Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'curtiss commando'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General Information
    • Welcome to the Forum!
    • News and Announcements
    • Forum FAQ and Announcements
    • Ask the IPMS/USA
    • About the IPMS/USA National Convention
    • Contest Calendar: Upcoming contests/shows of interest
    • News and Reviews
    • 2017 IPMS/USA National Convention
  • Model Building of All Kinds
    • General Modeling
    • Aircraft
    • Armor
    • Cars, Trucks, & Motorcycles
    • Dioramas
    • Group builds
    • Figures
    • Miscellaneous Projects
    • Ships
    • Space, Sci-Fi & Fantasy
    • Tools, Tips & Techniques
    • Coming Attractions
    • I wish there was a kit of...
    • Wanted/For Sale (public)
    • THEME PICS: Turning point of the war.
    • Photos, Photos, Photos
    • Photos: On the Bench
    • Photos: Juniors' Builds
    • Photographing your work
  • Test Club's Test Space.


  • IPMS/USA Calendar
  • Events Calendar
  • Tacoma Green Dragons's Events

Found 18 results

  1. Installment 16 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  2. Hi all. The C-46 finish line is in sight! Here's the latest shots: The completed starboard main gear. I wound up having to apply BSI IC Gel to the mounting edge of the door, then hold it in place with one hand while applying a shot of BSI Accelerator with the other hand. Definitely tricky and I actually had to clean the cured CA on the door and try it again a couple of times before I got it right. To say this approach is tedious is an understatement of the first magnitude! The same technique had to be used on the tailwheel doors, but with the addition of tweezers to hold the doors due to their small size. The same starboard gear installation from a slightly different angle. The photoetch parts add a lot to the gear door detail and the SAC metal gear guarantees the gear won't be collapsing on you. While I did paint the engine cylinders Model Master Steel, no superdetailing was done. With the props in place, most superdetailing would be obscured. These replacement metal props really add a lot to the finished model. Model Master FS37038 Flat Black combined with Model Master Steel and Model Master FS33538 Flat Yellow produced a very nice result. Still have no idea where my client found them. This decal sheet is from the Brett Industries C-46 kit. Produced by Scale-Master, it's a state of the art sheet with markings for four different aircraft. For the subject of this model, all that was needed was the four star and bar national insignia, wing walks and some white tail numbers that my client sent from another sheet. Update from my client: The metal props were produced by a now defunct aftermarket manufacturer in the UK and were specific to the C-46. National insignia and wing walk is seen here on the starboard wing. The Solvaset seen adjacent to the model was used to snug the decals down. By the way, my ebook "How To Make Your Own Decals" covers the subject in extensive detail. You can find a copy of it at Scale Publications.
  3. Installment 15 of my 1/72 Williams Bros C-46 build is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  4. The latest installment of the C-46 build series is available in the Build sub-forum. Check it out at your convenience and remember, comments are always welcome.
  5. Hi all. Getting close to the end but had to take a breather due to my wife's surgery and an airbrush blowing out on me. Now for this installment: Williams Bros doesn't give you any of the small antennas and masts, which is probably a good thing. This is primarily because of the immense variety that were employed on the C-46. They do provide some reasonably decent patterns on the instruction sheet and tell you to fabricate them from scrap plastic and wire. What they don't tell you is that one of the 'masts' holds a pitot tube at the bottom and you will need two of them. It also doesn't hurt to have experience scratchbuilding minute details and an OptiVisor will be an absolute necessity. This photo shows the two pitot tubes/masts that I built from .030" x .060" Evergreen strip and .016" music wire. The finished pitots/masts are too thin to drill a hole for a mounting pin, so I cut mounting holes in the fuselage. Check you references closely for proper location and keep your eyeball computer nearby. The best I can offer for location is about .40" aft of the rear canopy edge and .90" below the bottom canopy edge. Each mast angles out so that the two form a wide V when viewed from the front. When properly installed, this is how they should look. Incidentally, they are not leaning back. That's the result of the camera angle. You want to be sure that they are perfectly vertical when viewed from the side and form a V when viewed from the front. Almost finished with the basic paint job. Model Master FS34087 O.D. uppersurface and FS36270 Neutral Gray undersurface. With the basic paint job done, a gloss coat of Future (aka PFM) is sprayed prior to decal application. Before the decals go on, I'll also have to install the gear, as well as paint the deice boots and fine details.
