ghodges
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Posts posted by ghodges
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Pardon my ignorance here (a common theme for me!
), but are we mixing up scales here?The original post concerns the 1/32 109E kit. I thought the Profi-pack kits were 1/48? Do both scales of 109Es have the same canopy issues? Or have the issues been solved for one or the other scales, or both? Thanks!
GIL
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That's a great looking Nick! Looks like you've already gotten back on track after your long time off. I still have my Nichimo K-45 on the shelf with no plans to replace it with the "newer" Hasagawa kit. As I recall, I was blown away by the detail and fit of that kit! It was another whole level above most other kits of the 70's, with the exception of some of the Otaki releases.
Congrats on a fine build and thanks for sharing!
GIL
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Oooh, Ooooh........so yer buildin' a 1/32 F-5E?? (Hasagawa?) What scheme are ya gonna put on that thing? Perhaps an agressor camo? I also like the camo on the PBY. Look forward to seeing more Duke!
GIL
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From what I can see in the F-4 picture in your link, the 211 is simply a black #211 with a yellow 211 "shadow". This can be done with those 2 colored numbers. If you can't find regular water slide decals of sheets of numbers (from Superscale, or whoever) in black and yellow, then check out the Woodland Scenics turnstile of decals at the local hobbyshop (in the train section, most likely). These will be dry-transfer decals (rub in place), but they usually have a supply of lettering and numbers in various sizes, colors, and fonts.
All you need to do is find some black and yellow numbers of the same size that are also the right size for the model. Apply the yellow 211 first. Next, OFFSET the black 211 a little forward (towards the nose) and a little bit higher and apply them. The black 211 will cover most of the yellow 211, leaving just enough exposed to create the "shadow". The procedure is the same whether using dry-transfers or waterslide decals (though more tedious and difficult with dry-transfers!). Also, if you use dry-transfers, they need to be sealed with a clear coat to permanently set them in place. Of course, you'll also need to do all of this this for the "VF-92" on both sides too!
If all else fails, put ads in the "looking for/for sale" spaces on this forum and other forums asking for either those numbers and colors, or (if real lucky) the actual decal sheet that provides them. Hope this helps!
GIL
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Very UN-TYPICAL short run kit results! That looks VERY nice! Another excellent build Michael!
GIL
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Thanks Ashley! Good tip!
GIL
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I'm not quite sure what you mean....so I'll just describe how I do mine.
I find it easiest to hold the tire and sand the flat spot by rubbing it across a sanding stick that's lying on my bench. I use a 320grit stick so I can remove material without too much pressure, and then smooth it with a hand-held medium/fine grit stick.
The toughest part to doing this is making sure the flat spot is both FLAT and LEVEL. Just take your time, go slow, and keep visually checking the spot as you "wear" it on. When you're satisfied with the spot, place the tire on a smooth flat surface. It should sit perfectly upright on its own! If it leans, or won't stand upright, then you need to adjust the angle of the flat spot.
Work each tire independently, but compare the sizes of the spots on each. The main tires should have the same size flat spots, which ensures they'll both be at the same height when you put them on the model. The same would go for nose tires, though their flat spots would be correspondingly smaller due to the smaller tire size.
Here's a link to the tires/gear for the Goshawk I'm currently building. If you look closely, you can see the flat spots sanded on all of the tires.
http://forum.ipmsusa3.org/index.php?showto...20&start=20
Hope that helps! Practice on some old tires from the spares box before tackling that prize project! Cheers!
GIL
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I just use any brand cotton swab. Why do you need wooden handle swabs? If you're looking for wooden handles for small parts (etc.), I suggest round wooden toothpicks. They're readily available and cheap. If you need larger or longer thin wooden handles, try looking for bamboo skewers or chopsticks in the cooking ware aisle of your local market. Cheers!
GIL
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Wow! That realy "pops! That's an absolutely beautiful NMF. What did you use? Also, are the stripes decal or paint? Last of all, what kit and what scale? Congrats on a great build and thanks or posting!
GIL
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I'll be contrary....I say flatten them a LITTLE.
Just sand a flat spot on the bottom. Sand a very small flat spot for those high pressure jet tires and a larger spot for WWII types. The idea is to give an impression of weight, without deforming the tire. If you're using an aftermarket resin tire, sand down the bulges on the sides so that they're barely visible, as most of them are overdone.
There's no requirement or expectation to do this for a contest. You don't get gigged if you don't do it (but you COULD be giged if it's overdone!).
