TheWalrus
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Posts posted by TheWalrus
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I am hooked on WWI scale models with the introduction of the Wing Nuts kits. My old skills are slowly returning with this interest. I have been sztymied with the need for small parts, especially the turnbuckles for rigging. A railroading friend of mine suggested checking Grant Line products and eureka. They have scale nuts, bolts, washers, turnbuckles and lots more which can ber used in all phases of modeling. Prices are right, too. Look in their Augmentables section. http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/a...ables_pages.htm
Life is once again good.
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Thanks, you have pointed me in the right direction. Just what I was looking for and more.
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At the Nat's I saw packaged nuts, bolts, washers, and washer/stud combinations. I thought they were really expensive for the quantities. These items were really tiny and appear ideal for my applications. I believe the thingies were on the order of perhaps 1 - 2 milimeters.
Can anyone point me to sources for these? Dummy parts are o.k. as they will not be functional.
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Raptor photo is definitely an "Iron Bird" mock-up. A PR demonstrator for dragging around as a show and tell for ooohs and aaaahs.
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Hawkeye's (ne: SNJ) has a mix for the "metalic" Raptor Sheen colors used... Also check his "Talon" line for acrylics.
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Sorry to hear that others are having problems with the VOLKS Web site. I too missed the first run of the 1/32 Shinden, but placed a pre-order on February 22, 2010 on the Japanese site. I received a notice to pre pay on May 8th. I sent my credit card information and received a notice that my card would be charged when it was ready to ship. My card was not charged until July 17, and the kit was on my doorstep in California, Saturday July 24. I can only praise the service from the Japanese direct site. http://www.volks.co.jp/en/
I hope the problems others have had are the exception, and my experience is the norm.
By the way, the kit is AWESOME!
I wish I had followed your example. I have re-ordered but waited until a week or so ago. Volks-USA did jerk me around on the initial refund and I noter that they are now saying on their site that you don't get a charge back once you order. I think that it is still illegal to charge a card if you are not going to ship within 30 days. I cannot figure out how I order a Shinden and they charge me for a TA-152 being released in "Autumn 2010". Anyway, I hope to be seeing the Shinden in a week or so. I may order the extra detal sets but will do so only from Japan after I see the kit.
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David,
While I really cannot help you with the USA site, My card was just charged for the second run of the Shinden - I ordered mine from Japan direct.
I totally missed the first run, and by the time I realized the kit was actually out - it was sold out!
The ONLY other place I have really seen them for sale was eBay. I have read of persons who ordered kits direct and were pleased, but I cannot offer any personal insight...
Thanks. They seem to have a lousy business model. I think that ordering direct means you still have to deal with Volks but it is VolksJapan. Perhaps I will try that mode when I get my card credited back. My daughter-in-law is Japanese and she has offered to help. I guess it will work out in the end. Heck of a way to do business!
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I have used the Grex TS3 for a little over a week and am nothing less than impressed. It is much easier for me to control and use due to the trigger design. Yesterday I used my Iwata double action and was really frustrated and not satisfied with the way it went. It's not lick on the Iwata; just a lick on the double action push and pull design. It makes for a difficult task if you have carpal and arthritus.
The selling point for me with the Grex is that it is a double action design but can be preset for paint flow. Preset is good for me because I don't havre to adjust and hold the air/paint flow on the fly
The cons are: price; (apparent) size of feed pipes from paint container seems to be not the more common; paint bottles are twize as tall as common Badger, Iwata, Pasche, etc. sizes. Also, glass bottle has larger mouth which, so far, has pinned me to their bottles for extras.
Pro's more comfortable handling and adjustment, ease of use, really cool bright lime green handle color.
Conclusion: No way would I not recommend this airbrush. By the way, Iwata makes a look-alike but I believe it is more expensive and it isn't the cool color.
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David,
I'd love to hear your experiences using the Grex trigger-pull airbrush! Please share your take on it....
I have used the Grex TS3 for a little over a week and am nothing less than impressed. It is much easier for me to control and use due to the trigger design. Yesterday I used my Iwata double action and was really frustrated and not satisfied with the way it went. It's not lick on the Iwata; just a lick on the double action push and pull design. It makes for a difficult task if you have carpal and arthritus.
The selling point for me with the Grex is that it is a double action design but can be preset for paint flow. Preset is good for me because I don't havre to adjust and hold the air/paint flow on the fly
The cons are: price; (apparent) size of feed pipes from paint container seems to be not the more common; paint bottles are twize as tall as common Badger, Iwata, Pasche, etc. sizes. Also, glass bottle has larger mouth which, so far, has pinned me to their bottles for extras.
Pro's more comfortable handling and adjustment, ease of use, really cool bright lime green handle color.
Conclusion: No way would I not recommend this airbrush. By the way, Iwata makes a look-alike but I believe it is more expensive and it isn't the cool color.
