Mark Deliduka Posted November 13, 2008 Report Posted November 13, 2008 It took along time, but I finally finished something. It's not quite as finished as I'd like it to be, but I fought the silvering decals for as long as I could and I'm tired of it. So, I went ahead and weathered it and I'm calling it done. This is my 1/72 scale UM Su-100M Self Propelled Gun: I painted it with Testor's Dark Green, airbrushed over it. The I shot a faint buff color over it and then used Tank Rat's weathering powders to finish it. Thanks for looking, comments are welcome.
Ron Bell Posted November 13, 2008 Report Posted November 13, 2008 I fight that same battle with silvered decals in this scale as well. One solution I've found works well for smaller decals. I make a small puddle of Future and then soak the decal off the backing sheet. I remove the decal from the backing with fine pointed tweezers, and touch the edge to a damp paper towel to remove excess water. I then float the decal on the Future to coat the 'down' side. Try not to get Future on the upper side. Pick it back up and touch the edge to the damp paper towel again to remove excess Future. Place the decal in its appropriate location. I try to arrange the model so the surface the decal is on is level so the Future stays behind the decal and does not run or collect at the botom/top or where ever. At this point, either leave it alone for quite a while so the Future dries (hours because its under the decal) or you can add decal setting solution as a drop over the decal and then leave it alone. Don't touch it as the Future will get sticky in a bit and you risk lifting the decal or worse. The Future dries and fills the area under the decal and eliminates silvering. It dries very thin, so the decal blends in as usual. If you still get some silvering on the edges or in bumps or bubbles, take a fine pointed brush and dip it in some Future and touch it to the offending edges so the Future runs behind the decal. For bumps etc, prick them with a pin or slit them with an exacto, and add the Future. This works well with smaller decals, but can be pretty tricky with larger ones and not at all with large ones. But in 72 scale, it works just fine.
Mark Deliduka Posted November 13, 2008 Author Report Posted November 13, 2008 Thanks Ron. That is he next technique I will try. Not this model though, I'm declaring it finished and letting it sit on the shelf. I have several other UM models I will try this on. Thank you again.
Mike Lindsey Posted November 13, 2008 Report Posted November 13, 2008 Seems like another excellent representation in this scale. Well done. Mike
Mark Deliduka Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Posted November 19, 2008 Seems like another excellent representation in this scale. Well done. Mike Thanks Mike!
Mark Deliduka Posted November 19, 2008 Author Report Posted November 19, 2008 Hey Mark, That gun looks short for a 100mm? Want to do one of these in Egyptian markings from 1956. Yeah, someone on the Braille Scale Forums on Missing Lynx told me the same thing. Said it was the Su-85. I simply followed the instructions on the sheet and this is what I got. Maybe I'll go back to the kit and see if there's a longer barrel on the sprues that I could change out. I want to do one in Egyptian markings from 1956 also. And even captured Israeli markings as well. I even saw a plate with Syrian markings and camo on it, I might even try that one. I'll wait till the Dragon kit is available and use that. This UM model is a difficult one to build. Thanks for the reply Phil.
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