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Roktman

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Posts posted by Roktman

  1. 17 hours ago, ju52junk said:

    I like your work area.  Mine looks like a hurricane has been through the area.  I noticed your clear acrylic paint racks.  Just wondering if they are nail polish display racks or the paint display rack Florey models have for sale?  The display racks look like the ones that I have (nail polish displays).  Also wondering how you store your paint sets(like Vallejo)?  You may have limited space, but I use peg boards.  Never used the Stynylrez primer before, are they good primers to use?

    Hi,

    Thanks. I'm sort of a lazy neat freak. I can let the mess build up, but at some point I can't take it, and go Felix Unger on the area. 😁  But if I kept moving the camera to the right, I have my stash, in boxes climbing up the wall.  😉 in a very untidy manner

    The paint racks are simple acrylic nail polish racks that I got from eBay. There are 4 of them there.   I keep the paint sets on the rack, I too use Vallejo (mostly). I just group them together. The top half are the Vallejo Model Color bottles arranged by Position Number. What I do  is that the RLM colors get a big red dot on the top. Then the sets, like  the Metallics and the Flesh set all sit together, Then the few bottles of Model Air I have, sit together. On the bottom is my Citadel Colors, and washes (the best), my MIG pigments and then odds and ends like Micro Set/Sol, Decal Film.

    Stynylrez primer is awesome. Dries quickly and fairly quickly sandable.  I also use the Vallejo Gloss Black primer for the metallics. Most don't like Vallejo because they can't seem to wait the full day for the Vallejo primer to "set up." Use it before it sets and it can come off rubbery. Wait and it's like regular paint.

  2. I saw that as well. But wasn't there something in the vid about using actual sprue as opposed to bits of say, sheet styrene? I thought I remember hearing that, but don't remember what he said as a why... Too be honest I never tried it.

  3. I've used Shapeways parts etc... quite a few times. You're right it's not styrene and you will need epoxy or superglue.

    The other thing I would recommend is to get the Ultra Detail or whatever it's called now, b/c the grow lines are very small and it's pretty smooth. Buying the lesser grade, the plastic is rough and gritty, and will take you a lot of sanding to get something smooth. IMHO the extra $$ spent is worth it when it saves me tedious sanding time.

  4. I made my entire attic into the modeling nest -

    018.JPG.b20922186777eee39494d9b407faaab0.JPG

    Using acrylics exclusively, I've never been "yelled at" for any smell.

    But to get to the question, the prolly most pleasant smelling paint I use is the Stynylrez primers, which IMHO has a fruity smell. 🙂 🤗

     

  5. Another future retro build that I just finished is Futuristic Models' Moon suit. It's a resin kit with resin clear parts (as opposed to vac form).  It has the usual seamlines that need to be smoothed but otherwise a fairly easy build.

    The build diary starts here: LINK

    The only downside was the "brim" of the top piece was so thin that it almost broke away from the "cap" a few times. The other was the decal was *so* thick that it looked like a sticker. I trimmed it close but in a few pics, not close enuff.  Anyway, thanks for looking.

    IMG_2371.jpg.68c99f5f59bc6c105023b29b18e55083.jpgIMG_2372.jpg.dedea2f7eeb4cd405f2b0357f2df78f7.jpgIMG_2373.jpg.ced5b4b476afb8b6e165dda56693adfc.jpg

    • Like 1
  6. On 4/16/2018 at 12:47 PM, Rusty White said:

    I am far more interested in the developmental history of that camouflage scheme!  Where and how on Earth did they come with that design??

    Evidently it was painted with those feathers for its reveal at a parade in 1937. It was called the Firebird after a A russian folk tale similar to the Phoenix bird stories, hence the feathers. The decals make it look a lot nice than the paint job it was given in the field. ;)

    k12-4.jpg

  7. 23 hours ago, Banshee1000 said:

    That looks great, Roktman, I like how you did the under skin tones.

    Thanks everyone. 

    Banshee,  thats the same squiggles I do when there's a lot of boring looking skin. ;)

    I take the very tip cover off the a/b off (DON"T bump the needle), get really close with almost no air and just pull back for the paint and just start squiggling.  Here he is w/o the top coat.

