campingramps

Pete, That is exactly what I'm looking for. I have some scrap windshields to practice on and this should set off the car nicely. Thanks again.

Eric, Thanks for the idea. Didn't think of this. Looks like any good clear wax would work, I would just have to mix the colors to get the smoke effect. Another problem is the dipping part. I have already painted on the black windshield seal around the edge so I may have to experiment with applying it differently. Again, thanks for the suggestions and I will experiment with it.

I need some of your expert advice as to tinting windows. I am currently working on the Tamiya model of the '89 Ferrari Mythos concept car. The instructions call for "painting" (tinting?) the windshield smoke color. I have looked on hobby shop sites and manufacturers sites trying to find a stain or tinting paint with no luck. I did try some Minwax wood stain, red mahogany, unstirred, basically the thinner portion, on a scrap piece of clear with good results except the color is brown and not smoke. Dried in about 24 hours. Now I am not that good at wood colors so I wouldn't know what other stain to try but am open to suggestions. Also, what would be the best way to apply it without leaving brush marks and making it look factory? The black seal around the edge is no problem. All help greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking.

:D Yesterday I was outside removing the rotten door from my storage shed and made a great discovery. Inside the shed, behind a piece of plywood, I found about 6 boxes filled with models that I had stored, and forgotten, years ago. Along with that I found about 10 separate models. Needless to say I was like a kid in a candy store. Some highlights are a 36" long 'Old Ironsides', C-5A Galaxy, C130 Gunship from Viet Nam era, quite a few aircraft :gray-plane: , cars, other sailing ships including an old QE2, and I don't know what else. Haven't gone through all of them yet but when I do I am going to be in heaven. Most of the aircraft kits are Revell/Monogram but are high quality so I know they were made in USA and not China. Anyone else ever had this kind of unexpected gift?

Don, Thanks for the info. I have visited their site but I guess I missed that article. I am going to wait at least a week before I try anything else. Just waxed the rest of the car and it looks fantastic. I'll post pics when I finish.

Ed, Thanks for responding. My problem might be that I didn't let it cure long enough before continuing. What I will probably end up doing is remove the wax and go from there with the polishing compound. I didn't use factory colors on this car because, frankly, i didn't care for them. I used a deep blue semi pearl which changes under the light. Looks cool but definately not factory. Thanks again for the tips.

I'm currently building Monograms 1:12 scale '69 Camaro and I am having one heck of a problem with the paint on the hood and top of the fenders. Almost looks like an overspray but I thought I was being overly careful with this one. Sanded between coats to the point it felt smooth, washed the parts and let them dry thoroughly, and applied the paint evenly. Problem seems to have popped up with the clear coat. I use Dupli-Color for my paint and this works great. Easy to apply and nice sheen. I have sanded the hood 3 times now and applied the clear and still have the problem. Like I said, just on the hood and fender tops. Rest of the car is perfect. When I first apply the clear it is perfectly smooth but after about an hour the 'overspray' problem pops up. Even tried some Macquires (sp?) paste wax which helped a little. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Great job, James. Put this model on some asphalt and you would think it was real. looks like the driver got up close and personal with another.

Nice looking racer Mike. You did a great job. As for the seating, well, maybe the guy in charge of that detail had a late night :drillsergeant: .

Anyone familiar with Moebius Models? Just bought their '53 Hudson Hornet and the kit looks pretty nice so far. Didn't see any flash other than very small amounts and the parts seem to be good quality. The instructions are fabulous with painting tips, and assembly suggestions. They even give the original Hudson colors and numbers along with Ditzler paint numbers. My dad had a '53 and I still remember the trips and lying on the rear package shelf with my brother (yes, it is that big) looking at the stars. My dad's was a 4 door where this model is a 2 door. Also, anyone have a suggestion on making the seat fabric look like cloth rather than flat paint? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

I think I have solved my problem. At least temporarily. I found a paint in the local Pep Boys that works great. It is Dupli-Color Perfect Match. Now, I'm sure some of you other modelers have used this, especialy car guys but I love it. Started with Honda aluminum and this stuff looks and feels like metal. Dries fast and hard and goes on evenly. I'm not sure if there are any colors that would work for armor or aircraft, but this summer while I work on boats and auto stuff I will use it.