  6. They say it's all in the details, so let's get down to the nitty gritty: Last installment I told you the photoetched tailwheel doors were folded along a center line to provide interior detail. What I didn't include was a photo of a tool that makes the job very easy. That tool? A little item called the "Bug" that is produced from The Small Shop. It takes a lot of the pain out of working with photoetch. One of the obvious features of the C-46 nose is a large opening that leads to the lower fuselage interior. I have no idea what it's true purpose is, but if anyone knows I'd appreciate being enlightened. In any event, there is a recessed structure evident from head on photos. I cut a short length of .190" (3/16") diameter brass tubing and inserted it into the hole, recessing it enough to match the appearance of my reference photo. The RDF housing mounts on the bottom centerline about even with the canopy frame that separates the two bottom side cockpit windows. To make sure it doesn't come loose, I drilled a .016" hole into the housing's mount. Then installed a short piece of .015" music wire. By the way, the best tool for cutting music wire all the way up to .040" is a Hard Wire Cutter made by Xuron. The wire was installed using BSI IC-2000 black rubber toughened CA. A matching .016" hole was drilled in the C-46 centerline and the RDF housing installed with more IC-2000. Four masks from the Eduard mask set actually proved to be useful. The discs that masked the main wheel photoetch details will make painting the tires absolute simplicity. Incidentally, if you're looking at the tires and wondering why I didn't flat them, it's because my client didn't want that feature. Getting ready for painting, the props are given a shot of primer. If you use a Nitrile glove and hold the prop by the shaft, you do a very nice job of masking the shaft without having to use tape.
  7. Installment #13 of my William Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds sub-forum. Comments welcome as usual.
  8. C-46 Gear Well Color?

    Hi all, I'm almost to the painting stage for my C-46 build and discovered that I don't know what the gear well color for a WW-II bird is. Worse, I've been unable to find the info anywhere on the internet so far. If anyone knows, I'd appreciate the help.
  9. Installment #12 of my Williams Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  10. Hi all, Here we go again with more C-46 progress and getting close to the end. I'm gonna be glad to be done with it and I'm sure my client will be! Anyhoo, I hope you enjoy this next set of photos. Comments are welcome as always. The True Details vacuform canopy, masked and about ready for installation. I started out intending to use the Eduard mask set as a base, then filling in with blue tape. That proved not to be a good choice, so I switched over to only blue tape. A light touch and a brand new #11 blade is essential to mask a vacuform canopy, but it can be done. And, yes, John, I know one of the windows is too small. That was corrected before installing the canopy. With the canopy installed, the familiar contours of the C-46 become apparent. I still need to finish fairing in the canopy, then go over the entire airframe for a final cleanup before moving it to the paint shop. The photoetch detail that installs on the outside of the wheel will be interfered with by the Scale Aircraft Conversions axle length. All you have to do is use a sprue cutter to nip the axle flush with the wheel, as seen here. On the left is the shortened axle versus the original on the right. The kit struts have a very poor mounting design, basically a butt joint that relies on the other links and yokes to provide the necessary support strength. You'll find the same problem in the SAC metal replacements, which is not their fault. The replacements have to duplicate the kit parts in order to fit the model. However, there is a way to improve things. I used a 1/16" drill bit to create a small depression or dimple in the top of the metal strut, then switched to a 3/64" drill bit to drill a deeper hole. You'll need a Dremel to do the job since the strut's metal makes for very slow progress if you opt for a pin vise. With the hole drilled, I cut a piece of .047" diameter music wire to about 1/2" long. A toothpick was used to place a small amount of BSI IC-2000 CA in the hole and added the wire. It'll take a couple of minutes or thereabouts to set, so keep making an minute adjustments in order to guarantee a vertical alignment. You'll also want to make sure that no CA accumulates above the top of the strut. If it does, remove it before it sets hard. For those who don't know, BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CAs are a private label product. Whoever you buy it from will have their name (hobby shop, hardware store, whatever) on the front, but the label design and product name...IC-2000 in this case...will always be the same. If you want to be sure it's a BSI product, look at the fine print on the back label. I'm finally at a point where I'll be using that second fret of photoetch...or at least most of it. Before adding the wheel photoetch detail, I ran a 1/16" drill bit thru the wheel axle holes and also did a test fit of the metal axles. Satisfied with the results, parts 31 from the second photoetch fret were added to the back of the wheels. On the right is the stock wheel , with the photoetch part installed on the right. Gator's Grip Thin Blend was used here and the operative application word is thin. It doesn't take much Gator's Grip to hold the photoetch and you don't want to use so much that it'll squeeze up thru the perforations. When the photoetch is dry on the back, the wheels were flipped over and parts 27 were added. Installed detail is on the left and stock wheel on the right. You can see in this shot why the metal axles had to be shortened. The stock main gear doors already have some fairly nice detail molded into them, but the addition of parts 23-26 add a lot. Note that these are handed, so pay attention to the photoetch instructions. A kit door is at the photo top with the photoetch enhanced version at the bottom. As with all photoetch detail used for this build, Gator's Grip Thin Blend was relied on for installation. Williams Bros chose not to provide any extra tail wheel doors, instead requiring you to carefully remove the molded-in doors and reuse them. The photoetch fret provides both replacement doors and interior detail in one. At the bottom of this photo is one door as it comes on the fret. When you bend the part along the center line, you get what you see at the top of the photo, a complete door with interior detail. Since the metal props my client provided did not come with shafts of any kind, some had to be created. I had already planned to sleeve the props so they would be removable and the engine inserts had been previously modified for that purpose. So, I used a 1/16" ...or .060" if you prefer...drill bit to enlarge the hole in the back of each prop. Then a 1/2" long piece of .060" brass tubing was inserted using IC-2000 CA. That's it. All that remains is to paint the props and they'll be ready for installation.
