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MikeH

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Posts posted by MikeH

  1. A quick update. I've got the second coat of black on after a bit of sanding. I still have to mask off and paint the engine bay area and detail it. I'm still in the process of working up some decals also. The interior was treated with the semi-gloss coat to give the vynil and leather sheen. Next is detail painting and some washes.

     

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  2. A quick update. I've got the second coat of black on after a bit of sanding. I still have to mask off and paint the engine bay area and detail it. I'm still in the process of working up some decals also. The interior was treated with the semi-gloss coat to give the vynil and leather sheen. Next is detail painting and some washes.

     

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  3. Here's the first coat of black with the un-detailed interior so far. The interior colors are giving me fits as the "ebony" isn't truly black, but more of a faded black/really dark gray. The rear running lights were cut out on the other side of the rear bumper last night and painted. This black paint is "OK" and my smoothest to date. I still need to give it a wet-sand and smooth it out, re-shoot and clear it. It's funny that I'm basically polishing the primer before I spray the black. giggle I also added valve stems to the rims and got the lug nuts painted gray. I've yet to give a black wash to the under chassis and rims to make them "pop"

     

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  4. Chassis looks great. Coming along nicely. Did you give your consingee links to see you in progress posts? If he's following along, I know he would be happy.

     

    No. I offered to exchange information etc. and he was seemed adimant about not exchanging information and just said he'd talk to my dad. I figure I'll track him down when it's all done.

  5. Well, I couldn't have done this twice if I tried. I got the top lines up, pillars lined up, and the window fits like a glove! :D :D I have to put a spot of putty and fill in a couple spots, plus rescribe a bit of weather stripping, but it's well on its way!

     

    I truly needed this build I think, as it's really caused me to evaluate my building skills and what I've learned over the last 7 years since returning to the hobby. cheers

     

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  6. A Badger 200 is a solid unit. I've got two. I have also recently bought three new GREX airbrushes. All gravity-feed (rather than syphon feed like my Badger). The Tritium is a pistol-grip dual action that I have set up with a .5mm tip for bulk painting. I also have their Genesis XG with a .3mm tip, and a Genesis XN with a .2mm tip for really fine detail. The advantage of gravity-feed units is the paint is atomized better for smoother paint jobs.

  7. My goal is to finish something in my own stash, if I can every stop asking for review models! Something about free stuff..is that bad?

     

    Chris

     

    No, there is NOTHING bad about that. Plus it makes us build things and take a new approach to it during a review which is a good thing. I think it sharpens one's skills.

  8. I got these in the mail today. The guy was at the Nordicon contest, but I didn't have any leftover cash to buy them at the time. Back to the tools - the one on the left is a great multi-tool. I can't wait to use it for scribing some panel lines on the Camaro project. The other tool from him is this JLC saw. The blade is super thin and cuts beautifully through styrene. I'll be using it to cut the tops off the Firebird and Camaro for the swap out. Here's the link to his website -

     

    http://www.umm-usa.com

    http://www.umm-canada.com

     

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  9. Hi, Mike,

     

    Thanks for the shot of the two car bodies side by side. From this angle it looks like an easy cut-and-paste, and you get the T-top car you want with the Camaro and a unique Firebird with a hardtop as a secondary bonus. I assume you are planning on a gloss black Camaro to match the real car in the first picture, so are you going to use acrylic paint or enamel paint? My choice would be the Model Master enamel gloss black fully cured and then polished out with Novus #2 followed by Novus #1. Apply any decal markings to the polished paint. Finally, use model car wax on the polished paint over the dried decals, and you won't need the clear coats to have a realistic looking finish.

     

    Looking forward to your progress. The thin saw should minimize lost plastic thickness when you make your cuts. Good luck!

     

    Ed

     

    Thanks Ed for the suggestion. However, I'll be using Tamiya rattle can black and clear coat. I can't stand enamel paints as I've never been able to get them to gas out for me and never dry properly. I'll also be printing my own decals as the red SS markings to match the guy's actual car aren't on the sheet. The "firechicken" will be put in the box of scrap with other models I didn't care for after I built them. LOLOL

  10. I'm awaiting a new tool to complete a body mod on this one. I'm using an old build up for the t-top set up. Revell molded in the t-tops on the 98 Ram Air and they are identical to the t-tops on the Camaro I'm building. Once I get my new saw, the tops will come off! I will also have to locate and cut out the side running lights on the rear bumper since they're not molded in.

     

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  11. Gary,

     

    Check with these two places -

     

    Fred Sterns - http://www.fredsmodelworldonline.com/ He's old-school but may have what you're looking for. His inventory isn't real-time so your best bet is to call or email him.

     

    Scale Model Supplies - This is a store in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area that I go to when I'm there. Last time I was in I thought I saw a large scale Trans Am or Corvette. They may have it. http://www.scalemodelsupplies.com/

  12. Hi, Mike,

     

    I just compared the Revell kits of the 35th Anniversary Camaro to the 1998 Pontiac Firebird Ram-Air, both F-body cars. Revell did the Camaro with a smooth hardtop and decals to simulate the T-top glass panels. Revell did the Firebird with actual outlines of glass panels engraved on the top, but still used decals to simulate the glass. It would appear that you could cut off the tops of the two cars at the same places and exchange the tops. This would at least give the impression of separate T-top glass panels on your Camaro. The curves of the glass are very gentle, so it might be possible to form or shape clear plastic to fit the openings if you choose to cut them open.

     

    Also, the AMT annuals for the Firebird from 1993 through 1997 featured a clear windshield piece that reached back over the top to include the T-top glass panels. Perhaps one of these windshield pieces will fit the Revell kit because, in theory, the roofline stayed the same from 1993-2002.

     

    Just some thoughts . . .

     

    Ed

     

    I hadn't even thought of that. I have an old 98 Ram Air built up and a new one in the box. Thanks.

  13. I was asked to build a replica of a guy's 1:1 car at a car show/fundraiser last month. I started on it today. The fun part is going to be all the different shades of black and setting them off against each other. Tonight I had some DVR time and spent the evening sanding and slicing body parts to line up properly and without major gaps. I've got some minor work on the rear spoiler piece to do yet but that should be easy to fix with some styrene strip. I'm seriously considering cutting the roof out to replicate the t-tops but I'm not sure if the guy would want that or not. I may call and ask him. That and I'd need a vacuform machine that I don't have to fold the window edges over for the roof. I'll also be printing my own SS decals for the side and back. The actual car and the started project.

     

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  14. it's with great pleasure I inform you that this freakin' kit has pissed me off to the extent that it is in the box with the sprues, on the shelf, and never shall it darken my workbench again. cheers_smiley.gif Headlamps wouldn't line up then when I put the chassis to the body, the headlamps moved, and it was just not a good thing. This kit wasn't a good thing.

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