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jinx46

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Everything posted by jinx46

  1. The link below is to the home page: http://modelstories.free.fr/index.html Explore the site as it is rich in many kinds of material, lists of new kits (Nouveautes in French), etc... There are many walk arounds also....
  2. Ron, Your model looks every nice indeed. I had made the old Frog one, which was motorised. I still have its props and motors. And my cousin had made the oiginal and very old Airfix one. The Hasegawa is probably the best of all as it is newer.
  3. The Bristol Bombay is a kit I want to make badly. Valom has announced a 72nd scale model--if you google Valom Bombay you will find it.
  4. One more profile will be uploaded in the future...
  5. I was wondering if anyone has made a Bristol beaufighter in 72nd scale and what the kit used was. Today I played around with flightsimulator (FSX), took screenshots of Dave Garwood's Beau and made some color profiles using Photoshop from the flight sim screenies. I attach them here. The singanture Serge Birkin is a pseudonym I often use in my art work. Regards, Nick from Greece
  6. I was wondering if anyone has made a Bristol beaufighter in 72nd scale and what the kit used was. Today I played around with flightsimulator (FSX), took screenshots of Dave Garwood's Beau and made some color profiles using Photoshop from the flight sim screenies. I attach them here. The singanture Serge Birkin is a pseudonym I often use in my art work. Regards, Nick from Greece
  7. Sounds like good advice. I have taped decals on the inside of the window that has the most sunlight in my house. The old Forg Wildcat decals was a case in point, 25 years later my model with the sun-exposed decals looks like new. :blu-plane: But Frog had top quailty varnishes, thanks to Richard Ward of MODELDECAL fame who is now doing the Airfix decals of our day... I live in Greece, where it is sunny 355 days a year, so sunlight is ample here. In a week the job is done. I never thought of windows sweat, but Athens has a dry cilmate, but that is an extra precaution I will take in the future. One always learns... In this case I will stick a thick card frame on the window with tape, leave space, say 3-5 mm, and tape the decal sheet to the four frames of the card frame. to ensure the decals do not contact the window glass. Coating with some acrylic varnish by airbrush can help against possible disintegration, but try it first on unwanted decal sections and see the effect. Varnishes, like colors, are weird and mysterious creatures and with so many brands around they tend to have different properties & effects on decals.
  8. Thanks for the information. Humbrol enamels yellow with time--the old series of colors. Their new acrylics range does not. May of my models have yellowed because of the old Humbrols. Later I started using Gunze Sangyol Acrylics and thir varnishes and those are ok. Now almost everyone here is using Vallejo acrylics or Andrea Acrylics or the new Humbrol acrylics--some of those also come in handy spray bottles.
  9. Very nice work. I am building one too, started 3 years ago and sitting in a box awaiting completion.... At the moment I am building a Matilda tank in this scale and superdetailing the interior. Tke it is Italeri 1/72nd and is an ex-Esci kit, one of their best, reboxed.
  10. Clare, I think it is the original ABT document because: First, there is a photo of the original Air Force service document at the top, with the fold-out chips on the right, and second, the text says "base sur un nuancier original", which means "based on an original nuancier", and therefore this is not the original,but the ABT reproduction of the chips. Teintes means tints in French, "nuancier" means shade variations in free translation (nuance in English is from the same root word, Latin origin). So you are right in your suspicion. Still, it is very useful afor mother modellers and restorers of aircraft and today I will call Roger in Normandy and ask about details for the chamois colour relating to the landing gear and report my findings. He may have meant the gear wells were painted it chamois and I may have misunderstood... Cheers Nick
  11. Sorry to bother, but I am new here and I cannot figure out a way to get email notifications. I tick the "Follow this topic?" box each time, visible at upper righthand side when I type this. Is that it, or is there something else? Nick from Athens, Greece
  12. jinx46

