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bb62vet

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Everything posted by bb62vet

  1. Re. the enamel paint issue: seems like there is an online scam re. Rustoleum discontinuing the Testors brand of paints (they are the parent co.) but apparently this only applies to overseas distribution/sales. US/Canada distribution/sales continuing...at least with their best sellers. One never knows these days with profits outweighing customer need/loyalty/etc. - you may want to stock up on your most used colors. Just an FYI....
  2. Bob, First, thanks for the kind remarks - I do appreciate them! The paints I used on this build were all enamels - I do have acrylics, but I'm not too sure I'll stick with them on my PENNSY build in the future, although a few parts I've already created for that build are done with them. Most of the paints were Testor Model Master enamels and the "haze grey" I used was, in fact, Light Ghost Gray (FS36375) which is only available in bottle. On the deck/flat surfaces I used Gunship Gray (FS36118) which IS available in rattle can, as well. In addition, the hull was painted with a flat gray primer paint that was actually a lacquer - Mr. Color 601 - but the actual # of the bottle I don't have - all my modeling stuff is packed up and the paint with it. This paint went on well using vertical strokes with an artist's fan brush and was damn near identical (if not actually) to the Testor Lt. Ghost Gray. Good luck with your CONNY - I was aboard KITTY HAWK in 1966 taking air sea pilot rescue training prior to our destroyer's 66-67 Westpac cruise. Very similar to CONNY - esp. the paint scheme. Hank
  3. Thanks Rob, I always appreciate comments from non-ship modelers! If you do get interested, try something a bit less daunting for a first time - work your way into the hobby with something that's pretty much all in one package. This build was extremely challenging and complex. Hank
  4. Ralph, Thanks for the kind remarks re. the model. Your advice is well taken - esp. today when the OOB model building is simply for beginners or kids. Hank
  5. EJ, In the case of the IOWAs, both NEW JERSEY and IOWA were under construction at the same time - NJ at PNSY and IOWA at NYSY. There was fierce competition for steel by both yards to the point of actually driving off with loads of freshly rolled hot steel from one yard to the other. I'm also convinced that this also resulted in why the superstructures of those ships varied in their "as built" appearances. Each yard, I think, had the prerogative as to what was needed to build that ship and whether the exact cosmetic appearance was as shown by the blueprints or locally modified I would tend to believe that the yard had final say based on available steel, labor, schedules, etc. I would imagine that the carrier construction was no different, or any of the many classes of ships under construction for the war effort. I have also built the 1:350 Tamiya kits, even their predecessor, the 1:350 Life-Like MISSOURI. I actually liked it better than the newer Tamiya kits. I've always found that research is your best option before construction and part of that is photographs, if available. Good luck with your model build; I'm sure you'll reach a successful conclusion. Hank
  6. EJ, First - thanks for the compliment. Second - that's fine to use my build as a guide, but please keep in mind that all 4 IOWA class ships were NEVER identical at any time in their history. Each was built to a std. set of blueprints modified as needed by the shipyard doing the work. As a result, they all, even at their launchings, differed slightly in how they actually were built. One size does NOT fit all in this case. Similar - YES! but that's the extent of it. Hope this helps, Hank
  7. Sprueguy & Mark - Thanks so much - I do appreciate your comments and so forth. Nice to know others share my desire for details! I'm guessing that you (Mark) mean the IPMS show in Chattanooga. At this point I'm a forum member and not much else. Having just retired, I'm still sorting out things I'd like to do, things I NEED to know, and of course the most important - things my wife thinks are most important to be done next. 😥
  8. Ron, Thanks for the kind remark! Yes, a "small" bit of personal pride in the outcome.
  9. As a former crewmember of USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) - X Division, 1968-69, I Have wanted to build a larger model of her for a long time. The 1:200 scale Trumpeter MISSOURI kit provided the basic starting point for this project. I began in 2012 and finished in March 2019 - the complete build log is on The Ship Model Forum under Completed Models. I am posting photos only of the completed model here with a very brief assessment of the kit and overall project: The 1:200 Trumpeter kit for both MISSOURI/IOWA is, at best, a great idea with poor/fair outcome. The hull (common to both kits) is incorrectly molded and needed extensive rework to get the shape fairly close to what the actual ship was built. The 5"/38 dual gun mounts are incorrect for U.S. battleships (they would work for GEARING/SUMNER class DDs) so these were replaced by Model Monkey dual 5" mounts. All fire control directors/RADARs, etc. were replaced as they were incorrect or didn't exist in 1945. I created approx. 15-20 CAD drawings to fabricate equipment that was scratchbuilt for the model. The both masts and all RADARS/fwd. conning tower were all scratchbuilt or modified from the kit parts. I designed CAD drafted 3 sheets of PE parts which I had Starling Models (London, UK) print for me. Pontos provided a teak custom deck set that I gave them specifications as NEW JERSEY in 1967-69 had obvious changes made that I needed modified from their std. decking set. I also used the Pontos Detail Up kit for MISSOURI. Research included one week at NARA in College Park, MD in order to find additional information on NEW JERSEY as well as other ships. The display board and case I CAD designed/drafted and the case was trucked from Hamilton, OH to my home in North Carolina (what an ordeal!!). The model is 53" overall and the case 60" in length.
