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jinx46

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  • FirstName
    Nick
  • LastName
    Tselepides
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS GREECE
  • City
    Athens
  • State
    Greece
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Painting in oils and watercolors, modelling of all kinds, reading and languages ( I speak 6 of those). I live in Athens, Greece.
  1. The link below is to the home page: http://modelstories.free.fr/index.html Explore the site as it is rich in many kinds of material, lists of new kits (Nouveautes in French), etc... There are many walk arounds also....
  2. Ron, Your model looks every nice indeed. I had made the old Frog one, which was motorised. I still have its props and motors. And my cousin had made the oiginal and very old Airfix one. The Hasegawa is probably the best of all as it is newer.
  3. The Bristol Bombay is a kit I want to make badly. Valom has announced a 72nd scale model--if you google Valom Bombay you will find it.
  4. One more profile will be uploaded in the future...
  5. I was wondering if anyone has made a Bristol beaufighter in 72nd scale and what the kit used was. Today I played around with flightsimulator (FSX), took screenshots of Dave Garwood's Beau and made some color profiles using Photoshop from the flight sim screenies. I attach them here. The singanture Serge Birkin is a pseudonym I often use in my art work. Regards, Nick from Greece
  6. I was wondering if anyone has made a Bristol beaufighter in 72nd scale and what the kit used was. Today I played around with flightsimulator (FSX), took screenshots of Dave Garwood's Beau and made some color profiles using Photoshop from the flight sim screenies. I attach them here. The singanture Serge Birkin is a pseudonym I often use in my art work. Regards, Nick from Greece
  7. Sounds like good advice. I have taped decals on the inside of the window that has the most sunlight in my house. The old Forg Wildcat decals was a case in point, 25 years later my model with the sun-exposed decals looks like new. :blu-plane: But Frog had top quailty varnishes, thanks to Richard Ward of MODELDECAL fame who is now doing the Airfix decals of our day... I live in Greece, where it is sunny 355 days a year, so sunlight is ample here. In a week the job is done. I never thought of windows sweat, but Athens has a dry cilmate, but that is an extra precaution I will take in the future. One always learns... In this case I will stick a thick card frame on the window with tape, leave space, say 3-5 mm, and tape the decal sheet to the four frames of the card frame. to ensure the decals do not contact the window glass. Coating with some acrylic varnish by airbrush can help against possible disintegration, but try it first on unwanted decal sections and see the effect. Varnishes, like colors, are weird and mysterious creatures and with so many brands around they tend to have different properties & effects on decals.
  8. Thanks for the information. Humbrol enamels yellow with time--the old series of colors. Their new acrylics range does not. May of my models have yellowed because of the old Humbrols. Later I started using Gunze Sangyol Acrylics and thir varnishes and those are ok. Now almost everyone here is using Vallejo acrylics or Andrea Acrylics or the new Humbrol acrylics--some of those also come in handy spray bottles.
  9. Very nice work. I am building one too, started 3 years ago and sitting in a box awaiting completion.... At the moment I am building a Matilda tank in this scale and superdetailing the interior. Tke it is Italeri 1/72nd and is an ex-Esci kit, one of their best, reboxed.
  10. Clare, I think it is the original ABT document because: First, there is a photo of the original Air Force service document at the top, with the fold-out chips on the right, and second, the text says "base sur un nuancier original", which means "based on an original nuancier", and therefore this is not the original,but the ABT reproduction of the chips. Teintes means tints in French, "nuancier" means shade variations in free translation (nuance in English is from the same root word, Latin origin). So you are right in your suspicion. Still, it is very useful afor mother modellers and restorers of aircraft and today I will call Roger in Normandy and ask about details for the chamois colour relating to the landing gear and report my findings. He may have meant the gear wells were painted it chamois and I may have misunderstood... Cheers Nick
  11. Sorry to bother, but I am new here and I cannot figure out a way to get email notifications. I tick the "Follow this topic?" box each time, visible at upper righthand side when I type this. Is that it, or is there something else? Nick from Athens, Greece
  12. jinx46

    RAF uniforms 1

    The painting in the link is mine. Original is A4 size paper, painted sketch first with pencil and used watercolor first and then gouaches over it. Painted in 1994. It shows John A. Kent in early WWII--note helmet, goggles, lifejcket and other details. You can google his name--he was a Canadian ace pilot serving in the RAF... http://s1184.beta.ph...html?sort=3&o=1 When you click on the link, at the bottom you will see more of my portraits, or just click the right and left arrows.... Nick
  13. Fine work The Mk I Spit would look better if the demarcation line between the dark earth and dark green on the uppers were not as pronounced. Thanks for sharing. Nick
  14. Stefanwest, Nice work here too, I have the old 1970 Airfix Skyhawk, from the dark ages of modelling. This one is many times better, as I see. By the way, what brand and type colors and varnishes do you use?
  15. Stefanwest, Nice work. I esp. like the clean demarcation line between the red and yellow. With decals, I usually cut one off from the unwanted ones and testi it after dipping it in water and trying to apply it to an old kit surface and. if it comes apart I spray the whole sheet in acrylic gloss or satin clear, wait for for an hour or so and then apply the decals. I had this problem with a Heller 1/125 Concorde recently, where the decals disintegrated into many small pieces--a nightmare. I botched it up in the end, but I did not really mind as the model was made for a travel agent's desk near me and he paid me 50 euros for the work. I made it gear closed and on a wire cota hanger base I bent which went to a hole in its belly. Cheers Nick from Greece
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