    RAF uniforms 1

    The painting in the link is mine. Original is A4 size paper, painted sketch first with pencil and used watercolor first and then gouaches over it. Painted in 1994. It shows John A. Kent in early WWII--note helmet, goggles, lifejcket and other details. You can google his name--he was a Canadian ace pilot serving in the RAF... http://s1184.beta.ph...html?sort=3&o=1 When you click on the link, at the bottom you will see more of my portraits, or just click the right and left arrows.... Nick
  13. Fine work The Mk I Spit would look better if the demarcation line between the dark earth and dark green on the uppers were not as pronounced. Thanks for sharing. Nick
  14. Stefanwest, Nice work here too, I have the old 1970 Airfix Skyhawk, from the dark ages of modelling. This one is many times better, as I see. By the way, what brand and type colors and varnishes do you use?
  15. Stefanwest, Nice work. I esp. like the clean demarcation line between the red and yellow. With decals, I usually cut one off from the unwanted ones and testi it after dipping it in water and trying to apply it to an old kit surface and. if it comes apart I spray the whole sheet in acrylic gloss or satin clear, wait for for an hour or so and then apply the decals. I had this problem with a Heller 1/125 Concorde recently, where the decals disintegrated into many small pieces--a nightmare. I botched it up in the end, but I did not really mind as the model was made for a travel agent's desk near me and he paid me 50 euros for the work. I made it gear closed and on a wire cota hanger base I bent which went to a hole in its belly. Cheers Nick from Greece
  16. Wonderful work stafanwest. I am not familar with "silly" putty, nieither am I with "clever" one. Does not exist in Greece where I live. What is it?
  17. Nice work Mark. It might be worth trying to make canopy frames from thin tape painted first with the appropriate color and then cut off with a steel ruler on a glass surface (I use a thick piece of crsytal glass 30 cm long by 5 cm narrow) or even with a razor blade of the kind our fathers used 40 years ago. Successive passes of the blade or model knife (X-acto no 111 balde or other) against the ruler, without too much pressure, will give you a clean cut if you do not hurry it. Once glued to the clear canopy on the frame, you can cut off the excess top and bottom with the same traditional razor blade easily, going carefully and at an angle that points the blade to the outer or inner side of the frame, depending on the frame location. For example, if you were to cut the tape on the port side first frame, where it separates the side window from the windshiled, hold the blade so that the cutting side is forward and the rear side back towards the rear of the aircraft. That will ensure no cut slips on the side window. Experiment first with an old useless canopy and test masking-tape frames and the use of the blade on them to get the hanf of it. Unclear plastic will also do for this kind of training. Glass cutters have left over pieces of glass they throw away. Check the area stores-the ones that sell glass cut to size for windows... Good luck. Nick from Athens, Greece...
  18. I hope the link below works: http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/jninxnick/media/Profiles-Plans/venomcm3.jpg.html?sort=3&o=39#/user/jninxnick/media/Profiles-Plans/venomcm3.jpg.html?sort=3&o=39&_suid=135983859183401840592754927976
  19. There is a great painter by the name of Howard Terpning. Google and get to his site and you will get many ideas for Indian figures. Good luck.
  20. This post of mine appears twice on my webpage. Could a moderator please delete the 2nd entry?
  21. ClareWentzel, I know and you are right. How can I pm you or email you and send you the original image so you can upload it properly for me? That would take care of it for the time being.
  22. Thanks ClareWentzel, I am tyring to correct the image fault, just uploaded it to google and will try and give a link. Can some delete the other post of the same name of mine, please, as it somehow appears twice for me.
  23. Hello friends, I am posting an image which shows the real document that was sent to the French Air Force units for painting their aircraft. The document says 1940, but I assume these colors held true until 1945 at least. It was sent to me by a French friend, Roger, who now is an advisor for Heller, a company that has relaunched and will bring out fine kits. A few notes may be of interest: The color "chamois" was used on landing gear legs. The color "bleu nuit mat" was used for the interior of cockpits. Roger told me it on the phone it was almost black. My advice is to paint it a couple of shades lighter, for scale effect. I have uploaded the image to Photobucket. I will post the name of the site I got it from (if this is allowed) as it has tons of good stuff, color profiles, photos, rare old photos, and lots of things I have yet to discover myself. The link is here: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9fOqHNsXt0Y/UQ10ZP59nME/AAAAAAAAACA/20gTKlyT5Mg/s144-c/February22013.jpg I would like to add here that I posted this in a model forum in my country and they moved the color chips image to a post where a guy was asking for the color of cockpit inteirors, as a token of their isupreme ntelligence, thus depriving thieir members of the chance to spot the topic and the color chips, which I find of great use. I also find I cannot post or modify my posts in that forum for two days now. It might be a temporary ban, though I did nothing to insult them. I live in Greece but have studied in Portland, Oregon in the U.S. Best Regards Nick
  24. Hello friends, I am posting an image which shows the real document that was sent to the French Air Force units for painting their aircraft. The document says 1940, but I assume these colors held true until 1945 at least. It was sent to me by a French friend, Roger, who now is an advisor for Heller, a company that has relaunched and will bring out fine kits. A few notes may be of interest: The color "chamois" was used on landing gear legs. The color "bleu nuit mat" was used for the interior of cockpits. Roger told me it on the phone it was almost black. My advice is to paint it a couple of shades lighter, for scale effect. I have uploaded the image to Photobucket. I will post the name of the site I got it from (if this is allowed) as it has tons of good stuff, color profiles, photos, rare old photos, and lots of things I have yet to discover myself. The link is here: http://mobmg.photobu...pg?t=1359831291 This second link below will give you a better view of the whole image, I hope: "Pour les couleurs camouflage fran├žais 1940" is what Roger wrote in his email to me. It means "For French 1940 camouflage colors" http://memorial.flig...r/nuancier.html Now if you search the links upwards and downwards on that web page you shall find many useful things, color chips, photos of real a/c, walkarounds, old photos, etc etc. I speak, read and write French, so it is easier for me but I think many will manage the tour with success. Click on "Home" at the bottom right of page and start from theire.... Good luck! I would like to add here that I posted this in a model forum in my country and they moved the color chips image to a post where a guy was asking for the color of cockpit inteirors, as a token of their isupreme ntelligence, thus depriving thieir members of the chance to spot the topic and the color chips, which I find of great use. I also find I cannot post or modify my posts in that forum for two days now. It might be a temporary ban, though I did nothing to insult them. I live in Greece but have studied in Portland, Oregon in the U.S. Best Regards Nick NB My first-link image shows half of what it is and I will try to upload it elsewhere and add a new link later to this post. Sorry for the bug...
  25. I have the Revell 1/720 USS ENTERPRISE CARRIER, and I need to make decals for all the stripes and lines on the flight deck. The kit does not supply them. Any ideas or suggestions? I have heard that one can buy clear decal sheet, make them in the computer with a graphics editor program like Photoshop, test print for size and then print on the clear decal film. Has anyone ever tried this or perhaps some other method. One obvious way would be to mask and paint, but the yellow and orange dotted lines around the elevators would be a nightmare to mask and paint, as would most of the rest deck strips and stripes. Thanks
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