TheWalrus
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Posts posted by TheWalrus
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Check Ozmods. I don't know much about ships but they list Australian navy ships. They look like WWII destroyers to me. Resin kits for real modelers. <[;-) I see 1/700 on their site.
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Wow, I would second that request,!!! The F-101 is sweet. What are your thoughts on the Kittyhawk Models 1/48 F-94C? I am hoping to see mine Ina week or so.
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Robin, not to mention that the hologram of Earth was srikingly similar to what it now is, despite millions of years (?) of geological changes in the interim.
Then of course after puking out of their stasis induced stupor they immediately exited the ship (Prometheus) and went exploring the target. No checking out the lay of the land, atmospheric and pressure compatablilities and any other potential dangers first. I must have been asleep when what's her face got preggers but I think it stemmed from the little black micro-bot or something that the other dude put in another dude's drink for some unexplained reason. How it got to what's her face is beyond me.
There is the obvious explanation as to why the captain left the away party on their own without helping them by using the little mapping bots to help them out: i.e. "What to do, what to do?" - should I help the kids out of certain death in a gruesome manner or should I go do the deed with Charlize Theron? Oh, my. Decisions, decisions.
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Opinion?: Which do you think is #1 and #2 - Alien or Aliens
I am already seeing stuff on the net comparing the films. Interesting reading.
Amazon is already advertising pre-sales for the DVD's on Prometheus for when it is released. May or may not be a message there.
My opinion for greatest sci-fi films is: "Forbidden Planet"; "War of the Worlds" (George Pal version); Alien and Aliens. The first two scared the heck out of me when I was a tike in knee pants. By the way, the list is not in order because a comparison would not be fair due to the SpFX technology gap.
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So, would you like a "box review" when I get it in the next week or so?
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Could be. They have an F-94C in 1:48 arriving next week also. Only place I am seeing anything on these is Pacific Coast Models. They seem to have other unusual or non-mainstream brands. Nice people, too.
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Saw the film yesterday. 3-D version. 3-D good. Film so-so. The first two "Alien" films are the best of all time at this point. "Prometheus" is not even close.
My opinion.
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I am not allowed to ask where you are from, but since you say Kalamazoo I have suggestions for a CO2 supplier. I have found that sometimes NAPA stores carry them or other gas bottles such as Nitrogen. Also try local welding supply sellers. I also believe you might try drinking soda (Coke, Pepsi, etc. may sell you a bottle of (CO2). Kalamazoo can't be that small. I live near Port Townsend WA and it's not a very big place. I can get CO2 at the NAPA store and at Air Supply (a welding supply house). Both are national outlets. Good luck.A good thread. I generally use three airbrushes. Like Gil, I have one for broad painting, one for finer detail and one for Future. I use the Grex Tritium for broader work. It fits the hand well and is easy to sweep from side to side. I use a Sotar 20/20 for most finer work. I build 1/72 so I don't use a lot of paint. It is the easiest to clean so I use it more. I got mine at the Chicago Nats. Finally, for Future, I use an old Testors brush. My thinking is that everything in the brush is plastic so it is easier to get the future out of it.
I have used CO2 and loved it. My current problem is that I can't find a good source of refill where I live now so I am using a Badger Model 180 compressor. I run a tube from the compressor to my old CO2 bottle and feed the airbrush from the regulator connected to the bottle. That way, I can control the pressure plus, when the bottle gets full, the compressor will shut off. The compressor is also located a long way from my paint area so it is quieter. Finally, I use quick-connect connectors to attach the airbrushes to the bottle. It is easy to disconnect one brush and connect another without shutting off the compressor.
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What? No admiring comments on the pristine work area??? :gold-plane:
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Thanks. Will look forward to it.i bought aftermarket from Squadrom/True details. Looks just like the kit parts. Kit has no detail in the wells. Review posting look like they are taking quite a while to go up. Steve C. does the editing and has trouble getting the free time problems to do them. Probably has to make a living and feed his family. <{:-)David my review should be posted soon you may want to look it over before you get to far along with the landing gear.
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Taping up for cement to cure.
Another view
Engine assy attached
Oblique view of engine detailing
Had a photo of cockpit area too, but it disappeared into the ether. Progress in last two weeks was mostly removal of the tape.
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I presume you mean Google SketchUp. It's from Trimble and is somehow connected to Google. The do have a free version and also sell a "Pro" version. Google it or just use this link: http://sketchup.google.com/intl/en/product/index.htmlA free app named, "Goggle SketchUp" will do the trick.
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Great. I forgot about "Future" floor polish. I had heard that a few drops added to a gloss paint for an automobile or race care will give a really high shine. Can't verify yet.That was a pretty good list. About all that I would add are;
- Future. Currently sold as Pledge. My standard gloss coat for under decals etc.