Mike, I'm going to have to disagree on the '69 Camaro. I'm currently building one and, although the fit is good on 85% of the parts, I have had some major fit problems on mine. Front sub frame had HUGE gaps at the side rails, rear body panel is way off (trying to figure how to fit after painting), stock wheels only fit those skinny tires. Only redeeming aspect is the interior. That is perfect. Color and texture look exactly like the camaro I had. Painting this would have ruined it. One other thing is fitting the frame after painting. Body has to be really stretched to get it in. Scary!!

Anthony, I have 2 locomotive kits put out by Revell. They are both 1/87 scale and one is the Hudson and the other is the Big Boy. They are for static display only and I'm not sure which train scale that is-HO or O-but they seem to be nice kits. I bought these at Hobby Lobby. A lot of parts and it says skill level 3 if that tells you anything.

I've never seen SG in anything but those tiny little tubes, but one in a bottle with a brush WOULD be handy. I bought some SG at Dollar Tree today and I think I found a bargain. 3 fairly good size tubes for a buck. They also sold a SG that is a gel. I don't know if that is useful or not, but I bought some anyway.

Thanks, Rob. Yeah, I noticed the Italeri name on the box after I posted. I'll try them.

First let me say I HATE SQUIRRELS!! I have had to keep my model stash in my storage shed out back due to lack of room in garage. Somehow squirrels got in there and played havoc with the kits. I have been salvaging what I could but quite a few are in model heaven. I rescued a Testor kit that seems to have everything but the instructions and decals. It is the 1:35 M32 recovery vehicle Testors kit #806 and is based on the Sherman tank. I e-mailed Testors but haven't heard from them and the kit is no longer in production. If any one has a set or knows where to get one, I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks

Know what you mean, Nick. I've built the '24, and '25 and have the '29 in the box. Like you said, they look good but then the nightmare starts. Have the old DC-3 (Eastern Airlines configuration) and this one had a serious fuselage warpage issue but I think that was caused by sitting for quite a few years subject to extremes in heat and cold in my uninsulated garage. I am not surprised in the poor quality of the newer issues, though, since they are no longer made in the US. I have three Monogram aircraft kits left but they may sit on my shelf and collect dust for quite awhile.

Jim, Then I advise you NOT TO LOOK ON EBAY!!!!! You can usually find ANYTHING and EVERYTHING your heart desires!!!!! http://shop.ebay.com...6.c0.m270.l1313 I know--hint -hint -wink -wink . Never realized they were still out there. Can't remember what my mom paid, maybe .50c or a dollar. I know, I'll borrow Doc Brown's Deloreon time machine and get one. Thanks Mark.

I have come to a crisis in my modeling that I don't think I've ever heard of before. The weather has actually caused me to stop building for a while. See, I live in lovely, hot, HUMID North Carolina. My 'work bench' is in my garage. My garage is not insulated, heated or air conditioned. I might as well be outside. The high humidity does weird things to the paint in that IT DOESN"T DRY!!! Painted some parts last night and a truck frame early this morning and they are still sticky. The only solution is to only build on low humidity days--November, December, winter--, wait a really long time to handle parts, oooorrrrr, I could take over the kitchen table, hhhhmmmmmmm. Has anyone else had to quit because of weather? I'm really only venting, but it is FRUSTRATING!!

Tim, I just noticed you are from Sumter, ,SC. Small world, I have inlaws that live there and we visit every couple of months. Any good hoppy shops in Sumter? Nice chatting with you.

Hey, guys, thanks for all the advice. I only have two problems:1) old eyes have trouble with detail even with my 3.50 reading glasses, and 2) don't have a hobby shop anywhere nearby that is dedicated to modeking. Used to have one but owner retired and closed store. I may try the foil except these are fairly small (for my eyes) and hard to handle. I am leaning strongly to the remove chrome and paint idea. Speaking of seeing small details, what do you use to see the details? I have considered those lighted magnifiers you wear. Any thoughts would be appreciated. (What a segue--chrome to eyes ) Thanks for all the feedback. PS I LOVE these forums!!!

Ed, great pics. I used to live in Des Plaines and our house was directly under the flight path to Ohare. When the 707s started arriving and flew over they looked just like your last photo. We felt we could touch them. And the Noise!! I like the way you used that glass. Innovative back then.

I had a Lindberg LST that sat in my garage for years. It met the fate of the large firecrackers and sunk in our little pond. I did salvage the small motor out of it first, though.

I am envious. You actually have a dedicated space. Mine is a card table in the garage where it is cold in the winter and hot and HUMID (paint takes forever to dry) in the summer.