spiralcity

i started shooting this series on YouTube back in 08. It's a peek in the box of various kits, not all are aircraft, but this offering is. I hope some find it helpful. I know it's nice to get a look at decals and instruction sheets and such before making a purchase, especially if it's a manufaturer you are unfilmiliar with. So, here it is, just a peek in the box. Smer 1/50 BH.11 Avia https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cFVcP3iKFE

Well if it's a fad, it's the longest running fad I have ever seen. My father taught me to model in the early 70's and he was weathering then.

I pulled in a Accurate Miniature Stormovick 1/48 scale for 8.00 on eBay. [/url]

Please post some photos of this bird when you get her complete.

No less than 24 hours for me. No rush on my end and no need to take any chances.

I highly disagree. There were some heavily wreathed machines rolling during WWII, Korea and Nam. Weathering is not always subtle, as a matter of fact I cant think of a single war machine that had seen combat that didn't look weathered. The only machines not weather were the ones sitting on the show room floor

Incorrect. The following Humbrol colors have recently been discontinued, according to reports from the UK, although most if not all seem to be available from Hornby USA: 36 Matt pastel green 42 Matt violet 44 Matt pastel blue 58 Matt magenta 111 Matt field grey 112 Matt field blue 156 Satin dark camouflage grey 157 Matt azure blue 167 Satin RAF Barley grey 168 Satin hemp 187 Matt dark stone 195 Satin dark green 225 Matt middle stone 230 Matt PRU blue 234 Matt dark flesh 237 Matt desert tan 239 Gloss British racing green 240 Matt RLM 02 grau 241 Matt RLM 70 schwartzgrun 242 Matt RLM 71 dunkelgrun 243 Matt RLM 72 grun 244 Matt RLM 73 grun 245 Matt RLM 74 graugrun 246 Matt RLM 75 grauviolett 247 Matt RLM 76 lichtblau 248 Matt RLM 78 himmelblau 249 Matt RLM 79 sandbraun 250 Matt desert sand 251 Matt RLM 81 dunkelbraun 252 Matt RLM 82 olivgrun 253 Matt RLM 83 dunkelgrun 1325 Clear green Amazon also has some still in stock, but I guess when they sell, they will be gone. Matt field grey is selling for 12.00, too pricey for what it is, even if it's discontinued. I'll go with acrylic.

Humbol still has a full line-up, correct? I haven't looked through the entire catalog, but I believe a lot of military colors can be found here. http://www.humbrol.com/uk-en/shop/paints/enamel-paints.html?

I've seen this discussion many times and there is no wrong or right answer when looking at model building from an artistic standpoint. Art is subjective and always will be, no matter who tries to put spin on it, each individual will ALWAYS perceives art in a different manner. I would only perceive a model as over weathered if it was meant to be an actual reproduction of a given subject but was heavily over done. I for one do not like pre-shading panel lines. I have seen thousands of photos of WWII aircraft and I have never seen a single aircraft display this kind of weathering. I know this is done for effect, but it doesn't work for me, but that's just me. I am not saying this technique looks bad, I just feel it's not entirely accurate, and some model builders go way overboard with the technique. So, there are more than a single side to this subject, but it all comes down to the individual in the long run.

I wish your photo files were bigger, it's hard for an old guy like me to take a look. As far as I can see, this looks like great work. thanks for posting. OK, this post is from 2014....ooops.. It's hard finding new post.

This is terrific work, absolutely fantastic detail and superb execution. I have a few questions (not criticisms) just some curious questions about the dio. Will there be more progress pics? Will there be more work on the blown out potion of the house? I was wondering about the blown out portion of the house. Shouldn't the foundation have some damage and isnt the room a little too tidy for having a blown out wall? Should part of the floor display damage and the walls be darkened, perhaps wall paper peel and such, some broken furniture and other damaged items? Also the surrounding exterior wall near the blown out portion, shouldn't they display some stress fractures and such? This is not criticism at all, I think your work is fantastic. These are just mere observations and curiosities. I was thinking perhaps more progress pics would be posted and many of my questions would be answered. Thanks for posting your work, I really enjoyed reading the thread. I know it's a year old, but hopefully you will post some more.

Nice work, thanks for sharing.

I rarely work in 1/72 so I cant help you. Sorry.

Here's a good tip for thick resin and removing unwanted material: Use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel or a sanding disk, it will save you so much time. Just cut a bit long, then sand off the remainder. It takes only minutes as compared to an hour of sawing then another of sanding. If your floor is too wide, you should easily be able to mod it to fit. Even if your inside walls are too high, they can be modified to fit. I would be concerned about too short and too narrow, but even then you can add on. A few pics of the problem would help. I couldn't add the second photo above, but this was the process for a fit on my kit.

You should always check to make sure there are better manufacturers of a cockpit before purchasing True Details, I found Verlinden and Aires to be a far superior product. Having said that, you really have to work the resin and your fuselage halves, It isn't meant to be a snap-it-in job, and I do believe resin makers assume that people purchasing their products have a bit of scratch building experience, or are at least experienced model builders. I have had to do some crazy stuff with resin such as run hot water over it while using clothes pins to hold and shape it to my fuselage sides. You have to be careful that the water is not too hot, so experience comes with trial and error, Don't be afraid to dig in and try things, this is how we all learn. Watch a few YouTube videos and get some tips. I find watching videos much more informative than getting replies such as this on a forum. I'm using a 1/32 Grand Phoenix Productions cockpit designed for Hasegawa on my 1/32 Matchbox Bf/109E-3. It wasn't a perfect fit, so I modified, but this seems to be par for the course regardless of make or model.

For the most part there will be no major difference. The gun armament on the P39D 1BE/2BE was slightly different in that it had a single 20mm canon as compared to the 37mm on the other variants. Other than that I do not think there was any major differences, other than slight weight variations, and range and speed of the aircraft.

Hi, I'm a new member from the North Eastern part of Illinois, it's nice to be part of the community. Thanks for having me.