- Glad Press 'n Seal. I use it as an easy masking material. I cut patterns out of it as well as using a big sheet to cover vast areas that I don't want to paint.
- Tooth Picks. Great for stirring and getting into small areas.
- Lighter fluid. I use lighter fluid for cleaning surfaces and removing some light over spray. I find it less "hot" than other thinners.
- Q-tips. For wiping and cleaning in small areas.
- Cosmetic Applicators. These are similar to q-tips but are more compressed plus they have a pointed end.
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Just a pin prick to see if you were paying attention. :DYou've been trying hard to get my attention, David.
Now you have it.
Please play nice. Your suspension was for violating the forum rules, nothing else.
If you recall, you were suspended for trolling the forums to trick members into going to a questionable modeling Web site (which has had the content removed thanks to action by the then-current e-board) and were told to stop.
Let this one go. It's old news and you've been given a second chance to post here.
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So what is your favorite modeling magazine and why?
I have three:
Airfix Magazine because it has a reasonable price compared to others from the UK. Also excellent content.
AFV-Air Modeler because it is full of excellent detailed build articles that can teach
Windsock Magazine because, although it is highly focused on WWI it is an outstanding history and model building magazine. The series of build articles over the last 12 or more months teach techniques applicable to any scale moideling genre or era.
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I liked the H&S also when I saw it at the Phoenix and Omaha conventions. I already had a Grex purchased at a local art supply store and found that I could control the tool easier due to the pistol style grip. It is also a double action but I could use a pre-set that made it more controlable because I have difficulty with fine motor skills in my hands. I never had a gravity feed brush before but decided to give it a try by swapping out the feed style from side siphon to side gravity attachment on the model I had. I now have decided that the gravity feed is the way to go for the reasons you stated.I'm currently using 2 airbrushes, a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity, and a H&S Evolution. I picked up the Infinity at the 2008 VB Convention, and have been head over heels in love ever since. A couple years later I picked up the Evolution as a back up since the internals are pretty much the same as the Infinity. Now I have both of them hooked up full time with a manifold and change back and forth constantly depending on what I want to do. I keep the Evolution set up with the .2 or .4 needle/nozzle for doing general spraying and the Infinity set up with the .15 needle for stuff like free hand camo.
Both are gravity feed with small cups. I like the gravity feed because it requires less pressure, and with the smaller cup, I waste less paint. If I'm spraying a big job, I'll just mix up a bunch of paint in a 1 oz plastic cup and re-fill the AB cup as needed. I also find the smaller cup preferable as it gets in my way and blocks my view less than the larger cup. There are three things I really love about both brushes. First is the self centering nozzle which makes it possible to withdraw the needle out of the front end of the brush, which gets far less paint into the inner workings of the brush. Second is the design of the paint bowl. It is truly a bowl with no square edges for paint to collect in, making clean up very easy. And third is the action of the triggers. The Infinity is slightly smoother than the Evolution, but both are much smoother and easier to control than any other airbrush I've ever used. I've gone from using cheap Harbor Freight brushes, to a cheap a cheap Aztek, to a Badger Anthem 155, to a Bear Air Peak, to a Thayer and Chandler, and finally the H&S's. I also used a Hobby LObby 40% off coupon to pick up the gravity fed Neo by Iwata several months ago. Boy am I glad I only paid about $25 for that thing. Despite being a double action brush, it really only has two air flows, full on and full off. And it's really cheap on the inside. I don't think I'd recommend it to anyone.
As for an air supply, I've used the $89 Harbor Freight AB compressors for about 9 years. I've now got two of them and they work fine and are pretty quiet. I am also strongly considering moving to CO2. The total quiet is really appealing to me.
As for paint, I use Tamiya almost exclusively. Most of the time I thin it with 70% Iso Alcohol, but if I want a really smooth finish, I'll thin it with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. It really lays down beautifully with that. But of course one has to deal with the odor and toxicity issues. Regardless of which thinner I use, I spray it very thin. At least 50/50, and more likely closer 25/75 paint to thinner ratio. It takes longer to build up, but I get great control and can spray anything I want with almost no build up on the needle of clogging. Sometimes, depending on temperature or humidity I imagine, I do suffer a bit with build up and clogging, but it really isn't often and is easy to address with a q-tip dipped in thinner.
But as I tell anyone who asks, what I said above is only what works for me. Anyone else will have to do what I did. Experiment until they find what works for them. Feel free to start from what I've said, but don't think it will absolutely work for you. I once listed for a friend everything I could think of that would or could affect how an AB session would go. It went something like this, in no particular order:
- Airbrush type
- Airbrush condition
- Paint
- Thinner
- Paint/Thinner ratio
- Air source
- Air pressure
- Temperature
- Humidity
- One's mood
- One's wife's mood
- Phase of the moon/alignment of the planets
- Alcohol consumption
- Urgency of getting the painting done
I'm sure there are others, and I'm not so sure how much of a joke the 11th and last points are!