    IMG_2239.jpg.3f397cec17cfcabfa0340170d40307a3.jpg

     

     

  8. I really need to take a break from kit shopping. But here are 3 of my latest. Anyone who knows me, knows I loved the weird and bizarre in avaition. So when I saw the Kalinin K12 reviewed in a recent SAMI I had to have it.  Then I went back to my horror and fantasy busts with Peter Cushing as Baron Von Frankenstein, and Pan from Pans Labyrinth. Thanks for looking.

    IMG_2332.jpg.d4c495a554cf5e2b9b60a2a08007244e.jpg

    IMG_2331.jpg.9de00190d1f1f2f156f8c92a578dcf16.jpgIMG_2333.jpg.38c3e39c280c5a92cf3f8d1ce69c5e64.jpg

     

  9. I picked up this piece from Troy McDevitt Studios at last years JerseyFest. It's part of his Comics series. The base is a stack of comics where the cutouts correspond to the bust you get. He's got about 10 available and I just heard he'll have 7 more soon.

    002.JPG.9d4567385af1c01b827e254e549f4e69.JPG

    Anyway, the kit was flawless and I had a great time painting this one up. Thanks for looking.

    IMG_2272.jpg.ec4b95732395efc60769ce16175ad938.jpgIMG_2273.jpg.0f1a693dce69cd58c35024711dc11362.jpgIMG_2274.jpg.081c0f68ddcfeb9eaf6c1dcaea40a1f9.jpgIMG_2275.jpg.93f30b75485d250060c3ecf143ddafac.jpg

  10. Nice model BTW. I know this is way late to the discussion, but I was led to believe that a diorama told a story. The IPMS guy giving the talk said  "it doesn't have to be an exciting story, it doesn't even have to be a good story..."    Guy in tank heading somewhere - tells a story. But he could also be sitting there. I think one way to "improve" it (if mine) despite not matching the picture, could be to have a sign, maybe battered, weathered,  and broken with the town's name indicating where he's going on it, like a road post. Just thinking out loud... ;)

  11. Al ( and all) I've been screaming this for the longest. But who am I? ;)

    Frequenting forums other than this one, You read time after time how these "kids" (I'm also a graying 58)  bring their Gundam or Star wars starship to a local meeting only to be scoffed at.  And what do they do? They go home and never come back.  While Regionals and Nationals have a good mix of other than military kits from the young'uns, IMO the local level is where the problem is. The oldsters that sit there and discuss the 50th Bf-109 on the table to death and scoff at an A-Wing are the problem. Whether one thinks it's stupid or not, they need to give it a fair shake, even if one has to act.

    There is a resurgence of some of the young. As Robin mentioned there are physical models that go with the Tank online game. For those that remember the old Dungeons and Dragons or Ral Partha, there is a new miniatures war game based on WW2, where a big part of it that has tanks and planes that must be put together and painted. Then there are the sci-fi and fantasy minis and regular sized kits that is very popular out there.  I'm not even included the "garage kits", which are probably the majority of the figures seen in that category.  Some are even repainted the pre painted models. The next logical step is picking up a kit to be built and painted.  So they are out there.

    To rehash - local clubs, take a look at what image you portraying. If a kid comes in with Gundam, a Mech or Ma.K;  even if you're pretending, treat that Ma.K as if it was  a Panther or Sherman...   Ok rant mode over. ;)

    • Like 1
  12.   It takes a LOT for me to be offended, but I can see if we have kiddies here, we need to have some tact.   I frequent another forum where the general agreement is that if there's anything risque in the post the person should put nudity/partial nudity  in the subject line. This way people that don't want to see it, can move on by. Just throwing it out there.

    Another idea is take a look at your image programs. I use Irfanview and then have a Effects option. I just draw a box, and  used the explosion option. The offending naughty bits go out of focus while there isn't a "chunk" taken out of your model.

    Example  (there's no naught y bits in this, just showing what can be done. BTW Irfanview is terrific IMHO)

     censorexample.jpg.6d7f2035999a26d0ab636e499d17b929.jpg -

     

     

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