Search the Community
Showing results for tags '1/48th scale'.
Found 3 results
Hey all, It's been a while, but the C-46 is done and shipped. So now it's back to the Kinetic 1/48th kit of the Northrop Grumman E2C Hawkeye 2000. Some of you may find it helpful to go back and review the first three installments of this build. As with the C-46, this is a commission build for another client. O.K., y'all up to speed? Then let's see if I can get you a ways farther down the road. Besides the normal canopy, the E2C has three round windows located in the starboard fuselage. Kinetic provides individual inserts that fit perfectly. Due to the extended tab attached to each window, there's no problem with solvent fouling the clear. On the outside, these are some of the easiest windows I've seen to mask. Slap a piece of blue masking tape over each, run your fingernail around the window seam, follow that with a #11 blade and you're done. Whether you opt for extended or folded wings, that large radome guarantees that this little critter is a tail sitter and then some. Since there's enough room, l picked up a package of self-adhesive lead weights from Great Planes....try your radio control airplane shops if you can't find them elsewhere. With the cockpit installed in the starboard fuselage, I packed in close to a full ounce of lead in front of and behind the cockpit. The white arrows show you exactly where. Since each 1/4 ounce piece has VERY sticky tape on the back, you won't have to worry about the weights coming loose. But do be sure you have'em where you want'em before applying pressure because you won't be gettin' them loose. Another 3/4 ounce or so of lead was added to the port fuselage. Not only did this make sure that it wouldn't tail sit, it also tells you why those Scale Aircraft Conversion metal replacement gear are essential. If you haven't had an Oops! event while working on models, you haven't been building very long! Here I got ahead of myself and joined the tail end of the fuselage before adding the tail hook well. Fortunately the solvent hadn't cured too long, so a lot of care and a new #11 blade made splitting the aft fuselage fairly easy. Rather than split the entire fuselage, I wrapped a rubber band around the fuselage about halfway up, then shoved a spring clothespin into the gap to keep the fuselage halves separated,. With the tail hook well properly installed, the fuselage halves were rejoined and a rubber band along with another spring clothespin was used to keep everything snug until the solvent dried. Partly because of its size, the fuselage is not one that can be held together and watch the seams disappear. I had to work my way around a few inches at time, as well as employing the assistance of a number of rubber bands as I went.
Hi all, This is another commission build that follows the C-46. Not near as difficult as the C-46, but more involved and tedious due to the greater number of parts, with many of them...primarily antennas...being very small and delicate.You also have options for extended or folded wings, flap position, etc. Hope you enjoy this series as many of you have the ongoing C-46 series. The box is large, sturdy, is crammed full of parts and presents a superb illustration to attract you. Interestingly, nowhere on the boxtop, instructions or decal sheet...including the aftermarket decal sheet...is the manufacturer's name mentioned. Obviously, this is due to royalty demands of various manufacturers. This is the kit-provided decal sheet. And the aftermarket sheet from Vagabond Decals that my client provided. Construction started with the tail components. You'll have to be very careful not to hit the static discharge wires. Center section of the the wing comes next. Here you're looking at the bottom of the center section. Old fashioned wood, spring style clothespins make excellent clamps. Don't forget that you can use them in tight areas if you backcut the jaws. The air intake duct is a somewhat tricky fit. Spend some time dry fitting the assembled duct and gear well insert before you ever reach for the glue/solvent. Don't overlook part 28 that mounts in the rear of each duct. It shows the front of the turbine fan but is virtually invisible after the nacelle is assembled, However, it does block light. A slightly different view showing the duct and gear well insert in place. Note that the duct has a front and back, though it's hard to tell, so be sure to determine that before installing part 28.
Are there any currently available aftermarket decals for the 1/48th Monogram F-105 kits? Specifically the F-105D and F-105G in Viet Nam. Already have a source for the F-105 Thunderstick II (Zotz Decals). The reason for "currently available" is that these models are intended for publication and I'd rather not send readers on a snipe hunt for OOP sheets. All help greatly appreciated. Richard Marmo