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RobMorales

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Posts posted by RobMorales

  1. My experiences have taught me a few different lessons: (1) Do not put models in overhead storage! While you may pay more to get it on early, the jamoke trying to fit his too large piece of luggage in the last too small space in the overhead- right next to your model- will pound his bag like Rocky working a side of beef! All that shock will be transmitted to your model. Nick Filippone

     

    Jamoke...I like that one!!! :smiley20:

  2. Wow, that really comes down to pretty much everything in my stash! I've been going through it quite a bit lately, and I'd have to say the kits that bring the biggest smiles these days are the British aircraft from WWII and just after, and the Shermans in it's many guises.

     

    I was just perusing stuff like the Tempest II, Sea Fury, Hornet and Brigand as well as the Dragon M4 DV, the Tasca Firefly Mk I C, the Dragon Sherman MK II...............

     

    So many kits :smiley31: ....so little time! :smiley19:

     

    Mike Moore

     

    Yeah, I'm with you, Mike...my stash makes me happy!

  3. The Phoenix Nats will be the first one that I have not driven to. I would like to bring a couple of models to enter but I am concerned about how to get them there. I am sure that people here have some experience. How do you get a model onto an airliner?

     

    Can they be in a box and stored under the seat?

     

    Can a box be shipped as luggage?

     

    Any suggestions are welcome.

     

     

    As a veteran airline employee, above all else...DO NOT I repreat DO NOT CHECK YOUR MODEL AS BAGGAGE!!!

     

    I agree with Pete about getting the max carry-on dimensions and shrink it an inch in each dimension. Have the package assembled so that it can be easily opened and inspected by security, even proactively approach them before you put it on the x-ray belt and tell them what you have. When you get to the gate, beg, plead, bribe the gate agent to let you on ahead of the dreaded "Zone 4" herd, or you'll likely not find any avaialable overhead space for your package.

  4. The best kit that I built was the 1/35 Tristar Pzkpfw I or the 1/48 Accurate F-6B Photo Mustang. I did my best to goof them up but they refused to fail :smiley20:

     

    I wasn't so enamored with DML's 1/72 P-38 Droop Snoot. Had too many fit issues for the price. :smiley19:

     

    I am proudest of the 1/35 Hobbycraft (Trumpeter mold) BJ-1212 that I converted into an African Technical. I challenged myself, made a plan, stuck with it and now I have a unique vehicle telling a not-too-unique story :smiley16:

  5. Mark,

     

    I think that since there are accuracy issues especially with the A2 versions and later, and that it's almost exclusive to US Army use and there are so many more really cool armor lits nowadays that the old Bradley just doesn't get the props that it's heavy armor stable mate Abrams gets. Personally, I like the Bradley, but I am not right... :P :wacko::blink:

  6. Jeff,

     

    I got all excited when I saw "M3A2" thinking Bradley...then I saw it was the old WW2 bucket, but then I got excited again seeing the great job you did on it!

     

     

  7. You do oil washes over your final flat coat? Hmmm, very interesting. I've always done the oil wash over the final gloss over the decals (and I use Future for my Gloss) and before the final flat or satin coat.

    I am with David here. This prevents an interaction between the enamel thinner in the wash and the Future acrylic coat.

     

    The models look super, btw! I am a sucker for Canberras... :smiley20:

  8. Hmm, no replies yet eh? Okay well, I'll just continue posting my progress anyway.

     

     

    Oh, and on the the Anti Tank Group Build on the LEM, I was finishing up my Su-100 when suddenly, Hans Rudel struck:

     

    WIP%20Su-100%20IX.jpg

     

    In actuality, the tracks were too tight and so the idler wheels and one of the first roadwheels on one side broke off as I was weathering it. This pic shows where I used the Tenax-7 to 'weld' them back on with some reinforcement so hopefully I'll have this finished tomorrow.

     

    Thanks all for looking, comments are welcome.

     

     

    AHHH!!! I HATE it when that happens! :smiley19::smiley13::smiley18:

  9. The best representatives I've used are Testor's Euro Dark Green, Testor's Olive Drab, and Testor's Aircraft Interior Black. All are Model Master colors. I also use the Testor's Leather for the brown. I use the same colors (substituting Testor's Dark Green for the Euro Dark Green) for my MERDC schemes as well.

     

    If you'd like to see some pics of my Leopards, let me know. I'll post them so you can see what I did.

     

    Duke's got it right IMHO. My experience with tanks painted in the NATO CARC paint is that fading is not very dramatic. For the most part, fine layers of dust and grime are evident more than fading, especially on factory- or depot-painted vehicle.

  10. Rob,

    - This is a sweet little build. IMHO you did an excellent job on it and I hope that my small artillery pieces come out half as good as yours here.

    - I can't help but notice the huge similarity between this piece and the German 37mm Pak 36. If not for the difference in barrel sizes (76.2mm as opposed to 37mm) and if you had removed the auxiliary siting plate from the top left shield and then painted it Panzer Grey, I would have never known the difference. I wonder.....which one came first? This....or the Pak 36? Maybe there's a manufacture cross over or shared design in their early development. Still.....great build. Thanks for posting it.

     

    Ken, I believe that the Soviet carriage is a copy of the German one, if I remember reading correctly. Which is kind of strange to me as the Red Army has quite the history of developing field guns.

    Thanks for the compliments! :smiley1:

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