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Everything posted by TheRealMrEd

  1. Thanks folks, glad you enjoyed them. Ed
  2. Plugging away on my Lockheed collection, I found that I lacked a P-80A. While researching the build, I found that the Sword P-80A/B kit had a definite error that needed correction. For that whole story (and cure), the build thread is over on BritModeler HERE For those just mildly curious, here are the pics: Thanks for looking, Ed
  3. Another tip is, after masking, gently wipe the unmasked areas with a tiny Q-tip (not the regular kind -- they might shed -- moistened with drug store alcohol. Also, try to always use a primer, under the paint. I use the Alclad II White, Gray, and Black Primers. Of course, when you have to use something like interior green or so, you may try the technique of masking the inside of the canopy, and shooting that color, after priming, on the inside, and painting the outside with it's own primer/paint layers. I do this on 1/72 scale models all the time. On quarter scale and up, it should be duck soup! Masking Inside The Canopy Ed
  4. Another vote for invisible thread! The hardest part, is drilling all the very tiny holes! After that, I secure the anchor end with a tiny drop of CA cement. After that dries, I pull the length of thread (cut excessively long) through the hole in let's say the wing. I then put tension on the thread, using a tiny alligator clip, etc. (Fly-tying hackle pliers work great for this!). Sometimes I have to put something, like a box or paint bottle, against the model while I tension the thread, just enough to pull it taut. Then I apply another drop of CA where the thread exits the top or bottom of the wing. When dry, trim closely, sand if needed, and touch up the paint. I usually paint the wings first, but leave off the decals. Then I rig, then touch up or over-spray the top of the top, and bottom of the bottom, wings... Start with something simple, like a Stearman, before tackling the giant bombers! Best of luck, Ed
  5. Avery pretty aircraft -- well done! Ed
  6. You mean the TBY-2 Sea Wolf? It was challenging to get a lot of the piece to fit, masking the clear areas, and other stuff as mentioned in the build thread. Iw as not a snap togther! Ed
  7. Well, time for the usual year-end roundup. 2021 has been an odd year, but I got some more done: First up, the 1/72 F4H-1 Phantom Prototype conversion, using no aftermarket parts: A few challenges, but worth it. For those interested, more pics HERE which will then link to the build thread proper. Same process will be repeated for all the models... Next up, the Curtiss A-18 Shrike resin build: More pics HERE Next, the F3H-1N DEMON conversion: More pics HERE Next, the Lockheed YF-97/YF-94C kitbash/conversion: More pics HERE Next up, the diminutive XF-85 Goblin: Build thread HERE Next, Lt Guy Bordelon's F4U-5N Corsair night fighter, all gussied up with aftermarket goodies: More pics h Next, LF Model P-30 resin kit: More pics HERE Next the P-26 Peashooter, also all gussied up with aftermarket: More pics HERE Next up the Lockheed YF-94D conversion, my personal favorite: More pics HERE Next, the Lockheed T-33 Twin-Tail conversion, also called the TV-2: Build thread HERE Next the Platz Shiny T-33 squadron hack: ore pics HERE Next up, the resin Consolidated TBY-2 Sea Wolf: More pics HERE And finally, the last and most difficult of the year, the Lockheed XP-80 conversion in the garb of it's initial flight: More pics HERE All in all, a challenging but rewarding year, whittling down the bucket list a bit! Thanks for looking and a great New Year to everyone! Ed Quote "Dispensing the Tribal Wisdom since 1944" 05:47
  8. As usual, I waited a long time for this model, hoping someone else would jump in, etc. etc. No one else did, so I did, and here is something you won't often see, the YF-94D, which was actually a converted YF-94C in an earlier life. This aircraft was going to be a ground-bashing version of the F-94 series, but that never really got off the ground. This plane and it's single sister ship were used to test the M-61 Gatling gun and 20mm cannon. When these tasks were completed, they were seconded by the Air Force to the Mass ANG for use as trainers. For those interested, the build thread and art work are HERE The pics of old "Pinocchi-nose": Hope that you enjoyed looking as much as I enjoyed adding this bird to the collection. As usual, while not perfect nor excruciatingly detailed, it's a lot better than the one I had before... Ed
  9. Here's something very similar, an F-94A I built from a T-33 kit, decades ago, the same way that one was built: This was way before any F-94B kits came out... Ed
  10. Thanks guys, I just love this P-80, T-33, F-94, etc. jet family. Hope to build one of each type, if I last that long! Ed
  11. Adding another of those odd little models to the collection, may I present the Lockheed YF-97, later known as the YF-94C. I've never seen one built, so I decided to give it a shot... For those who might be interested, the build thread for this model is HERE Without further ado, the pics: A fairly simply conversion. I hope you'll try one yourselves! Thanks for looking in, Ed Quote "Dispensing the Tribal Wisdom since before there WAS a Tribe!"