  11. Installment #11 of my Williams Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  12. Hey all, Here we go with the next installment. Last time the wing fillets had been puttied and then sanded smooth. Close examination showed a few little pits and cavities that needed attention, so that's were we begin: The starboard wing had the most flaws. Not surprising since it required the most corrective work. The port wing wasn't near the problem. More sanding followed by a light coat of primer and the starboard fillet is finally looking good. Same for the port fillet. Progress! All that's needed for a complete airframe is the canopy and horizontal tails. The port horizontal goes on without a problem. But the starboard horizontal is another questiion. In this case, the horizontal sits about .020" too low, so it needs to be raised. I started by shaving around .020" off the top of the horizontal tab opening. Note that it doesn't have to be perfect. A piece of .020" styrene is added to the BOTTOM of the horizontal mounting tab and trimmed to match the tab shape. Done correctly, it should be a snug fit.,
  13. Installment #10 of my Williams Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  14. Hey all, After time out for Thanksgiving and a visit to the E.R. for pneumonia, I'm back and making more progress on the C-46. Things are beginning to speed up and with any luck at all, it'll be completed and shipped to my client before Christmas. So, let's see where we are: Shown here is the port wing fillet area that's been roughly coated with Squadron White Putty. Believe it or not, it was simply smeared on with my finger. The starboard fillet misfit was the worst one, so a lot more putty was needed. Just as I did with the fuselage centerline, blue painters tape was used to protect the rest of the wings from the sanding I would be doing. More putty on the belly joints and more blue tape to control the sanding area. Finger application was used here as well. After sanding with 320 down to 600 grit, as well as sanding sticks. the starboard fillet is starting to look pretty darn good. And the port wing after the same sanding treatment. Finally the belly seams. It won't be long now before we have a complete aircraft on our hands, except for the landing gear and props, which are waiting in the wings.
  15. Installment #9 of my Williams Bros C-46 build series is now available in the Builds Sub-Forum. Comments welcome as always.
  16. Hello all, Sorry for the delay but I've had to deal with a death in the family (sister-in-law) and an upper respiratory infection. Now, back to the C-46. Once the cowls were mounted on the wing, I used a 3/64" (.095") bit in a pin vise to drill out the prop shaft hole. Then a short piece of .095" brass tubing was installed. Later on I'll create a prop shaft from .0625" (1/16") tubing and end up with removable props. Definitely an aid when it comes to shipping the model. At this point you'd think things were about to pick up speed. Not so. In fact, the worst...and hopefully last...major problem was about to rear its head. When you start to mate the wing assembly to the fuselage is when you discover that the wing stubs integrated with the fuselage halves are not symmetrical. The starboard stub sits several thousandths higher than the port one. While that doesn't sound like much, it makes for major trouble as you're about to see. Align the wing center section with the bottom of the fuselage and the wing/stub joint won't line up. Align the wing/stub joints and the fuselage/wing alignment will be cockeyed...and you'll have major filling to do on the fuselage bottom. I chose to align the wing with the bottom of the fuselage and modify the wing/stub joint. This photo shows the port joint. Believe it or not, this is the better fitting one! The starboard joint is the real nightmare. Worse is the fact that the wing airfoil doesn't follow the airfoil contour of the wing stub. Fortunately that error, which is uncorrectable, won't be noticeable when all's said and done. That gap on the port joint is fairly easily resolved. I shoved a piece of .020" plastic into the gap, outlined the wing contour with a pen, removed the plastic, cut the piece off and reinstalled. Then added a little Squadron White Putty before an extended sanding session. Now for the starboard beast. After filling the gap with plastic, I still had a major step to deal with. I cut a narrow strip of .010" or .015" styrene and glued it down on an angle running from the top of the wing stub to the top of the wing. It's that stage you see in this photo. Then that was followed with multiple applications of solvent slopped on to get the styrene good 'n wet. Then White Putty and more sanding...putty and/or plastic where needed....more sanding...and more sanding...and..... Incidentally, if you're wondering why I'm using Squadron White Putty, it's because it doesn't crack when slightly stressed.
