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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/15/2021 in Posts

  1. Decals are now on. So many to apply… all 10 of them… lol! 6 Red stars, 2 Bort numbers, and the “boosted” stencils on the cowling. Amazingly the Hobbycraft decals worked very well! Just gotta add the final bits, do a sealing top coat, and this will be all finished…
    2 points
  2. You and me both Mark! Although back then I never built any WWII Russkie planes. Only the postwar stuff, mostly Migs, that was in all the hobby shops back then… Well, I’ve got the basic colors on now. Underside is Humbrol enamel 114, Russian Light Blue. My old bottle of Polly S Russian Underside Blue had dried out since my last Red Air Force build… Topside is Polly Scale USSR Light Topside Gray. That took two thinned coats hand brushed… I had painted the side exhaust panels with Testors square bottle Steel last night next up, the Dark Gray disruptive pattern…
    2 points
  3. So basic construction is now done. All that’s left to glue in place are the usual breakables: landing gear, pitot tube, antenna mast, and the bombs… All ready to start painting later this evening…
    2 points
  4. So last night I received a special request via my brother in law from his grandson, my great nephew, that he would like another plane from Uncle Carlos. I have given him several of of my older builds. Now how can I say no to such a lad? The only problem was, I only have a few days to get it done before our next trip to visit, so the build has to be quick and simple. After mulling over my stash last nite, I settled on this baby I’m going old school and high speed, so no add-ons, just straight OOB. I’ve built the related La-7 kit many years ago and recall it is simple and straight forward, if somewhat inaccurate kit. So no real surprises or speed bumps should delay this. Besides, this gives me an excuse to get the newer & better Zvezda 1/48 La-5 FN…
    1 point
  5. Time for another update tour; this one is a small one given how little time I got to spend on the workbench. Fortunately, I did manage to finish four models; you'll see them in the finished forums. I'll start with my aircraft, since all I did was to shoot another coat of white on them after fixing a few blatant blemishes. First was the Norseman: And then the Fokker F-27: My apologies for the pics there; they were taken in my 'spray booth'. Barring any unforeseen additional blemishes, I'll be gloss coating these soon. Now on to my armor, and another apology: I said I wouldn't have any more pics of my Centurions here, but then I realized I still had a ways to go on my Australian one. To start with, I'd forgotten to put the outer return rollers on the one side. Kinda need them since this tank has no skirts: After that I figured with all the moisture in South Vietnam where this operated; I would rust out the exhaust covers a bit: Moving on, I wanted to get some more progress done on another Centurion; this time the Israeli Sho't Kal Alef. I added the turret storage bins, the fenders and storage bins on them as well: After that, I re-started another two projects that I'd been neglecting, why; I don't know. They are so close to paint now so I finished up adding all the extra parts and adding the "open" hatch to the Type 89B: Type 89A: Type 89B: There are more detail parts to add later but they would break off during painting and handling so I am leaving them off till last. And finally, this last model that has been annoying me by being in the way all the time: my M-ATV. I cemented the interior to the chassis and then finished painting the interior so I could close this up: Before I could close it up, I had to add the photo-etch grill screen on the front of the hood: Finally, this beastie is all closed up and the rear bed is attached as well: I realized later that there was a photo-etch assembly that needed to be added to the interior. Oh well, it wouldn't have been seen anyway inside this thing with such tiny windows so I'm not bothered. Now to finish the upper turret, add the windows and some other detail parts before painting. That's it for now. Stay tuned as I hope to have more to show later. Thank you all for looking in, comments are welcome.
    1 point
  6. I get 300 medals at a time from Mission Awards for our local shows, and that lasts for two or three years (depending on attendance, of course). The package is smaller than a standard box of copier/printer paper. Extrapolating that out, 1,000 awards would likely be two copier paper sized boxes. If you stick with the current format, you use about 600 category (1st/2nd/3rd) awards at a National show, which means there will be maybe 400 surplus medals. So we're back to something the size of a copier paper box as far as goes shipping/storage. As far as how many awards should be purchased? For a 1-2-3 show, this is easy--look at your historic numbers. If your usage across the last three shows is 600 awards on average, buy twice or three times that. Make this a National office duty--the 2VP adds this to their Convention planning punch list: "Verify number of category awards on hand, order more if needed". It can be done at the conclusion of the current show, before the surplus gets shipped to the next host. And if the margins are shaky, order more right then and there and have them drop shipped to the next hosts. In 2016, we had some 60 plaques left over. They are now sitting in my garage, collecting funk, since they are dated and themed and cannot be re-used (other than to pry the metal placard off and use the wood plaque as a base). At $6 a pop, that's $360 that IPMS/USA paid out in that cannot be recouped--using standard awards, that money could be used for shipping costs. And if you can't ship 600 medals (based on an order of 1,200 total--600 used at the current show, 600 left for the next one) for less than $360 bucks, you're using the wrong shipping company! And it isn't as if other stuff doesn't get shipped from one host to the next from year to year anyway... . Attached is an image of our medals. They are 2" die-struck medals with antique finish. You can get them with or without the ribbon. Our last order was made in April 2020, and including shipping ($36, for the record), the total was $861. $861/300=$2.87 per medal. As Gil said, you can have a sheet of round Avery labels available so the entrant can record what the award was for. In our first show, we actually made custom labels, as shown in the pics, and filled them out as part of the admin duties after judging. It is labor intensive, though, so the next year we stuck the labels (again, customized for that show) to the medals and let the entrant fill them out. Here is our source: Mission Awards, Inc. 2030 Tonawanda Lake RD Grawn, MI 49637 E-mail: SALES@MISSIONAWARDS.COM Phone : (866) 396-5481 Fax : 231-276-7682 I've worked with Tim, but anybody on their sales staff ought to be able to assist.