  12. Thanks guys! Some of these old "hangers-on" are worthy of completion -- we just gotta get up the gumption to get 'em done... Ed
  13. Number 3 for 2021 is a conversion I started right after the Emhar kit first came out, which then rested on the Shelf of Doom ever since. Here's one for the Gipper: For those who might be interested, the build thread is HERE I am posting the final pics of the model: This model was on the Shelf Of Doom since shortly after the kit came out (2004?), and I'm glad to have finally bitten the bullet, and now have it to add to the collection. I hope some of you out there will give one a try! Ed
  14. For those interested, the build thread is HERE Here are a few finished pictures, of a model that I've always wanted, built by kit-bashing a 1/72 Hasegawa F4B/N Phantom II kit, that eventually used NO aftermarket parts, NO resin parts, and NO vacuformed parts. I only used the parts in the Hasegawa box, some decals from the spares box, and of course, some decals printed on my inkjet printer at home. I should mention here that all the needed artwork is provided in the build thread, free for any NON-Commercial use, if you would care to try one yourself. The pictures: Give one a try -- you'll like it! Thanks for looking, Ed
  15. It comes up now and then, whether it is possible to duplicate vac-u-formed canopies. The answer is yes! I will show you how I do it. First off, the canopy you wish to replicate has to be closed at both ends. If it has already been cut out of it's plastic sheet, you are going to have to devise a way to make it hold a runny sort of product. One way might be to glue plastic pieces to the part that needs to be sealed off, using a glue such as G-S cement, which can later be dissolved with 91% rubbing alcohol, without harming the plastic. BEWARE -- THIS METHOD WILL NOT WORK ON ANY SORT OF "UNDERCUT" CANOPY!!! -- but then, I don't think the vacuform process would either! Next, I dip the canopy into a paper cup full of Future or Pledge or whatever it is now, wherever you are. I do this twice, dipping into the cup, holding the part with tweezers, and allowing to dry on a paper towel for an hour or so between coats. After each dip, I pour the left-over Future/Pledge back into the bottle, then place the now empty paper cup upside down over the canopy, while it dries, to deter any dust. The reason for the Future is twofold. First, to help make certain that the surface of the cast part will be smooth, and also because later on, if the casting doesn't want to come out of the canopy (mold), you can dissolve the Future with Windex with Ammonia D, as it is now called. Don't know why that call it that, but they do. You can also use plain or diluted ammonia, but it will smell really bad! Anyway, except for the Future and ammonia product, our needs are simple: The canopy we wish to copy, and a can of Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty. What it was used for originally, I don't know, but it works great for this. I got mine at Home Depot, you mileage may vary.. I just dump some of the Durham's fine powder into a plastic cup, then add a few drops of water, and stir with a cocktail stick. The stuff stirs much like Plaster of Paris, but dries harder (and yellow). You want to mix it until it has a consistency somewhere between chocolate syrup, and pudding. That is, you don't want it too runny, as it will take forever to be dry (and be weak), but also, you don't want it to be so stiff that you have to scoop it into the mold (canopy). Fortunately, it's cheap enough to experiment with! Anyway, just make sure that your canopy will hold water, but your putty mix is more like pudding... Next, mix up the putty and pour it into the mold (canopy). Make certain that the canopy is level. I usually make sure to fill the canopy a bit above level, as the putty will shrink slightly as it settles. I also run a cocktail stick back and forth, to make sure that no bubbles are left against the canopy surface. Getting the right consistency will go a long way toward that goal. Here is what mine looks like, after drying, usually about two or three days: Usually, the Durham's will just pop out with a tiny bit of prying, preferably in an area that is not critical, as the stuff WILL scratch. If not, here is where the Windex D is your friend. Run a few drops along the edge between the canopy and the Durham's, and after a few seconds, you should be able to pop it right out. Lastly, the finished product: Note that any fine rough edges (arrow) can be sanded right off, and the bottom can be sanded flat, if need be. Note the perfectly smooth surface of the molded part, which is of course, a perfect copy from the inside of the canopy, so that after you vacuform it, should create a copy perfect to use -- plastic thickness being about the same as the original copy. If there is a little Durham's residue on the original canopy that you copied, again, the Windex D and a toothbrush will get it right off! Duck Soup, as they say... Now, where did I put that Vac-u-former? Ed
