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Spitfiredude

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About Spitfiredude

  • Rank
    SnapTite

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Randall
  • LastName
    Rydjeski
  • City
    Costa Mesa
  • State
    California
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Wow, knockout stuff! I just posted on another Corsair presented for perusal but congrats on this representation. I especially like the way you weathered your Corsair by changing the shade of the blues you sprayed, looks very natural and you achieved scale effect, that is hard to do, the paint has to be thinned just right. I hope my FAA version turns out as well as yours! Keep posting your builds, you got some talent dude! Cheers
  2. I usually don't post comments but I love Corsairs and yours is a nice, clean representation. I always like that overall dark sea blue with the contrasting white and blue modex. I have six Tamiya Corsair kits, probably give them to my son because I will be dead before I ever start one of my 300 kits! So many kits, so little time. Keep up the good work! Cheers
  3. Your solution is pretty simple, especially if you are working in a larger scale. Whenever I sprayed the anti glare panel on my Mustangs I used Scotch Tape, the dull acetate or "invisible" tape. This will give you a very straight line, just make sure you press the edge down really well, then go over that tape with painter tape as you tape off the rest of the fuselage.You should get a clean line. If you are using "rattle can" flat black you got to make sure you spray from at least a foot away from the kit, sounds like you are spraying too close and that is the problem, so light coats of paint with short duration squirts. If you are using an airbrush, do the same thing, maybe use less air pressure. As for your windscreen just buy masks. The alternative is to place the same dull acetate tape over the various sections, then follow the outline of the framework with a new #11 exacto blade (scalpels just don't work well for modeling, use them for dental surgery where they belong) then gently press down against the frame edges. If you do it right using your steady dental hand you will have nice painted framework. Remember to spray from a distance with short duration spraying so the paint doesn't build up and bleed through. If you do get a little bleed through then after you pull off the tape you can clean off the edge of the framework with the tip of a tooth pick (I know how much you dentists love those things) and you should have a nice looking canopy frame work. Make sure you tape off the inside of the windscreen too. Hope this helps, but it is worth the few extra dollars to buy paint masks for the canopies and wind screens, although Mustangs and T-Bolts have about the easiest canopies to tape off. Cheers SD
  4. Now that I know it is flyable I wan't to see it here in California. Those old Gen 2 jets got a lot of soul. Maybe there is hope for an F7U Cutlass, but I don't think there is a pilot who would touch it no matter how nicely done it is. Anybody hear about the progress on the P-61 over at Mid Atlantic? Probably another year or two on that one. Cheers,
  5. What kit did you buy? If it is the same aircraft the decals should fit. You may need a little alteration for D-Day stripes but usually it is not a problem. Many times Revell Germany uses Hasegawa moulds, as in the case of the Spit Mk XI and Hurricane Mk IIc.
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