Jump to content

count0

Member
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by count0

  1. If you like it that's fine. I do not. I have plenty of experience with 3M products having worked for 15 years of my life in an Auto body shop. I do not choose to use it. Saving money by working with something I think is inferior is false economy, and annoying, in my opinion. The original post in this thread asked how we would mask sharp lines. I stated my method. You stated yours. If you like your method, great, but I do not have to agree with it. Don't keep harping on it though, and let the person who asked for help make up there own mind. Cheers, John
  2. Are you asking me? :) I am not sure... In any case 3M fine line should be available at Auto Body supply places. Be advised that is is not as thin as Tamiya tape. Tamiya tape is about as thin as it gets. Avoid the green 3M fine line at all costs. it is no good for model use. The blue stuff is what you want. Note that it is a "plastic" tape, not like the blue 3M paper masking tape that is sold at home supply stores. Tamiya tape may be hard to find. Depends on how well stocked your LHS is. Ordering it online is probably your best bet. I live in California and Hobby shops here do carry it, but I have no idea about your area. If you need to make curved lines, I would suggest that you do what I do, which is cut Tamiya tape down into thin strips. Use a straight edge and some sort of hard, smooth surface (I use CD cases) and cut it into the size you think will make the bend you need. For 1/72 models you are probably going to have to do this no matter what tape you use. 3M fine line even at 1/16" will not make very tight curves. It is meant for use on 1/1 cars after all... You can then fill in the area behind this line that you want to protect with more tape. You could use your 3M tape for this, you only need the thin stuff right at the edge :) Cheers, John
  3. Switch to Tamiya tape. :) Seriously, it is the best. Make sure it is burnished down real well and apply paint very lightly, building up to the coverage you need. Then stop. Apply only what you need to get coverage. Hth, Cheers, John
  4. Very nice work. Subtle, which is hard to do and always looks best. Cheers, John
  5. Thanks Guys, glad you like it. Cheers, John
  6. There is a post in another area of this forum where the person posting was not adding all the photos that he wanted to use due to a photo limit. If there is a limit I am not aware of it. I have read the forum rules and nothing about a "photo limit" is stated there. Am I missing something? I am using Photobucket to store photos. So if all we are doing is linking to photos there should be no problem. Right? Cheers, John
  7. 1/12 Tamiya kit with a few mods. Scratch built stand for cowl. This was built a few years ago, for the 2001 Tamiya Con. My friend Sean and I had a challenge between us to build a bike in 2 weeks for the show. I managed to get it done, That meant no sleep the last 48 hours, though...... Sean's suffered a mishap and was never finished. Cheers, John
  8. The instruction sheet is available also. Lots of ordnance included with this one. And the two I thought might be A-8's are listed as F's. I need to check some reference on that........ Cheers, John
  9. That makes sense, just seems like a lot of them. Cheers, John
  10. Box art and markings posted on the Eduard site. Two of the options have the "flat" canopy an may be A-8's rather than F's. Interesting schemes though, and I am really looking forward to this one. Cheers, John
  11. Nice work. I have a question though, what's with all the red markings on the upper fuselage? Is that stenciling? If so for what? Thanks, John
  12. Try using less fluid, it only takes a little to get the job done. I have not had the "fogging" since I started applying very little of either Sol or Set. More future is usually the fix if it does happen :) Cheers, John
  13. Sanding the whole sheet before you remove any parts will help with adhesion, for gluing and painting. Just lay the etch fret on a sheet of 600 grit and move it back and forth a couple of times. The sand paper needs to be bigger than the etch sheet, or else the edges will catch the etch and bend it up. Also, primer will help with making the paint a little more durable. I use Mr. Surfacer sprayed on lightly. Of course none of this will be of any use with the pre-painted stuff...... Cheers, John
  14. I tried using it for p/e, it just does not have the holding power for external use. But it would probably be OK for cockpit details. I think it is great for canopies and prep/sealing for decals. Cheers, John
×
×
  • Create New...