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I saw the kit for Zoukei-mura's company's Shinden in Tamiya's recent magazine. Last page. It really looks great! They also are in the process of coming out with a TA152. Both are in 1/32 scale and from the photo's are amazing in detail.
I pre-ordered both kits from their affiliated site Volksusa.com. Then it gets complicated. They have no real release date for either model. (Shinden is in 2nd production run, alledgedly). TA152 will be out in "Autumn". Volks USA has charged my card for the TA152 for "Autumn" release and the second production run Shinden, scheduled for (Maybe a month or two release has not been charged.
I believe it used to be and probably still is illegal to charge a credit card with more than 30-days prior to shipping. Most business practice is to charge when an item is shipped.
Zoukei-mura's site is confusing and stilted in English due to culture and language structural differences and the Volks USA site is worse. I have spoken to Volks USA customer service and the rep is helpful but gets glassy eyed.
Anyone else have experience with these people or know of a place that sells these kits and knows what they are doing?
Enquiring minds want to know.
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Great advice and information. The Badger and the Paasche are cheap enough that I might give both a try. I have had a Badger (can't remember model no. but purchased in about 1970) and the Paasche and I do think it was a modle H. I am also going to try your idea of trying out a blob of silicon on the trigger of the dual action Iwata HP-BCS.
Any thoughts on gravity feeds as opposed to siphon feed. My only experience was with the siphon feed.
Addendum. After all the great advice from everyone regarding my airbrush and paint colors question I went to my local art supply house. The intent was to purchase a Paasche and/or Badger as advised. Looking in the display case my eye was drawn to a flourescent green thing. Turned out it was the handle on a Grex Tritium Series TS3. It had all the features I was asking for and more. The trigger style took care of the arthritus and carpal situation; it was double action, but could be preset which essentially made it single action; it can be set up with gravity cups or siphon feed and feed can be connected from either side of the brush depending on preference and handing. Well, what could I do? I asked the price and after recovery I bought it. I haven't tried it yet because the low pressure gauge on my tank has failed and a replacement won't arrive until Friday.
If anyone is interested I will pass along my experience with this thing in the Tips and Techniques Forum.
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Has anyone made a purchase from this company. I am looking at the Roden engine sets and they are selling them for a reasonable price. I am hoping that they are a US company, but think maybe eastern European. Hobbyterra.com
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If you are looking for pre-mixed colors, you might want to try the Mr Kit line. They are a small specialty Italian line aimed at WWI aviation. I've never used the paint, but I've also never heard of anyone saying the colors are wildly innaccurate. Here's a link to their US distributor. http://www.misterkitusa.com/Page2.html
Generally though, if you don't want to go the Mr Kit line, I'd go ahead an mix what you want. As Gil stated, there were no standards, and colors varied pretty widely.
Mike Moore
Thanks, Mike. I decided to buy the Tamiya colors as called out in the instruction sheet. I decided to follow Gil's advice about color choice. However I am going to check out the Misterkit line in the future.
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David -- As far as single-action airbrushes, you can do a few different things. One would be the Badger 200 as suggested, which a lot of people use, a Paasche H, which I have and like, and another that seems to be quite popular, or go with a Paasche VL, which is technically an internal mix double action. However, there is a knob on top that sets the trigger at a predetermined rearward position, essentially creating a single action brush. I also lack some of that control and coordination for the same reasons you do. Personally, I prefer Paasche over Badger mainly due to the trigger/button. I just don't like the way the Badger trigger feels, and my finger keeps slipping off it, which doesn't happen with any of the Paasche airbrushes I have (H, VL and VSR). I've been considering putting a blob of silicone on the Badger trigger and trying that, but I just haven't gotten around to it yet. It may make me appreciate the Badger more, who knows. And for whatever it's worth, it has been my experience with Paasche that they are as generous with repair work.
Great advice and information. The Badger and the Paasche are cheap enough that I might give both a try. I have had a Badger (can't remember model no. but purchased in about 1970) and the Paasche and I do think it was a modle H. I am also going to try your idea of trying out a blob of silicon on the trigger of the dual action Iwata HP-BCS.
Any thoughts on gravity feeds as opposed to siphon feed. My only experience was with the siphon feed.
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David: there are no "FS" numbers for WWI colors. The colors used varied way too much, from country to country and manfacturer to manufacturer, and FS hadn't been invented yet. There are some Munsel color equivalents, but good luck on tracking down a good source for those! You'll see references to that in the Windsock Datafile WWI books when covering color info.
The Brits used "PC-10" for a lot of their stuff. It's the WWI equivilant of OD green, and like the WWII OD colors, it can vary from a dark green to a khaki brown; depending on manufacturer paint batch and exposure to the weather. "Clear Doped Linen" is another common WWI color that was essentially a clear dope placed over the plain uncolored fabric to seal it and shrink it taut. However, depending on the number of coats, exposure to the elements, and its age it could be a light gray, light buff, a yellow tan, or even a bit of an orange tan (think "shellac").
