dcaponeII

I got the wire from my father in law back in 1980's. The manufacturing date on the wire spool is 1966. It's resistor wire for winding reostat coils and is 0.004" diameter and about 48 ohms per foot. I'm afraid I don't know where to get the wire now. Perhpas from Grainger?

Xmas Ornaments!! What a fantastic IDEA!!!

This build really "cracks" me up. Great job on the build.

It's the weekend edition kit which means no PE and only decals for one version that did not include lozenge. So I had some Eduard 5-color decals for the top surface and some Aeromaster lozenge for the lower surfaces. I also used some Aeromaster ribbing tapes. Finally I had some wood grain decal also from Aeromaster that I cut to match the panel lines on the kit. The rigging is 0.004" stainless steel wires cut to length and glued into place. I use a divider to measure the length I need and then use Testor's cement for clear parts to secure the ends. No holes anywhere just the small droplets to hold the ends in place. A little bit of flat black paint at each end gives the impression of turnbuckles. The stainless steel is nice because it doesn't sag under its own weight. Glad you like it. The plastic goes together beautifully just like most Eduard kits. I saved the styrene cockpit from the Eduard kit to use in a Glencoe Albatros that I've got on the shelf since I had a PE set for this build.

It took 7 1/2 weekends to build. It's the 1/48 scale Eduard kit.

This Eduard 1/48 Albatros D-V took 7 1/2 weekends to complete by the time my AMS kicked in. I hope you enjoy. Comments are welcome.

I'll bow to the majority. It was just a personal preference. I hope you didn't take it as critical. It is a teriffic build.

That's a terrific build. Congrats on a non-trivial kit to put together correctly. Great shading on the upper wing surface too. I might have used a slightly lighter shade for the linen. I think that there's a lot of yellowing going on in museum aircraft after more than a century. But that's just a personal preference as there aren't any color photos of the a/c in question to use.

Nothing too special for the bleached linen. I preshaded the ribs with leather. Then I mixed a bit of wood and leather into flat white enamel paint for the base color and sprayed until the preshading was just visible when the color coat was dry. I then shot a coat of clear gloss lacquer. Most of the effect comes from an acrylic wash applied over the top of the gloss coat. I applied a line across the top parallel to the long axis to the wing and then drew it in the direction of the slipstream with a wide dry brush. Then I sprayed another coat of gloss to seal it. Applied the decals, one more gloss coat and then another application of wash over the decals. I did similar effect on the fuselage but pulled the wash downward with the dry brush. In summary, I kept adding thin layers of paint, gloss and acrylic wash until I thought it looked correct. When it was the way I wanted then I sprayed flat clear lacquer over the entire model Note: I actually applied two separate coats of clear flat. The first had two drops of white mixed in and was applied to the upper surfaces. For the second coat I took the remaining mix in the paint up and added one drop of black. I sprayed this darkened mixture around the perimeter of the upper surfaces. I hope this explanation helps you understand the process I used.

Thanks. It was my first serious attempt at a competitive WWI a/c. I'd done a couple others two years ago but I couldn't get the rigging correct. I think the rigging on the Moraine Saulnier in another thread is an even better job at rigging.

Here's my 1/48 scale Eduard Moraine Saulnier N-1. (Still need to add the wedges to the prop but otherwise it's finished.

I thought you'd like to take a look at my Eduard N-17.