  17. Here's the latest for your viewing pleasure: The kit exhaust pipes left a little to be desired, along with the fact that I would have had to drill them out. So...I planned to replace them with brass tubing. For starters, I drilled out the mounting hole with a 1/16" bit in a pin vise. Note that I angled the bit in order to allow the tubing to fit into the kit's recessed groove. Each of the exhaust pipes was a .30" long piece of 1/16" (or .625") diameter brass tubing. Since no tubing cutter I had on hand would handle tubing that small, I simply scored the tubing with a #11 blade, then snapped the piece using a pair of pliers. In order to avoid having to clean up the cut end, I cut each piece from the finished end of the tubing. Needing four stacks, that approach required two pieces of tubing. Fortunately, tubing that small comes packaged four pieces on a single card. Incidentally, instead of CA for installation, I used Gator's Grip, giving me time for minute adjustments. With the exhaust stacks in place, the cowls were mounted on the wing. Why now instead of later? Because I anticipate problems aligning the wing and the cowls will help get things right. Beyond that, it's easier to get the cowls properly aligned now. Keep in mind that the center section is dead horizontal with the dihedral not starting until you're outboard of the engines. Finally, and probably most important, because of gaps, seams and contour corrections that I would have to deal with, those problems would be a lot easier to handle if the fuselage wasn't in the way, This top view of the cowls after they've been installed. You can see some of the problems I'll have to tackle. With the cowl properly installed, this gap has to be dealt with. There's a slightly smaller, but similar, one on the other cowl. For reasons no one understands, Williams Bros left this flaw in their mold, along with those oddball gaps on the sides of the wing/engine housings. All of this has to be corrected before joining the wing and fuselage. Incidentally, the cowls don't mount to the wing without doing some adjustment to the inside of the cowls. I can't tell you exactly how to do it because it's probably slightly different on each kit. Just keep a knife nearby and do a lot of test fitting. Because of the size of the cowl/wing gap, I glued a piece of .15" x .20" Evergreen strip over the gap, then brushed over it with Same Stuff until it melted down. When dry, I could sand everything smooth. Some areas required small applications of Squadron White Putty, while others would be taken care of with Dupli-Color Sandable Filler & Primer. Of course, various grades of sandpaper and sanding sticks were used as well.
  18. For those who have wondered where I vanished to...particularly my client who has already been informed...and to steal a quote from a Looney Tunes cartoon, I've been sick lately. And frankly, sicker than I ever had any desire to be. I have learned, since the first part of May, that I have severe sleep apnea...but I didn't know it. Sure I snored like mad when sleeping, would go to sleep at the drop of a hat, talked in my sleep and moved around constantly when sleeping. But I always considered that to be normal. Silly me. It wasn't! How I learned about this, in a nutshell, started to become apparent on April 25, 2017. My wife picked my up at church and when I got in the car, I told her to take me to the E.R. What's interesting is the fact I don't remember that...or anything else for the next four or five days. As I've been able to reconstruct things, when I got to the E.R., there was essentially no oxygen to the brain. This resulted in my being intubated and medically sedated for 3 1/2 to 4 days. I got out of the hospital after 8 days. Strangely enough...and thanks to the grace of God...my brain still functioned and there has been little if any brain damage. If you want something that keeps you humble...or that will make you humble if you haven't been...is that fact that most doctors, nurses and P.A.s that I've had contact with since waking up in the hospital keep referring to the fact that my mind still exists and functions normally as a 'miracle' and 'fortunate'. Me? I keep looking up from time to time and saying "Thank you." There is a lot more I could tell you, but the bottom line is that the completion of all of my model commissions have been slowed way down, many of which will end up as builds on this forum and possibly as more detailed ebooks as well. How soon will they all be done and I will back on something approaching a normal schedule? I can't say but I'm working as fast as I can. The C-46 should be the first post-illness project finished, so if everyone just hangs in there, the C-46 should be done in the next couple of months at the latest.