Metal parts were generally painted gray, if not painted in a squadron color. Keep in mind there were NO "aircraft" paints; they hadn't been developed! Automotive paint and other paints for metal surfaces would have been used, and the colors would have been whatever was available for commercial use. There was some bare metal panels on some planes, especially Sopwith Pups and Camels. Very few would have been highly polished, and even if they started off with a shine, they would dull quickly in service. Field maintenence wouldn't worry about that, and it was too early for them to really worry about corrosion yet.
Plain wood for WWI planes is a technique all to itself, and varies from builder to builder. My best suggestion is to go to Hyperscale.com and check out the other Wingnuts builds posted there, especially the LVG builds. There are several good "tutorials" on how to get a nice looking plain wood finish.
In short, those paint call-outs in the instructions should be good enough. If you can get the Humbrol stuff, they probably have more dedicated WWI colors than most other manufacturers. If not, decide what shade of dark green and underside tan you want to put on the Pup and then find the closest approximates in your favorite paint brand. Best of luck!
GIL
Thanks, Gil. I knew that FS numbers were not used but I thought it would give a cross reference between brands. I decided, that on your advice, I would buy the Tamiya acrylics called out in the instructions. As you say, they should be good enough and besides who can argue the accuracy?
Thank yuou also for the discussion and Hyperscale site. I avoided WWI aircraft, mainly due to the rigging pain, but after seeing the Wingnut offerings and checking out the hugely improved modeling materials, including the stretchy rigging material, I have brecome hooked. My Sopwith Pup is moving along slowly but at my ager there is no hurry. Besides I will never get to the bottom of the stacks in the garage, anyway.
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The Badger 200 is a very good, fairly inexpensive single action airbrush, made right here in the good ole USA. In addition, Badger will let you send one of their airbrushes in, no matter how old, and they will, clean it and put it back in factory specs for you at no charge. They even pay to ship it back to you. They reserve the right to charge you for parts if parts need replacement, but i just sent two in, one of which, 20 years old, had a broken air valve. They replaced parts in both brushes and sent them back no charge. You can't go wrong with a Badger 200 for a single action brush.
Thank you. I will check it out. The Badger brand was the first airbrush I ever had, purchased in early 70's. I have also recently heard good things about the Badger Company's servicing policy.
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I am building the Wingnuts Wings Sopwith Pup. Paint references are given by manufacturer and callout number. (ie. Tamiya XF**, Humbrol **, Misterkit BC**) I am looking for accurate pre-mixed colors or something like Model Master FS numbers. I would consider the instruction sheet callouts as close enough for government work only.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a good to high quality single-action airbrush. I have an Iwata double-action but it requires a lot of hand/finger coordination which my arthritis and carpal tunnel thing is making difficult. My preference would be for a bottom feeding or siphon type rather than gravity.
I am using a CO2 bottle and two stage regulator for "air" source. It has no higher start-up cost than a decent compressor and sure beats the pants of it. The only thing you hear is the slight hiss when you are actually spraying and it is more accurate as far as pressure control. Empty bottles are swapped out for a refilled one and the cost is very low.
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Perhaps over a year or so one of you good folks sold me a 1/48 TA-152. I believe you used to live in Dayton but now living in Kentucky(?). Could you please contact me. Has nothing to do with the kit so don't worry.
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I have some EZline. I tried to use it once without much success. Simply put, trying to put an end into the locating hole for a section of rigging was like trying to shoot pool with a limp piece of spaghetti (to paraphrase George Burns). It may have been ME, but I couldn't get it to work for rigging. I've also HEARD it doesn't react well to superglue. Since you have to stretch it into place and immediately bond it while tensioned, no other glue is really practical. Again, since I couldn't even get it into the locating hole, I don't personally know if the superglue will work or not. That said, I just started a Halberstadt CL.II and I do plan to try it again. I've had the best success rigging with sprue, and some success with very thin monofiliment line; but it's REALLY frustrating when you heat it to tighten it and it breaks in two! The elasticity of the EZLine would solve that problem! Also, I have heard of some modelers that have used it and are very happy with it! Contact Bobe's and give it a try; you'll only be out a few dollars if it doesn't work. Best of luck!
GIL
And thankyou, too, Gil. I am going to order it and give it a try.
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You may be thinking of EZLine. I saw at the Nats in VA Beach. http://www.bobeshobbyhouse.com/ezl.html
Eureka! That's the stuff. Thank you, Mr. Hanson.
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The elasticity of the EZLine would solve that problem! Also, I have heard of some modelers that have used it and are very happy with it! Contact Bobe's and give it a try; you'll only be out a few dollars if it doesn't work. Best of luck!
World War I Parts
in Aircraft
Posted
Ooops. Be careful, that is my daughter. My error in cutting and pasting. Should have paid more attention. Here it is http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/a...ables_pages.htm