  16. Hello again, seems like only a few days ago that I was writing up last year's build log. Time flies! But, I was determined to make the best of this rather trying year... Anyway, here are this years completed models, although a couple were shelf queens from yesteryear. First up, the Lift Here Models Piper PA-58 -- last of the Mustangs: For those interested, the build thread is HERE Next up, the first Great Blue Whale, the XA3D-1 conversion of the Hasegawa A3B: XA3D-1 Build Thread HERE Next up, the Wingnuts Models XP-72 resin kit: XP-72 Build Thread HERE Next up, a more ambitious project, the kit-bash of the Academy P-47D Razorbaxk into the XP-47B prototype: XP-47B Build Thread HERE Next up, another resin kit, the LF Models Curtiss XP-42, a variation of the P-36/P-40 family: XP-42 Build Thread HERE Next, another LF Models resin kit, this time the Curtiss XP-31 Swift: More XP-31 Photos HERE XF-91 Build Thread HERE Another resin kit, this time the Anigrand Bell XP-83: XP-83 Build Thread HERE And last one for the year, a kit-bash of the Academy P-47D Razorback into an XP-47J Superbolt: XP-47J Build Thread HERE Not a lot of models this year, but some welcome additions to the collection. For those interested, the pertinent articles contain custom artwork that you are free to use for any non-commercial purpose. Thanks for looking, Ed Quote "Dispensing the Tribal Wisdom since before there WAS a Tribe!"
  17. Here's link to an article on casting clear resin canopies that might contain useful information HERE using pressure casting only. I built my pressure pot from an old paint pot for under $100.00, but I had the pressure guage and a couple other parts laying about. I built mine for either pressure and vacuum casting, but since pulling my first pressure cast out, I have never used vacuum again... The are videos on-line about how to convert these paint pots (or pressure cookers), or I can post a link to mine if anyone is interested. Ed
  18. Buy a pack of acupuncture needles on-line. They are fine enough that if you have a small enough drill bit, they will work fine in .5 mm plastic rod. I always start there tiny holes with the sharp pont of a #11 Exacto blade. Ed
  19. For those who might be interested, recently completed article and pics of scratch build/kit bash of Academy P-47D into an XP-47J Superbolt are HERE: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235084455-172-xp-47j-superbolt-kit-bash/&tab=comments#comment-3928384 Thanks for looking, Ed
  20. For many years, I hoped that some of the resin guru's would produce an XP-47B Prototype fore me. No one did, so I finally got off my hind parts and got 'er done... For those interested, the build thread is HERE for those who might want to give it a try. And last, a comparison: Thanks for looking, Ed
  21. I use a piece of hard plastic sprue, sanded to a chisel point, and I haven't hard to re-sharpen, as with toothpicks. ED
  22. Yeah Richard, I remember sitting around back then mixing 23 parts Testor's white to 1 part red to get a flesh tone to paint aircrew figures! As I said before, we will survive! However, does anyone know of a good paint source for sage green as in 50's USAF flight suits? Ed
  23. Plus bunches on the True North paint. Just received some more in the mail today, to back up some running-out-of MM bottles from the stash. I built models way before MM came about, (but not before the Testor's square bottles!) and did just fine. We will survive. What kills me is all the great American brands who were kings in their day, but who are fading fast or gone -- Sears, Penneys, Revell, Monogram, etc. all of whom forgot to dance with who brung 'em and tried to get too big for their britches. How the mighty have fallen! Ed
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