  10. Robert, Once again, Thanks! - I'll look into this (Openoffice) and their vector graphics Draw component. Quite professional the way that fellow had laid out his artwork and so forth on the Hampton Roads example. I do understand your comment re. the gray background - I had another modeler draw up some similar type graphics for me for a different ship model (can't recall the program he used but I think it was Illustrator) and he sent the .pdf to me with the objects placed on the sheet with various shades of gray as a "surround". These were not decals but printed on regular white paper. It worked great as the actual object was raised from the mounting surface and this gave that effect on the model. The gray I picked was almost invisible after placement. Looks like I've got some "schooling" to do and since this isn't a current on-going need, I should have time to research, download, study, etc. all the items that have been presented so far. Hank
  11. Michael, I appreciate the link and info! I'll look into that avenue although I don't have Adobe Illustrator (just Acrobat Reader) at present. It's quite possible that one of these fonts can be imported into my CAD program and used like any of the included fonts. I use the same program at work and can stay late and experiment - esp. during these cold nights!!! Hank
  12. Gentlemen, et al: Thanks so much for the advice, info, etc. First, almost all internet programs are going to the cloud (actually, IMHO they are going to Hell in a handbasket!) and it is for one reason only - $$$$$$!!! My CAD program is trying it's best to get everyone licensed on a cloud-based platform, which is why I don't have a current license. It's ridiculous! My only need at the moment is to create some 1/144 scale hull numbers for one of my ship models. These are black, military block numerals with a white shadow (you've seen them I'm pretty sure) - that's it! So, I'll take all the advice, info, instructions, etc. into account and go from there. I do have the official USN drawing that illustrates the proper size, styles, etc. so it's just a matter of creating a CAD file that I can print on decal paper and get it to come out correctly. FYI - this particular scale is an odd-ball in the hull no. decal world - none currently available that I know of. There are a few other items to be drawn up (also numerals and simple symbols, etc.) which I'll include on the sheet, but the hull numbers are the main attraction. Once again, thanks! Hank
  13. Pete, Thanks for the reply! I am not at my workshop (where all my decal printing kit is located), but will check out the YouTube tutorials you suggested. I am familiar with the Win10 photo editor as it is a pretty good editor compared to earlier versions. When I get back to my shop next week, I'll look to see if the decal paper had any instructions with it. Perhaps by then I will have decided on a particular .jpg to use for the new decals and will have scaled it according to my needs. Hank
  14. OK, I'm at a total loss as to how to even BEGIN to use this software. There are no instructions about anything - PERIOD!!! Help doesn't work on Windows 10 O.S. At this point, I would just as soon uninstall and figure the cost of this piece of S$#%%!!! program down the drain!! I've just spent 2 hours trying to figure out ANYTHING about how to import existing photos for making them into decals without any form of success. It went downhill from there!!!! If anyone has a CLUE about how to go about starting this thing, please let me know!! Thanks, Hank
  15. Nick, I ordered it from Hobbylinc online - www.hobbylinc.com Hope this helps! Hank
  16. Rusty, Thanks for the reply. This will be a new facet of model building for me. I've had others create decals for me from my CAD drawings, but this will be a first for me. I expect the kit in the mail within a week or so. We'll see what happens at that point. Hank
  17. I just purchased the Testors Decal Making Kit (Tes 9198) which includes a software CD - two questions come to mind: 1) Has anyone had any experience using this kit for making Custom decals? 2) If so, can online clip art/designs be imported to use with this software? Thanks, Hank
  18. Michael, This website is quite useful!! Thanks for the find. I usually draw up scales in CAD, but this will save time. Hank
  19. Thanks, Mark - much appreciate the comments. Hank
  20. Gil - appreciate the comments! I wish I had time to keep up w/2 or 3 forums, but still working full time leaves little time for posting in more than one locale. Hank
  21. SJ, Thanks for the reply, but after checking Starfighter website I see they don't offer the hull numbers, etc.- only flight deck & hanger markings for a 1/144 scaled carrier.
  22. Gil, Thanks for the welcome. To be honest, building an IOWA class bb is not a simple affair. To be accurate in representation it takes research, time, patience, and I've found that in the 5 years I've been working on this model (yea, I'm not in a rush!) I'm still finding new items to research that had not yet presented themselves. Having served on BIG JAY 68-69 was a big help, but my scarce photos and cruise books were really not anywhere sufficient to provide me the correct info/drawings, etc. to do it right. While from 1st glance the ship doesn't seem to have many alterations from her Korean War config., that's a misnomer. I, as a professional 2d Facilities CAD designer/draftsman (the corp. titles me an "engineer" :smiley13: ), I have drawn up quite a number of CAD drawings in order to create parts needed that aren't available and also have designed 3 sheets of PE that none of the 3rd party vendors have available (my 3rd sheet is awaiting printing). So, bearing all this in mind, I am just now getting the main deck equipment in place. I'll stop the dissertation here, because I could write a book (fairy tale? :smiley5: ) on everything that's had to be modified in the kit to get to this point. One other thing - I built this model Top Down - i.e. the superstructure first because it took a couple of years to decide how to try to correct the misshaped hull - Trumpeter seems to have made a career of hulls that are incorrect in their ship model line. These photos were taken at various stages and the 3rd and 4th photos are a mock-up of the model to take to a meeting of the Carolina Ship Modelers a year or so ago at their Dec. meeting in Beaufort, NC: I post a build of this kit on The Ship Model Forum so that's where you can find "the rest of the story". Hank Please excuse my photography - that's also a work in progress :smiley29:
  23. I am looking for Modern USN Hull Numbers/Names Decals for 1/144 scale. While a couple of vendors list them for sale, they are NOT! Either the decals are out of stock or have never been offered for sale. Thanks very much!
  24. I've been a ship modeler since the early 1950s. I normally post on The Ship Model Forum as well as ModelShipWorld (occasionally). I enrolled mainly to see what others are doing and their techniques, etc. My current (2012 - ) build is a 1:200 kit bash of Trumpeter's MISSOURI kit into the 1967-69 Configuration of USS NEW JERSEY (BB-62) - My last duty station. I've got a couple others in the queue so my plate is covered up! I find the forums are good sources for unknown parts, services, and techniques - the internet has been a great gift to modelers of all types.
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