Mike
I switched from a compressor to CO2 and never looked back, several years ago. You won't regret it. All you really need to buy is the two stage regulator and perhaps a hose adapter. the bottle is cheap and once you have one you just take it back and they hand you an new one that is full. You just pay for the gas.
It's silent and all you hear is the airbrush hissing while you are using it. That way you can sneak out of the bed in the middle of the night and paint at 0200 or so.
Some people claim nitrogen is better, but I can't say one way or they other. I am still on my first CO2 bottle. The claim is that nitrogen is "dry" and you don't get condensation. I have never had a problem with that so can't verify.
I know some guys who plumbed a manifold with fittings for multiple brushes so they don't have to switch. Mostly graphics artist people, but it can certainly apply to modelers.
In my case, as far as thinning goes I just wing it. If it runs down the side of the mix container like skim milk I consider it good enough. Works for me. I used to use an eye-dropper and counted ou the drops of each, but what a pain, not to mention replacing the droppers on occasion.
Ever tried airbrushing a figure?
What do you use as a masking material? Frisket; tape; Parafilm? I never had much luck with the Silly Putty/Blue Tac stuff. I have seen some Brit magazines which demonstrate cutting a pattern and then using spaceres between the pattern and the surface to get a light feather. What do you think of that method?
I, too, use the Tamiya paints. Really like the acrylics for coverage, clean-up, and genral quality. I don't know what your Tamiya lacquer thinner is. I use their "X-20A" acrylic thinner. to thin the paint, but then do the clean up using Windex.
- Airbrush type
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Gil, it also begs th question of the accuracy in scale of a particular scent. For example would anyone notice if a 1/32 tank in a forest diorama's scent was in 1/48 scale? For that matter how do you "scale" a scent? What if one of the rivet counters declares that the scent is a of a Blue Spruce when the forest is clearly consisting of Douglas Firs? Like everything, it gets complicated the more you think about it.There are no rules preventing the use of scents on models, but then again, you may be entering an area with more minuses than pluses...
First, how do you add a scent AND control its strength? You want to have enough to be sure it's noticed, but too much could cause a negative reaction or distract the viewer from the scene to the scent; making it a detriment instead of an enhancement.
Second, scents react differently to different environments. If you add it in the air-conditioned comfort of your bench, and then transport it in the summer heat of your car, what does that do to it? Does it return to normal in the show room environment? Has it worn off over the time between building and showing? Do you need to "freshen" the scent from time to time, and how does that application affect the pieces in the diorama (dissolve paints? discolor/stain finishes? too strong when newly refreshed?)?
Third, there's always the rare chance that someone could be allergic to the scent you add, whether its a chemical allergy or a natural allergy to that particular substance (like peanuts). What are the ramifications for the builder and the host if THAT happens?
I think the items listed above are the reason you don't see "scented" models at shows. It's not that it hasn't been thought of, it's just the the potential rewards are miniscule compared to the work and risks involved. Still, if you think it's something that could greatly benefit your work and you can balance out the potential problems, go for it!
GIL
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Well, then, girls, if a lick or two on the warn status bar is a badge of honor and a good thing then being banned for 6-months is like the ultimate. I wear it proudly. If you manage to tick off enough of the right (wrong) people you must be doing something right. Especially when they feel the need to shut you up.
Uuurah!! :drillsergeant:
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Whatever works for you is what's best. Perhaps each is used for different jobs on a project. Or perhaps over time a collection is assembled much like a mechanic or woodworker. For example I bought my first airbrush in '69. As a mechanic in one of my past life's I had several screwdrivers and multiple micrometers, gauges and meters.Gil's post brings up something that makes me wonder--I have never found the need to reserve one airbrush for big jobs, one for fine detailing, one for metallics, etc. I use one airbrush. Period. In other words, I won't start a project with the 200, then fill in with the 150 or the 105, right now my airbrush of choice is the 105 and it does everything.
Anyone else do likewise? I'm always an advocate of "Whatever works"...
R
On the other hand perhaps some of us just like collecting airbrushed. Doesn't matter.
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But then consider the possibilities on the porn figures.
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Wow, the Badger 200 is the same I started out with in '69. Saw it on the net today and it hasn't changed a bit, other than the price. I had the same Paasche too.Right now, I'm using a Badger 105 Patriot. I like the gravity feed plus the "single needle/tip" design--the gravity feed means using less air pressure. The single needle/tip means that I don't have to remember to match a tip to the needle, it keeps things easy. My air supply is a Badger 180-1 compressor that has served me well for about 15 years. As far as cleaning goes, I shoot acrylics, which clean up well with Isopropyl Alcohol. Stubborn stuff comes off with ammonia. If I want to ultrasonically clean it, I place it in a container filled with water and drop in a couple of denture tablets. Works like a champ...
