
  9. I'm interested in exploring HDR (high dynamic range) photography for both scenic and studio applications. There are so many options out there it's hard to tell what's what. Are you using an HDR program. If yes, which one.
  10. I'm not familiar with the Versa AB but, you may have a cracked nozzle. That's the part where the needle seats. Even a very small crack in the nozzle will prevent proper atomization. Proper paint thinning is also critical. Try using the thinner supplied by the paint manufacturer and make sure your using enamel thinner with enamel paint and acrylic thinner with acrylic paint. I usually thin paint at a 50/50 ratio and almost never spray over 25psi. Usually 15/20psi. Ron's coments about a moisture trap may also help. Lastly, when you're sure the AB is clean, try spraying plain water. If you can't get a fine mist and good spray pattern you may need a complete re-build or a new AB.
  11. Dip your canopy in Future. Let it dry in a dust free location. I usually wait several days. Carefully stretch the parafilm over the canopy and trim with a new blade. I haven't had any problem with residue.
  12. I haven't built that kit but I have built several other F-18 kits. None of the current releases are set up to positively set the vertical stab angles. I suppose they allow some wiggle room to allow the builder to compensate for other alignment issues. I don't glue the vertical stabilizers till the LG, wings, and horizontal stabs are set to their proper angles and the A/C sits true and level on the LG. I place the model on a dead flat ceramic tile to establish angles and heights. At that point you can make a simple card board template to assure both stabs are at the same angle relative to the ground. If accuracy is important use a drawing or head on photo to cut the template. Gil is correct in that symetry side to side is more important than the exact angle. Probably 98 out of 100 judges don't know the exact angle of the vert stabs on an F/A-18 but 95 out of 100 judges will ding your model is they aren't symetrical. Hope this helps. Phil
  13. I'm interested in doing an aircraft base that represents the crushed coral airstrips used by the Navy in the early stages of the war in the Pacific. The vegetation is readily available through W K Walthers.The construction of the base is pretty straight forward, it's the coral surface that's the problem. Anyone have a clue about the color and/or texture. I have seen several B/W photos where the surface looks snow white and very dusty. Any suggestions?
  14. I think the Monogram 1/48th Albatros has what you are looking for. Phil
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