ghodges
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Posts posted by ghodges
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Nice score Ray! Sounds like a good time was had by all.
GIL
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Welcome to the forums Kurt! Glad you're here and I look forward to seeing some of your work.
GIL
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Oooo....old school Petty-mobile! Now THAT'S Nascar (and not those homogenized restrictor plate tubs of today)!
GIL
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Very glad to have you here JL! Ask away! You'll get answers (some helpful, some not). We're here to help as best we can, when you want it. Happy modeling!
GIL
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If they're not available, I'd hold off for a few months to a year. It's such a popular subject, and the artwork is avaialble in smaller scales, so I expect it would be released by someone eventually (famous last words
), unless you want to challenge yourself.GIL
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Hiya Dave! Glad to have another Floridian on board! Hope to see ya at one of the shows here in R-11 (I'll be at Orlando in a ocouple of weeks). Cheers!
GIL
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That's some stellar looking work Peter! Everything looks crisp, clean, and matte. What glue are you using and how do you avoid shiny spots or wet spots in the paper?
GIL
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It can be done even if they're not commercially available....
This is the old Revell 1/32 kit. As I recall (and it was at least 15+yrs ago) I used Frisket paper to make templates for the Hun Hunter XIV name, as well as the "40", and then painted those items onto clear decal sheet. By painting turqouise and black 40s and then overlaying them at an angle, you can make the side codes. The squadron insignia (bird) was hand painted onto clear decal film (multiple tries) and then I used the best effort. The rest of the markings can be painted or taken from the spares box.
I post this just to show that it's not too complicated to do yourself IF there's still no commercially available decals. It's one of my favorite schemes and I also have it in 1/48! Best of luck!
GIL
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The BOXES those kits are in may be 1981 editions, but those Revell 1/28 WWI kits all date from the late 50's/early 60's! Regardless, they're some of the best tooled kits ever produced by Revell, and with the exception of some minor inaccuracies on the Triplane, they're still VERY good builds. Those decals will simply make them all the more unique!
GIL
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I did a quick search and found FOD covers for Phantoms in 1/48 and 1/72, but not in 1/32.
They're not too difficult to build. What style did you want? That might give an idea as to how to advise you on building them yourself.
GIL
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Magnificnet MiG Jeff! The NMF looks just right to me.The Russian stuff always seemed to have a flatter, steelier look to their NMFs; as opposed to the brighter aluminum look on American planes. Thanks for sharing!
GIL
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Ernesto: I'm not sure but I think those decals date from the 1980's. I'd have to delve into my old Updates/Quarterlies to see when they were available.
AHA! I did a little digging through my old Updates (still have EVERY IPMS issue from '77 til now) and found the WWI decal ad as NEW in the spring (Mar/Apr) 1982 Update. They were also still listed on the Special Products ordering form in the Update as late as 1984.
You have some decals there that are closing in on 30yrs old! By the way, Scale Master did 1rst rate work, and the decals (if "mint" as described) should work great!
GIL
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So Ed...how long does it take to airbrush an entire room with an Iwata?
GIL
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Maybe...but I'm not going to rush either build just to do so. Got the gear assembled (but not detailed) for the Esci Kfir. They are NOT well engineered and took a lot of fiddling and the addition of "pins" to position them and check the sit of the model (4+hrs of work just for that). I'll post more pics when I make some significant progress!
GIL
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Those look sweet Dave! Are they plastic, resin, or metal bodies?
GIL
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Welcome Ernie! First, thanks for your years of dedication in law enforcement, keeping us safe! Glad to have you on the forums here with us. Don't know about those "obscure" interests in 1/48 a/c and 1/35 armor though......
Naaah! You'll fit in with the rest of the inmates here in the asylum! Cheers!GIL
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The more you do, the more impressive it becomes!
GIL
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Hmmmm....let's see.......you have more small scale armor built (alone) than my entire stash (@250) and built (@130) combined!
Never apologize Mister! It's a sign of modeling weakness! And you call yourself the "Duke".....
GIL
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I have two projects going: the ESCI/Isracast 1/48 USN F-21 Kfir; and the 1/48 CollectAire resin T-45C Goshawk. Pics of them (though not my workbench) are in the a/c topic area. Cheers!
GIL
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Excellent airbrushing! It's patterns like that one that have dampened my enthusiasm for building more Luftwaffe types. You're off to a great start and I look forward to seeing more progress!
GIL
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Thanks for the kind wrods guys!
Mark: The Kfir will be a US Navy Agressor F-21A which was used in the 80's. The Goshawk will be in the new Yellow Wing scheme just rolled out to celebrate the 100th anniversary of Naval Aviation in 2011.
GIL
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Man, you guys have some MAJOR SKILLS! I've always admired Williams Bros. kits ecause they bothered to put out stuff no one else did. Those are some SWEET builds guys! Thanks for sharing!
GIL
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Well......here it is, 2010 is 3/4s gone and I haven't even started my Trumpy 1/350 Saratoga. Still, I've been having fun building what I have built, so I can't complian! I'll get to it sooner or later, the good Lord willin'!
GIL
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Ten models a day keeps the wife at bay..........
Hey Duke! Your Hienkel's prop looks to be a bit out of balance. Is one blade missing, or will it be in Italian markings and go wop-wop-wop through the air?.........
Lookin' good!GIL
), unless you want to challenge yourself.
Naaah! You'll fit in with the rest of the inmates here in the asylum! 
Cheers!
Lookin' good!
At what point during assembly do you paint?
in Tools, Tips & Techniques
Posted · Edited by ghodges
The answer JL is.....it depends!
You can paint parts while still on the trees (which make holding the part simpler) IF the little nub left where you cut the part from the tree won't show, or you're willing to touch that little area up. You also have to be careful about painting the gluing surfaces of a part on the tree (don't!), or be willing to scrape paint off of those surfaces if you do. Interior parts that will be hard to reach once in place are the best candidates for this.
You must consider whether the part to be painted will need sanding after it's attached in its final position. If it does, it stands to reason much of your painting will be sanded away (wasted time and effort), so its probably best to paint those items after an assembly is sanded and "finished".
Small parts that will be attached near the end of a model build (antennas, landing gear, guns, mirrors, tires, tracks, etc.) can be painted anytime during the project. In fact, those are great taskss to perform while waiting for glue, putty, or a layer of paint to dry. They can be assembled, painted, and set aside until you're ready for them.
Filling and priming should be done before any final color painting occurs. Filling gaps and seams is used to make multi-piece parts look like one part; or to make a gap look like a panel line instead of a seam. Primer coats help you check the quality of your filling/sanding work and can also serve as a even base color to apply your color coats over (as in priming a black plastic car body). You fill, sand, and prime as needed, when needed, as your project progresses.
Don't be afraid to study the instructions and use common sense to vary your building sequences AND painting sequences to fit your situation. Make notes on the instruction sheet as reminders to yourself. There is no one correct way to get the job done, and in fact, it'll vary slightly from project to project! Hope this helps!
GIL