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fletch

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About fletch

  • Rank
    Assembler
  • Birthday 01/29/1956

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    pdxdeuce
  • Website URL
    http://www.sabanw.org
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  • Yahoo
    pdxdeuce

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    David
  • LastName
    Fletcher
  • IPMS Number
    46932
  • City
    Portland
  • State
    Oregon
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Portland, Oregon
  1. Plan on being up early Saturday morning, looking forward to meeting the group.
  2. Gil, I completely agree, we all have our likes and dislikes when it comes to model building. Over the years I’ve build just about any and every thing when it comes to models. I’ve built Ships, Armor, Aircraft, Railroads and obviously Car and Trucks. About the only thing I’ve never taken on are figures. All these genres have their own techniques that can either directly or with some modification can be used in building in another genre. None of us have all the answers when it comes to building contest winning models. I see how Armor is weathered and know that same technique can transfer t
  3. Don, I guess I need to explain my thought process. If in order to move forward an apology is needed or required all we do is bring new members into asking what the issue is/was in the first place. I honestly do not believe it serves any purpose to continually bring up past wrongs. If we can learn from past ills we stand a better chance of making things right. From my point of view, to continue bringing up the past serves as much purpose as doing the same thing in a marriage. If we can’t get past the ills of the past we’ll never have a chance to move forward. Perhaps, this is something of
  4. Don, while you are correct in that I am new to weighing in on this discussion, I am quite familiar with the ongoing dialog. Prior to becoming an IPMS member and our club becoming an IPMS Chapter we heard nothing but horror stories about how Model Car Builders had been treated at IPMS events. I did go and read your proposal and will say that for the most part I agree with it. There are some tweaks I'd like to see with it. However, I am all too familiar with what can happen when you go from proposal to committee. More often than not you end up with a platypus as everyone wants their “Special
  5. Well, let me weight in on this issue. As a model car builder for close to 50 years and judging contest locally outside of IPMS for over 15 years, I think I have a bit of a different take on this issue then has been offered here. As a model car builder I have no problem whatsoever with the IPMS judging guidelines. They are in fact pretty much common sense and fit the criteria we use when judging a contest. We do use a defined point system to determine where an entrant places within a class etc. I take umbrage with so called “People’s Choice” contests, they are not and never will be true rep
  6. That is amazing, great workmanship
  7. Got the chop and fill work completed on the '48. There was less then .050" removed from the 'B' pillars with the rear window area reworked to fit the new roof profile. The modification is not overly severe, but sure goes a long way to improve the roof line over the "Kit Chop". Hosted on Fotki Next up are the chassis modifications to get the rear end sitting in the weeds as any good taildragger should.
  8. Picked up the new Revell '48 Ford Custom Coupe. Overall the kit is a well done addition to the Revell line with one exception. IMHO, the chop leaves a lot to be desired. I am not sure who at Revell thinks chops where the 'B' pillars are higher then either the 'A' or 'C' are cool but, their taste and mine are not even close. They managed to screw up the chop on the '49 Merc, and did the same thing with the new '48. So. here's my solution the issue of the chop. The sharpie lines are landmarks for cuts to improve the chop. The 'A' pillars were cut to remove the roof for t
  9. Chris, Nail Polish is about the closest thing you can get to painting with lacquer without spraying lacquer. Here in Portland we were forced into finding a alternative for lacquer about 15 years ago when the city banned the use of automotive lacquer and nail polish was the best choice. I've used just about every manufacture of nail polish with no problem. I use standard hardware store medium grade lacquer thinner to cut the nail polish to be able to shoot it through an airbrush. The usual ratio is somewhere in the 50/50 - 60/40 nail polish to thinner, depending on the nail polish. You wan
  10. Chris, one thing you'll find spraying a model that big with a standard model airbrush, is that coverage is going to be tough. For large scale builds I use an automotive touch up brush. I bought mine from Harbor Freight, if memory serves I paid something like $15 for it. For the most part I use automotive paint or nail polish for just about any build. Very seldom do I use model paint anymore. Also, I use urethane clear for most all my builds, the urethane clear is a 2 part catalyzed paint, it hardens in as little as 20 minutes to cure depending upon how much catalyst you use. The best p
  11. The quickest way I know to remove chrome or paint is to use Dawn Power Dissolver. I pick it up at WalMart, it runs $2.87 for a 12oz bottle. The Power Dissolver removes chrome including the clear lacquer, taking it down to bare plastic in about 20 minutes. The same can be said for removing paint. Depending upon how thick the paint it may take as much as 24 hours. The up side of the Power Dissolver vs Super Clean is it's not as caustic to your skin. Wearing gloves is recommended for any of these products.
  12. Nicely done Mark, it looks good, I think your Brother-in-law should be very pleased in the effort.
  13. Nicely Done Chris, it captures the look nicely. As for the chrome, have you tried using Sophisticated Finishes Antiquing Kit? It's a 2 part system, Part A is a steel based paint, you allow it to dry then apply Part 2 which is an oxidizer. You apply it over the paint, it takes aprox 24 hours for the 'rusting' process to produce the affect you want. If you don't neutralize the oxidizer it will continue to rust, neutralizing the process requires an application of water. For something like this, water on a Q-tip will do the job perfectly.
  14. This has to be seen to be truly appreciated. Gary is modest as to how this build has done in the contest he has entered it in. At the Bob Paeth Portland Classic Model Car Contest held every year in conjunction with the Portland Roadster Show we do an additional event, that being the Best of the Best. The premise of the Best of the Best is that the entry has had to of won a class 1st place or a best of or Best in Show to even be entered. It's our version of a master's class. Gary was able to enter the Midget and Trailer in the contest. It's a winner takes all event, a single trophy. Thi
  15. Mark, what scale is this? I take it that it's for an RC car. Polycarbonate bodies can a task to get the paint to cooperate. Guess they figure it's going to get beat up anyway, so the final finish isn't that big a deal. It looks good, no matter how much it fought you .
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