    1 point
  7. Built this one for a co-worker who crewed P-3s in the Navy. Built OOTB; but I did have to make the bat tail art and paint the wing walks since the old kit decals were pretty well shot and I could find no aftermarket decals for VP-24. Now on to that 1/32 B-17E! GIL
    1 point
  8. What self-respecting craftsman would be expected to use unusable decals on a project he or she takes any pride in? What competent judge would do anything but wonder why any sane modeler would think 50 year old decals could be made to work? All such a requirement would accomplish is to discourage modelers from tackling interesting old kits because they could not possibly make the markings look good. The NCC has too much good sense to give that idea any thought. Nick P.S. Consider the impact on old kit sales. Why buy something you could not possibly decently finish?
    1 point
  9. Thanks Mark! Yes, 7 is an ideal age to start modeling. Unfortunately I don’t see them very often. Especially now that we live in different states. and now back to our regularly scheduled build program… 😉 This morning after the gym I sanded the fuselage seams after letting that dry overnite. Then I added the wings… And then I added the chin radiator, main gear well center plate, and the tail wheel mount. I also added some strip styrene shims at the rear of the wing to fill a gap there I had to putty some small openings in the wing front that are a carry over from the common La-5/La-7 molds that should only be present on the La-7. I’m letting those dry before I sand them and resume adding the last assemblies. More to come later on…
    1 point
  10. Just a suggestion. The dates of the convention are not shown on the Homepage. It might be helpful if they were.
    1 point
  11. Mark and Gil, thank you. Mark, he is 7. Not sure if he’s gonna be there with his gramps when we are there. Perhaps one day I can teach him how to build, but I don’t think that’s too likely. Well, this is as far as I’m going to go with this tonite. Fuselage assembled IP Drybrushed and cockpit installed Tomorrow I will get the seam clean up done and all the major assemblies added. It should be some serious construction progress.
    1 point
  12. My progress so far… Built the cockpit and painted the base colors. Just gonna dry brush the instruments and then install it. No washes or weathering… And few of the sub assemblies that I can do so far- the main landing gear struts and the cowl & prop assemblies… more to come later on…
    1 point
  13. What a coincidence.....I did that scheme when I built my 1/48 ID models vacuform P-3C...but I had to paint the bird on the tail, as there are no 1/48 P-3 decal sheets! GIL
    1 point
  14. The wash is a mix of Apple Barrel acrylic black (bought at Walmart), water, and a couple of drops of liquid dish washing soap. Decided to work on finishing up 99% of the nose area; and primarily to determine where to position the nose gun that was added to the floor beside the bombardier. Took some fiddling and time, but got it added and then decided to finish the area out for the most part. Note that that the seat belts are hanging down so that the crewmen can be added later in a "pre-flight" condition. This is the first time I've felt like some really significant progress has been made, despite the mountain of work still to be done.... GIL
    1 point
  15. Super looking Lightning! Nose art themed contest or not, that's going to turn heads and get a lot of closer looks. Thanks for sharing! GIL
    1 point
  16. Excuse the semi-double post. I'm learning to use the forum tools and get the pictures to go with the text 😅
    1 point
  17. Moving right along for week 16 of the USS Hornet project I have finished installing the hangar deck lights. To get the effect of multiple lights I staggered them from each side. All the wiring was routed to the section under the island so the wiring can be run to the bottom of the hull. With the hangar deck finished I started working on the island. I first drilled out all the portholes and windows. The windows on the bridge were then filled with acrylic gel to simulate the glass. The bridge is divided into two sections so I used two PICO sized LED’s to light it up. The rest of the island is illuminated with two 5mm LED’s. I then drilled out the funnel caps and replaced them with the photo etch details. Over the next week I will be detailing the island so I can install it on the flight deck as one assembly. This is needed so I can run the wiring into the hull. See more photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-350-uss-hornet-cv-8-doolittle-raid/
