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Richard

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Everything posted by Richard

  1. I'm going to have to try that hairspray technique one of these days. Everyone that I've seen use it seems to get great results! I actually broke down and bought my first Mig pigments last week, Gun Metal. I've always just done washes and called it a day.
  2. Oh, WOW! That is freakin' awesome!! :army7: I'm going to do an Arctic modification of the three-color desert pattern included in the Trumpy BMP-T Terminator for my Panda 2S6M Tunguska kit I'm working on. It's going to be white, gray and black. Have you done anything with the tracks yet? I've never done a snowy vehicle before. What about any washes? I see some really nice paint chipping! I'm thinking about getting some of that Tamiya gray panel accent color. I'm thinking black would be too stark and brown would look out of place. Again, great job!!
  3. Very nicely done! :Smile-tongue:
  4. Thanks for the correction, Sir. :m1helmet: I've given myself 40 lashes with a wet noodle and stamped "No Dessert" on my meal card!
  5. Very nicely done, Chris. I really like all the stowage. It helps give it that lived-in look. :army7: The only thing I'd do differently is take off the M-16 that's on top of the turret. Tank crewman don't carry M-16s in their vehicles. They use the M9 pistol. But that's just me! It's still a very awesome job! I hope I never compete against it at a contest!
  6. Finally getting back to work on the Panda Tunguska

  7. Wow! That's a fantastic job, Chris! I'm sad to say I haven't touched a model in months! You've got me wanting to get back to working on the Tunguska I'm about halfway done with! My club's contest, SuperCon, this year is commemorating the 25th anniversary of Desert Storm. I was a budding, young voice communications interceptor then wondering what the Hell a German linguist was doing in the Middle East! I figure I need to get at least one model done for that!
  8. Looks really good, Chris! I've been neglecting my model building while I've been pursuing other interests. But I've started hearing the Panda Tunguska that's still on the workbench whispering my name.
  9. Col. G: Yeah, I remember practically having to blast the dirt and crud off our vehicles when we'd come back from Hohenfels or Graf. Same for when we were shipping our gear back to Germany from the Sand Box. RobM: I saw some blue (or might have been green) Frog tape in Wally-World this past weekend and started to get it; but I couldn't remember if that one was the low-tack or not. I was starting to think I was just going to have to bite the bullet and buy the Tamiya tape; but now that I know Frog has a low-tack variety I'll get some of that! Oh, and the subject? That's the Panda 1:35 scale 2S6M Tunguska air defense vehicle. It's got my favorite things: missiles AND guns! I'm going to do an Arctic camo pattern based on one for the Trumpeter BMP-T "Terminator" from a Russian arms show in 2013...white, gray and black. It's got really sharp, almost geometric swatches of color.
  10. US vehicles' colors aren't hard edged. I've seen UK Scimitars and Challengers and French LeClercs that did. I get what you're saying though and appreciate the advice.
  11. Yeah, I get that. In the lead-up to ODS (before my unit got called up to go) I spent many a day painting vehicles in full MOPP 4 with brushes! In the last couple of years there has been a rash of digital paint schemes on models thanks largely to China. I've also seen very sharp paint lines on things like the French LeClerc MBT. I like doing stuff that's different. There's only so many Sand, OD green or tri-color NATO vehicles one can do. I've done three color NATO schemes before; but they were always free-hand. Thanks for the info!
  12. I'm about to start painting a three-color NATO paint scheme using Tamiya acrylics. I'll be masking off areas using blue 3-M tape. How long should I wait between applying the various colors so the tape doesn't lift off the color underneath? Also, would it help (or hurt) if I applied a light gloss coat (Future) over each additional color before applying the next? Here's how I see it going. NATO Green then a very light gloss coat...(wait a couple days)...mask off where I want the brown and paint it...(wait a couple days)...very light gloss coat over the brown...(wait a couple days)...remove masking over the brown...mask for the black areas...and paint...(wait a couple days)...very light gloss coat over the black...(wait a couple days)...remove remaining masking and give it one last very light gloss coat over the whole thing and give that a couple days to dry. Normally, I do desert vehicles or straight green. All help and advice is greatly appreciated!
  13. It sounds like maybe I ought to split the difference...a little mud and dirt; but don't go crazy with it. :) Thanks for the info, everyone.
  14. I recently started working on the Panda 1/35th scale 2S6M "Tunguska" air defense system. This thing's got everything...guns, missiles, tracks little teeny-tiny parts that get launched across the room that you have to race to find before your dachshund eats them and PE thingies that will be covered up by other things so you can't even see 'em! :Smile-tongue: The pics above are the most recent ones I have. I'll try to remember to take some more as I go along...when I'm not cursing a blue streak after launching another grab handle. :drillsergeant:
  15. I'm currently working on the Panda 2S6M Tunguska and I'm going to do an arctic camo job on it. What I'm wondering is, what would be the best way to handle the tracks? It's not like they'd pick up mud up near the Arctic Circle or would they? TIA
  16. Wow! Great job! I've done the Academy kit a couple of times. How'd you do the tracks?! They look great!
  17. I shut a guy down one time who started busting my chops on something like that. In 1997 I was entering my very first contest with a diorama of a mobile communications jamming system I was on during Desert Storm called a "TacJam". I built the system around the old AFV Club M548 ammo carrier chassis. The antenna array was entire scratchbuilt from memory and a couple unclassified reference pics. It wasn't on the table 10 minutes and this yahoo from another club started ripping it apart saying, "...the antenna array is all wrong, it's painted the wrong shade of Sand...blah, blah, blah" I looked at the guy and asked, "Wow! you sound pretty knowledgeable about these! You ever work on one?". His response was "Welll, uhhhh no!" Not knowing this guy from Adam I said, "Well, I'd suggest that until you DO, you might wanna shut the Hell up! The array is right! I should know...I worked on it for two years!" I still see him at contests around the region and to this day he won't talk to me. Incidently, I took 2nd place in the diorama category that year. Not bad for my first contest. Don't let the rivet-counters get to ya! If you're happy with it then that's all that matters. Then again, that's just MY opinion. I may be wrong! :)
  18. I know it's not a SAM; but Trumpeter's DF-21 kit is a freakin' monster! It's about the size of the old Dragon Scud kit! I've got the Scud on my To-Do list as well.
  19. I've done the Revell Nike-Hercules, the Trumpeter SA-6 and the Trumpeter SA-2 on the launcher. A long time ago I built the Vulcan. I've got the M730 Chapparal on my to-do list. I only do 1:35...too much alcohol and caffeine in my life to do anything else! :)
  20. There's also Panda's 1:35th scale 2S6M "Tunguska", the older Academy M163 "Vulcan" though not a SAM; but an AD gun & AFV Club's M730A1 "Chaparral".
  21. I know on has been made in resin years ago; but I'd LOVE to see one in styrene! I know...I know...highly unlikely; but still. A boy's gotta dream!
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