tom

I am not trying to open a can of worms here, but, our models are supposed to be scale representations of the real thing. If it wasn't an important issue to a lot of modelers there wouldn't all the after market stuff to correct inaccuracies. There wouldn't be debates on forums, especially WWI forums, over correct colors of markings or lozenge fabric colors. I know the key thing is to enjoy the hobby, whether you build out of the box and don't worry about seams or you add every after market detail you can to your model that you can find. Reviewers will always discuss the accuracy of the kit. If your interested about that why not the correct colors. i am tired of hearing the line that the paint batches were different. Yes the were but not by great amounts of difference. You only notice the difference when you to different batches side by side. I have been using Humbrol paints for years and when I use RLM 70 & 71 the contrast isn't any greater than the real 1 to 1 plane. So, I disagree with you there Gil. We add details to models that wouldn't be seen at real distances of the 1 to 1 object, but we know they are supposed to be there, so our brain tells us it doesn't look right if we can't see it. When we look into a models cockpit, lets say a 1/72, and we don't see the instruments, switches and throttles, etc. it looks empty. I will end this on the note that I personally want my models to be accurate and I don't mean every little detail added, I mean the detail that is there, the shape and colors. A friend of mine built his models without filling the seams and just followed what was in the instructions for painting. I had no problems with his models. I say to each his own.

I have been using Humbrol paint for the RLM 70 & 71. Seeing humbrol is hard to get i been been looking for a replacement paint. What I have found so far is not very accurate. I paint in enamels and Model master's RLM 70 & 71 have to much of a contrast between the two colors. I have looked a acrylics and they all the same problem as MM the DunkelGrun is way to light and two much of a contrast between it and the schwarzgrun. It seems to be the trend in modeling lately is more toward how well a model is built and not to much toward accuracy, for example the over emphasized panel lines.

How about a conversion a nice stretched Ju 88H-3?

Mike, I went and down loaded the PDF file of the instructions. Thank very much.

I have the Accurate Miniatures 1/48 kit of the Grumman F3F-2 without instructions. Does anyone have this kit that could scan the instructions and and send to me? Also would like to know what opinions there are of this kit. If good am thinking of getting the F3F-1 and F3F-3.

Plane looks great. My only criticism is with the figure, he's to glossy. You need to put some dull coat on his clothes.

I ended up sanding the remaining decal off with fine sandpaper. I am now in the process of touching up with paint.

If you want to improve your Mattel vacu-u-from there is a refurbishing kit. It is made by Vac-U-Form. I found them on the Internet. I bought a complete refurbishing set. I haven't refurbished by Mattel vacu-u-from with it yet. I have read some reviews of it and that is what caused me to get it.

I did it several times. Even with different tape. I even tried duct tape and couldn't get all of it.

I tried the tacky tape. It took off about 95% of the decal. It still left some small pieces which I will probably have to sand off.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will give it a try and let you know how well it worked.

I agree with Gil on a "hold and fold" tool. It makes folding PE a lot easier and lesson the chance of losing a part. Tom

I was decaling a Tamiya 1/48 Spitfire Mk. Vb and one of the decals got screwed up a bit. How do I remove it without having to sand it of and go through all the trouble again of painting and masking to camouflage and again putting on Future. i have tried to loosen with decal solvent Micro Set, didn't work. Someone suggested using Windex Window cleaner with ammonia, again didn't work. At the moment sanding seems to be the only option. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Tom

I have heard some people say Micro Set will cause Future to fog as it has ammonia in it. They use Micro Sol exclusively for that reason.