Ron Bell Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 (edited) I'm working on a project of my own devising and want to pick your brains. In judging a military vehicle class (a la IPMS/USA national contest categories) model, what would you say are the basic requirements? I'm not looking to debate anyone's opinion, but rather want to compile a list of what those on this forum consider "the basics" of this branch of modeling to be. I'll read your ideas with interest. Thanks. Edited August 22, 2012 by Ron Bell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Nardone Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Here are three to start you off, drawn from my AMPS experience--which, in essence, mirrors the IPMS philosophy when it comes to basic construction: 1. Start with the hull and running gear. The running gear needs to be correctly aligned with the lower hull, and then the running gear needs to be aligned with the "ground". Make sure that all the road wheels actually touch the road... 2. Make sure you have no mold seams or mold marks, and take a drill to the end of gun barrels... 3. Make sure the tracks are aligned properly. Make sure they touch the return rollers (if there are any), and make sure they fit into the drive sprocket properly. Check the spacing from the hull, too--make sure they are more or less the same distance from the hull. That ought to get you started on your list... Ralph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Ralph, Thanks. Already a couple there I didn't have. Anyone else have more? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveDeLang Posted August 22, 2012 Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 One thing I see on even otherwise well-done targets I mean, armor models, is visible glue shine where the last details were added. That fault comes under the most basic of basic construction lists but I have seen it often enough for it to be pointed out. Another nit I see to pick too often is fabric not dead flat. For the most part, uniform fabric and tarps and what-not are dead flat with no sheen at all in the real world. Since they're often painted with oils or acrylics on models, they are frequently a semi-matt unless steps are taken. If that's not what you meant when asking for a basic list, feel free to ignore me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 The military vehicle class includes fully tracked, half tracked, armored cars, softskins, SP guns, towed artillery and vehicle mounted rockets. Let it all fly. What are the basics? Not your personal preferences, but the real basics to be judged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ford Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Adding to the list: Decals applied tight to the surface, no silvering and no edges showing. Parts that are round remain so after cleanup......gun barrels, wheels, etc. Smooth paint with no pebbling or runs. No "miracle' stowed equipment....add straps and/or rope. Realistic weathering or wear and tear...don't over do it. If you open hatches....have an interior or fill the open space with a figure. I'm sure there is more... Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
802chrisg Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Mark hit on a good point about open hatches. I would add that if the area under the track fenders where it meets the hull is open as some kits omit this, it needs to be filled. Nothing more unreal then looking thru an open hatch and seeing right down to the track and ground. Seems filled and filed smooth, this can be on anything but mostly is found on gun barrels. Ejector pin marks sanded smooth or filled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Bell Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 That's it, keep 'em comin'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRatzenberger Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Track & wheel alignment from the front, back, side, and above -- each side fully consistent and then both sides matching. Look along the length of the track/wheels to see wheels peeking in/out, height issues, etc. Track shoes should be square to the hull both ways, not canted or slanted. Caster & camber of front wheels. Both tracks on the same way, preferably correctly ! Track not joined well, big seam hiding under road wheels. Use a sheet of paper to check wheels solidly on ground or on the tracks -- if the paper slides under, they aren't ... Barrel seams sanded into flat spots. Barrels not drilled out. Then just basic seam, gap, glue smutz, finger prints, etc on the hull/body. Not exactly a basic, but a big killer is "magic bags" -- those bits of kit seemingly hung off the side of a vehicle with no visible means of support, no straps showing, etc .... You can pretty much lump this into the apparent need to "overdecorate" with bags, boxes, food, etc, that block intakes, would fall off in a few feet, etc, etc .... tie down ropes that would cost, not earn, a scout a merit badge .... weapons laying casually everywhere, usually on the 'bolt' side .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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