Part of building an attractive model is artistic. You can argue about the accuracy of a feature all day long (such as panel lines in small scales). However, at the end of the day, if it looks right, it IS right! If it looks authentic, it will add to the presentation of the model. I think slightly flattened tires add to the overall impression of authenticity. Just my 2 drachmas!
GIL
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Here's a link to a review of the Quick Boost resin FOD covers for the F-4...
http://www.arcair.com/Rev4/3301-3400/rev33...t-32089/00.shtm
Hope this helps!
GIL
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Looking good Duke! I can't remember WHY I delved into 1/72, but for some reason I too built that F-86 and had the same problems with the kit decals. They were too thick and inflexible. I ended up getting the model done, but it was purely a case of me deciding I was going to BEAT it into submission if need be. I don't have it any more, so perhaps I did beat it to death and bury it in the yard.......
For some reason, the rest of that build has been forgotten (or mentally blocked) .GIL
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Finally made some important progress on the stinkin' kit canopy....
On the clear sheet above you can see the kit supplied vac canopies that are intended to be put into the metal canopy frame individually. I test fit one of them; NO WAY!! So I filled the kit metal frame with plumbers epoxy putty and sanded it to shape to make a master for a one-piece canopy. The result is on the right, with the addition of some strip plastic to establish the frame interior. This took several attempts as the part maxes out the area on my old Mattel vac machine. Now I just have to find a way to do the det-cord........Questions, comments, and critiques welcome! Cheers!
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Oh, they'll DO a DH-4! It fits their theme perfectly. They just may have to work their way to it.....
GIL
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That's a cool looking paint scheme. Are you building it OOTB, or have you added some interior details?
GIL
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1/72? Impressive paint job!
GIL
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He shoots- HE SCORES!! That's a sweet Spad XIII! I wouldn't worry about the figure....they give me fits too. But, I fugure (pun intended) if I bothered to practice I could improve on it, but then that would take away time to build more aircraft! Nice biplane, and a great job on the assembly. Those multi-bay "square rigged" bipanes are tough! Congrats, and thanks for sharing!
GIL
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Absolutely a top-notch company! Their business model of skipping the wholesaler and hobbyshops and selling direct just might be the wave of the future, especially if it holds prices down. The fact that this company can produce such wonderfully engineered, detailed, and well-fitting kits right from their first release onwards makes you wonder why the other companies have so much trouble getting things right. I just wish they'd expand into the 20's-30's era of Golden Age biplanes! Cheers!
GIL
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Very resourceful!
GIL
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I really don't recall any significant problems, so it must have been reasonably floggable...
; but then again your talkin' to a guy who regularly whips on vacs and resin kits, so my perspective might be a bit warped! My overall memory is that it was a fun build and the decals went down great!
GIL
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I do like foil, and it would work as Ed has suggested. The problems I have are:
1) I have a DEVIL of a time getting the foil off of the backing sheet. Any tips on a sure fire method other than the tedious and careful application of the tip of a new #11 blade?
2) I also have a DEVIL of a time getting the foil peeled off of the sheet in pieces/lengths long enough/big enough to use without it tearing. Any hints on how to prevent that?
Thanks!
GIL
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What's that sound I hear?...........Oh yea, it's the groaning of all of the Nippoholics!
Looks good to me James! More importantly, you got the handle on a new technique which will come in handy down the road. The Hamp is my favorite Zero! Congrats on another nice build!
GIL
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As tedious as it is, you need to airbrush the lips. I suggest Alclad II Chrome. It MUST be sprayed over gloss black/dark blue enamel. It's maskable, so you can paint it first or last depending on the color of the engine pods.
If your pods are black or a very dark blue, you can paint the pods as normal and then mask off the lips and apply the Chrome last.
If the pods are white or another light color, then you can paint the gloss black (let dry thoroughly), paint the Chrome, and then mask off the lips. After that, spray a coat of silver or aluminum on the pods to get rid of any black/chrome overspray; and then paint the pod color.
I've found that Tamiya tape cut into VERY thin strips works very well. The Chrome is pretty tough, but low tack tapes are the way to go. Hope this helps!
Here's an example of how nice and bright the Alclad II Chrome is. It was painted directy over the gloss blue pods. Cheers!
GIL
), but are we mixing up scales here?
For some reason, the rest of that build has been forgotten (or mentally blocked) 
.
; but then again your talkin' to a guy who regularly whips on vacs and resin kits, so my perspective might be a bit warped! 
Zero A6M2
in Aircraft
Posted
Me likey too!
That's a nice kit and you did a bang-up job on it. Thanks for sharing!
GIL