    1 point
  18. IIRC, that's how FSM started out, in the mid-1980s (cue the nostalgic music).
    1 point
  19. From Merriam-Webster: Contest: A struggle for superiority or victory. Victory: 1 : the overcoming of an enemy or antagonist 2 : achievement of mastery or success in a struggle or endeavor against odds or difficulties Lose: to fail to win (a game, contest, etc.) Look, I understand the gist of all this. Yes, nobody really "loses" at a model show--but I know several individuals who had to be "talked down from the ledge" when they didn't win at the Nationals. To many, the opposite of winning is losing. They didn't win the big shiny, therefore, they lost. The fact that they weren't told *why* they lost is what grated with them. One of them never "got it", even when we started having hotwash sessions at meetings before shows to point out things that needed attention. The other ones took what we showed them, and they learned. Note that they didn't learn through osmosis, other modelers had to help them. A modeler without a local club is further handicapped, but if IPMS/USA would do something official to help, it might be a good idea.
    1 point
  20. As noted, people care about winning. If not, no one would bet on the Supper Bowl or the World Cup. No one actually loses in this contest. What happens is is many don’t win. There is a difference. No matter how good you are, there will be someone who is just a tad better. In the end, it comes down to what the judges liked about a model more than what they didn’t like. And someone will still say they got it wrong. Dak
    1 point
  21. Finally got the fuselage closed up. I tested all the lights SEVERAL times, prior to glueing the halves together. I have two controllers for the lights. The small one lights the anti-collision lights, One on top of the fuselage, and one on the bottom. These are the only two that flash. The larger controller controls the nose gear landing lights, the cockpit dials , the navigation lights, and the engine lights. Chris
    1 point
  22. Nats_2022.pdfHere's a pdf on the 2022 convention for those wanting more information.
    1 point
  23. Got some more work done in the Radio room and the bomb bay....... Radio room side walls...doesn't look like that much, but it involves more than 30 PE parts... A few door doo-dads added to the bulkheads... Bomb bay side walls,,,unpainted so the parts can be seen before they're blended in... Bomb Bay doors and the center bay brace.... Not sure how much will be seen, but it's being added! GIL
    1 point
  24. Gotta concur....excellent! Now git 'er done! GIL
    1 point
  25. Most impressive realism here! Way to go Chris!
    1 point
  26. Gorgeous work my friend. Keep those pictures coming!!! Chris
    1 point
  27. Come to the Dark Side and start building tanks and Dioramas. I to have been building since I was 4 years old. First model was in 1958 and I glued the decals onto the model. Dak
    1 point
  28. This is an eBay purchase of a couplle of built relics and of them being Aurora's P-38 ca late 1950s. It is one of Auroras better kits so I decided to see if I could make a decent representation with the basic parts. It was missing the props and rear tail elevator. I used Monogram parts to replace the missing parts. The props fit as does the tail. So this is where we stand. It will an inflight model. I won't be doing any updates at all, only using the parts provided. The USAF and later National insignia are kinda cool in a weird sort of way. I'll probably sand down the biscuit sized rivets though. David
    1 point
  29. I'm sure that you've all heard the phrase "my eyes are bigger than my stomach"? Meaning don't bite off more than you can chew. I've always been intrigued by dioramas. The stories that they tell can be awesome. I've always felt that the best aspect of a good diorama is one that each new time that you look at it you find some new hidden detail that you missed the previous time. I finally decided, a few years back, that I was going to build my first diorama. Being a car guy it almost made sense that I would do a garage with vehicles, tools, supplies, etc. I also like nature so I wanted to incorporate some added outdoors scene as well. So, one thing led to another and the next thing you know my design is way out of control and taking up a tremendous amount of space. It was fun but finding somewhere to store it/display it when it was done was no easy task. I also only took this to one contest after it was done because of the size and weight. Here it is. I framed the garage completely out of wood. Removable roof, real shingles, opening garage door and as much detail as I could throw at it without it becoming too busy. It was great learning experience that mainly taught me that if I ever did any more dioramas, (which I have) to keep the size in check.
    1 point
  30. You'll get a different answer probably from each individual, as tastes and sensibilities vary individually. The only entries to truly worry about are those that border on violating Rule 5; those that border on "obscenity", and are basically pruriently sexual in nature. While they do not offend me, the problem is that IPMSUSA is deemed a "family" organization and thus there's the real possibility of others, especially kids, being exposed to graphic works that do not represent IPMSUSA nor the vast majority of our model building members. As for general items in scenes or on bases that anyone MIGHT take exception to; it's an unfortunate reality that in today's society too many people think that just because THEY are offended, others have to cow-tow to their feelings. For any and all such examples that you cited above, and that do not concern Rule 5, I'd simply tell the individual if you don't like what you see, move on and stop looking at it! Gil
    1 point
  31. Got it from Cabela's, 6 spools, 0.1 to 0.35, should last you a lifetime, and it's priced just a bit over $20. https://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=744541&type=product&WT.z_btnclk=YMAL-744541&WT.z_pg_ref=prd744646 Happy modelling!
    1 point
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