Previously, I have used the following (in no particular order):
Badger 200 (my first airbrush)--great "starter" airbrush.
Badger 150 (my second airbrush)--Badger's dual action airbrushes gave me a bit finer control than the competition.
Badger 350--very good, easy to use airbrush.
Binks Raven II--After the 105 and 150, this is my favorite "traditional" dual action airbrush.
Binks Wren--another great starter airbrush, not as easy to find as they once were.
Paasche H--a standard of the industry, very easy to learn, some people think there is no need to get anything else in our end of the hobby. I've seen people do better paint schemes with an H than others who use the top of the line dual action stuff...
Paasche VL--not a bad dual action, but I found I got better control with the 150 and the Raven II.
Testor Aztek 470, nee the "Model Master Airbrush"--great tool when they came out, I bought mine right after they were introduced. You couldn't beat a Lifetime Warranty. The airbrushes and tips were rugged and reliable. As time passed, though, it seemed like the tips didn't last as long--my first set of tips lasted a good five years before the needed replacement. Later tips would last six months, if I was careful. Then, Testor's changed the warranty to a Three Year warranty. They tend to develop leaks internally--somewhere out there, somebody posted a tutorial on how to disassemble the body and fix the leak. If you bought one with a Lifetime Warranty, they'll honor that...
Testor Aztek 320--not bad for $28 at Wal-Mart back in the late 1990's. It is decidedly an entry-level airbrush, but it uses the same tips as the 470.
Iwata (various models)--Iwata seemed to replace Paasche and Badger as the darlings of the scale modeling world back in the late 1980's, and they aren't bad tools. Some say the tips are fragile (my wife's tip stripped the threads)...
I have only test driven a few of the Grex line--they seem to be supplanting the Iwatas as the new darlings of the hobby. Same for the Harder and Steenbeck line.
As far as which one is best, that's very subjective, and the answer is easy--the one that works for *you*. I always advise people to hold the airbrush, and if they can, give it a test. Also, make sure your local emporium carries parts--nothing worse than being in the middle of a session and lose an O-Ring, only to find that you have to order one, and it won't be there for a day or so...
Cheers!
Ralph
I really like the Grex Tritium series. The handle pistol grip makes it really easy for me with the hand control problems. It is double action which I can't easily control but you can pre-set the needle and effectively use it as a single action. Perfect for me.
I discovered the brand at Phoenix convention. Jerry Carter Air Tools is the guy at the conventions. I recommend him highly. The Harder and Steenbruck line are also really good. Convention is a good place to try out all the different brands.
You are right about the hands on feel and it may be more important than brand. Like all tools what works for the individual at the best quality you can swing financially will never cause regret.
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I am sure in the dark abyss of past topics it has been covered but I was wondering if anyone wants to share airbrush experiences.
Ex.
- What brands and models do you use and why?
- Painting techniques
- Siphon feed vs. gravity
- Tip sizes you favor
- etc.
My first was a Badger that was single action and siphon feed; then over the years I advanced to Paasche and then Thayer & Chandler; then I moved up to an Iwata which I still have. All are siphon feed. I liked them because of the "pistol" grip feel of control with the paint bottle on the bottom. My current favorite is the Grex Tritium TS2 because it gives me a really good had fit and control due to a growing arthritis and carpal tunnel problem. I am purchasing another Grex in the Tritium series but thd TG2 which is a gravity feed.
I had heard that an ultrasonic cleaner would really do a nice job cleaning out dried paint but frankly I was less than impressed. Good thing it was under $20.
My "air" supply is CO2. Very controllable and only noise is the airbrush hissing. No moisture problems either. I have heard some guys use notrogen bottles.
So anybody want to jump in?
- What brands and models do you use and why?
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Nothing but the finest oils and greases used for your dining pleasure.That's OK! We'll just have more time to enjoy the 101 Diner!
1/48 and/or 1/32 F-101 and F-106
in I wish there was a kit of...
Posted · Edited by TheWalrus
I'm considering doing a "first look", but don't know if those who decide those thing will take a first look review.
I have the F-35 on order too. Pacific Coast Models is accepting pre-orders on it. Same place I ordered the F-94C. They have some interesting stuff if you poke around their site. MaryEllen is a kick to talk to.
I'd like to see a (current industry technology) P-80, T-33, F-89, F-94, F-100, F-101, F-102, F-104, F-105, F-106 and an F107. I know, I know there are kits out there for most, but current industry standards would be really nice to see. Most of those listed are pretty long in the tooth. I like 1/32 but 1/48 is good too.