MarkYoungCrewChief

Gil I don't care what you build, it ends up in the SUPERLATIVE column. The weathering is as spot on as it can be. Well Done. Mark

The only time I jacked a fighter sized airplane was in tech school in 1966. IIRC, we used some sort of bottle jack. It does have to be a able to fit under the jack lug found on the bottom of the strut. I spent my time on KC-135s and with the four tire truck, we would jack up whichever end of the truck needed it, using a rhino-jack. It is very much a common floor jack, only much stronger and heavier. They were pretty simple back in the day, but a Google image search shows all sorts of rhino jacks. Not the definitive answer you are looking for, but I hope this helps.

Don't ever let anyone tell you your work is not IPMS compatible.

Very nicely done David. I had to do one as part of a Secret Santa build. Yep, the first thing I did was sand the rivets off. Makes all the difference in the world, doesn't it. You talk about having problems with the windows. I was told of a technique I find very effective. Use clear epoxy, the laminating kind. It can be found in most any craft store. This is what I used, though there are other brands. https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Clay-Molding-Sculpting/Casting/EasyCast-Casting-Epoxy/p/27003?msclkid=4d833c0669971f5ee5945e5541ab61bb&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping-Catch All&utm_term=4579534652838142&utm_content=Crafts Hobbies-Clay Molding Sculpting Take some clear packing tape - if you can find the end on the roll. Not touching the adhesive, place it over the windows you want to fill. The Hudson side windows are a prime example. Work the tape down good and tight. Mix up some epoxy and, from the inside, drop it into the window cavity, eliminating any bubbles. I use round toothpicks with a little cut off the end for this. Fill the cavity and set the part up to cure, with the windows as level as possible. Walk away. At room temperature, it will cure in 24 hours or so. Pull the tape off and presto-chango, you have form fitting clear window. It took several sessions, but I did the nose windows also, except for the one spanning both fuselage halves. I find it amazing that the sticky side of the tape produces such clear windows and pulls off easily. Oh, yeah. Should you need to, the epoxy can be sanded and polished out. Another note. The light color ring around the windows is the primer I used. Have not licked that problem yet.

Obviously it has been a while since I visited the Forums. Whenever I click on the 'Aircraft' button, I get sent to the 'Builds' page. Nothing wrong with that, but I was looking to see what the hot topic of the day might be and whatnot. Is this just a glitch or something more sinister?

Steve Ginter’s Air Force Legends series introduces volume 224, North American B-45 Tornado by former USAF Museum senior staffer, Geoffrey Hays. Geoffrey is also the author of the popular Air Force Legends #215 Boeing B-50 Stratofortress. (I have no associaton with the author other than being long time modeling friends.) A concise text, supported by insightful captions, covers operational and hardware details from its development as our first jet powered bomber to the atomic role to unit assignments and deployments. This 262 page volume features: 262 Pages, 267 drawings, 355 photos, and 95,763 words in 12 Chapters. 15 color aircraft images Color drawings of 33-unit insignia of units known to have flown the Tornado 4 pages covering scale models of the Tornado from 1956 List and details of all known accidents List of tail numbers of RB-45Cs assigned to Yokota AB, Japan which flew tactical missions over North Korea and Manchuria as well as highly classified strategic reconnaissance missions deeper over the Peoples’ Republic of China and the eastern USSR during and after the Korean War. List of tail numbers of aircraft assigned to units supporting NATO from the UK List of tail numbers of RB-45Cs which flew Peripheral Aerial Reconnaissance Missions in Europe (missions flown from 35 to three nautical miles of denied airspace, sometimes into denied airspace) List of tail numbers of all armed Tornados in The Far East Air Forces and United States Air Forces Europe. List of tail numbers of Tornado that penetrated denied airspace including the Soviet Union in 1952 and 1954 Details of B-45A, B-45C and RB-45C design, production, performance, payload, endurance, and operations. A section on the configurations, colors and markings of all RB-45Cs which were based at Yokota AB, Japan during the Korean War and for a few years thereafter.

Madjack56 - Yes I did, and they would have had they had one in stock. A fellow IPMSer has stepped up and sent one to make a copy from. T Thank you for your interest. Mark Young

I need to BORROW a windshield from the Anigrand 1/72 C-17. I am working on a C-17 for the National Museum of the United States Air Force and somewhere along the line, the windshield went missing. I need to BORROW one so I can make molds and cast a replacement. Your windshield will be returned to you ASAP in the condition you sent to me. The mold making process does not damage the part. Can/will anyone out there with an Anigrand C-17 help me out? Thank you.

Well Then. I suppose you are excused---this time.

Gil. Will you QUIT already!! You are making the rest of us look bad. Love your work, BTW.

Yep. Ask 5 modelers on how to do something and you will get at least 6 different answers.

Very well done Gil. Makes me want to dig out that F-86A conversion I planned on doing many years ago. I don't know how you 'measure' your black stripes, but it looks like you did a bang up job. If I may, I would like to present my method. Paint the yellow. Then cut a piece of masking tape the width of the black line. Lay that down next to the yellow stripe and then mask up to it. Makes for a consistent pattern and is easy to do. Just my way of doing it - your mileage may vary. Mark

Definitely a brilliant, shiny surface. That Crew Chief must have a terminal case of tennis elbow. Well done on a classic blast from the past.

David I have that sheet and you are welcome to the VAQ-33 decals. Send me your address. myoungcc @ gmail.com Mark

Tony, I have a large glass display case, 5 foot X 5 foot X 18 inches deep. It is full. Crammed to the gills. On occasion I have be able to free up space by donating to museums, when I can find a good home for them. Most of my builds are for others, so displaying them is not a concern. I have not resorted to storing or disposing of any of them, but that may be an option one of these days. Mark

As always Gil, you are DESPICABLE!! (As in Daffy Duck despicable - it's a joke son, a joke) All in all though, you need to have your thumbs broken and give the rest of us a chance. Another example of your superlative work. Keep it up.

Gil - You never cease to amaze me. Sweeeeet work.

I found that picture and there was a blip that indicates it will be released in late 2020. Now we need to start a pool on which year that really means

Hi Nick Thanks for your response. I should have posted, but I have a set of the decals coming from a fellow over on HyperScale. I'm not aware of the Azur B-10 kit. When might it be coming out? I have the model built. It is the matter that the paint keeps fighting me. Actually, truth be known, most of my problems are my fault. Thanks again. Happy Modeling

I am in need of the Alaska Mission decals from the re-issued 1/72nd scale Williams Brothers B-10. The ones I have disintegrated. I think they are also on an old Microscale sheet. The Alaska markings are all I need. If anyone has a set and willing to part with them, I am more than willing to cover your cost and asking price. Thanks in advance.

Could it be that the OP just wants to know who built that model he admires so he can contact the builder? Good chance he wants to know how a certain technique or effect was done so he can improve his model. I have no problem with the names being turned under, but there are times I would like to know who built that model, so I can contact him if possible. No arrows here. Just my perspective.

Very nicely done. For many years I have wanted to do one in 1/48th. Have the kit, have the conversion, have the get around to it-ness - eh, not yet.

Spurious Works For Me. It is all about having fun, right! Were you able to carbon date that plastic?

Very Nice Dick, I always wanted to do a 1/48th on floats, but doing it in 1/32 was as close as I came. Did this one in 1995. It now resides at the USS Lexington Museum in Corpus Christi. Run down and take a gander if you have a mind to.

Hi gang. I have found a set at Jay's Models in the land of Down Under and it is on order. Thanks for getting back to me. Gil, that 1/48th thing is one of the reasons I don't have much at all in 1/72.