Jump to content

Gaston

Member
  • Content Count

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About Gaston

  • Rank
    Assembler

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Gaston
  • LastName
    Marty
  • Local Chapter
    IPMS Ottawa
  • City
    Gatineau
  • State
    Quebec
  • Gender
    Male
  1. Gaston

    Yukikaze FINISHED

    Great work! Much better colors in the second set of photos! What scale and what brand? Gaston
  2. How is the shape on that monitor? (now that some time has passed) Trumpeter's supposedly "sound" Essex class was so far off on the bow, I'm still rolling my eyes at the perspective of anything they might do... I'm staying away from them almost no matter what by now... Gaston
  3. I agree about the lack of a Nelson and Rodney, and about how great it is to get a Monitor type(!): The problem with the Rodney/Nelson however is the same problem that plagues much of what you suggest is missing, which is in large part aircraft carriers: Nelson and Rodney, because of their strange configuration, look about as attractive as oil tankers, and that is even more true of the aircraft carriers... I am sure, without even knowing anything about it, that aircraft carriers are poor sellers compared to battleships. I would not blame manufacturers for not making even the minimal
  4. Fantastic stuff!: Did not even know about this one... Gaston
  5. I disagree with the general premise of the OP: What I really see instead are obscure subjects being well-kitted (because kitted more recently) while famous subjects linger on with old crap kits... The OP completely ignores that obscure subjects have a huge inherent advantage over famous ones: The famous ones will usually be kitted first, therefore they will suffer from usually being the oldest releases around. This is a universally true rule far more impacting those wanting famous kits than those wanting obscure ones... With obscure subjects you either have a recent kit or you don't have
  6. Inaccurate Tamiya models getting a free pass... Their recent Il-2 or Fi-156 for instance... The worst though is moulded-in assymetries: Monogram's B-29 had a flaw in the right fuselage mould (right from the start in 1977) so they bored out the right fuselage to polish it out... Now the kit is "swollen" on the right side. You can see that by the wing stubs which are still the same depth to the centerline: They stick out less on the right side... The fuselage steel mould's tail is also warped under heat treatment, so the fin tilts to the left as does the top rear turret bases compared to t
  7. To my mind this is the best way to do this: Spinning a spinner on a dremel drill against a semi-wet paint brush, until a likeable effect is achieved: Here the off-white "sky" was applied last to "take in" the dark grey, as the dark grey wanted to splutter at first: It was not easy, but once in while you hit just the right "viscosity" of whitish paint, and then you have to stop. My model here had unfixable symmetry issues, so I took the spinner off for a later Special Hobby Seafire XV build! (in Revell boxing) The Airfix Mk XII kit is among the most horrendous kits I have ever
  8. This is because styrene sheets are not the same quality of plastic as the styrene used in most kits: You'll note Evergreen styrene sheets are usually much softer, yet less strong, than kit plastic when new, and will melt far more dramatically with liquid glue: They seem more porous inside, and are not identical at all to the plastic in most kits. The softness is to make them easier to work with than a kit's plastic I suppose... Also the injection moulding process of kits seems something way more forceful than plastic sheet rolling, and that could explain the difference... Many kits I own
  9. I think this might point to something being wrong with the way the application of decals is usually advised: Gloss-coating, setting solutions etc... To me, it seems the possiblity of silvering, which glossing doesn't seems to prevent every time, is a localized symptom of what is actually overall poor adhesion for the whole decal, with air trapped under the decal due to the decal glue being not being very dense (air being trapped in the decal's glue maybe): I use Solvaset (or Micro-sol on thinner decals) as a setting agent over/under directly on matte paint: The decal, attacked from both sides,
  10. I don't buy into color debates either. I did note colours will knock an aircraft down in some cases, and not in others, even though judges are not supposed to evaluate accuracy... What always surprised me as an aircraft modeller is the lack of thinning of trailing edges and prop blades: I'll never understand that, as it is I think the first thing anyone who doesn't know anything about models will look at to guess what is it made of: They see the thick trailing edges, and thick props blades, and some of them probably think: Oh, it's probably just wood or plastic... I'll concede on o
  11. Gaston

    P-40E Tomahawk

    Wow! What a great paint job! Superb looking kit for its age... G.
  12. Thanks for pointing out who "Dr Asher" is mquan! As far as using Future as a sealer, Future does not really bond or seep into the porousity of the underlying layer, and will shrink unevenly depending on the surface: It can't compare to TS-13 at all... I would never use it for coating anything other than dipping canopies. It could be that decanting and airbrushing TS-13 will allow better control: If that works without changing its properties, it would make using it even better. I have a feeling the properties might be altered by the decanting, which I have noticed in other products
  13. I've recently discovered that this Tamiya product makes a terrific primer, particularly on kits with many puttied areas. It shrinks into details (no pigments to carry) yet fills and seals porous areas (with polishing or a second coat) in a visible and predictable way... Regular primer will fill details after a few reapeated sandings, or even simply with a single thick coat, and on top of that it is porous itself: I would not use that again on aircrafts, particularly to check the blending-in of canopies, where mask removal revealed the weakening effect of the primer on the paint... Paint
  14. Their I-15/I-153 seems actually pretty good. Thin wings with very nice fabric effect. I do not miss most of their releases because of the thick wingtips, or thick entire wings! Many (but not all) of their kits look either like Hawker Typhoons in the wings, or like they could hardly fly (compared to the wings thickness of the original that is)... Gaston
×
×
  • Create New...