Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by TonyD

  1. Working on my first ship model in a long time, the Tamiya Waterline series Scharnhorst. The images I found show most turreted guns; the large main guns plus some of the Aux 150 mm guns, have 'shrouds' where the gun barrels exit the turrets. I'm guessing these were canvas weathershields or some such. They appear to be a natural or buff color. Anyway, I was wondering what methods of simulating these might be? I was thinking of applying white glue to simply fill in the gaps (the model is 1/700 scale so the parts are quite small) and then painting them. In the past I used wet tissue applied with white glue for similar 'shields' around 1/35 scale tank turreted guns. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  2. Thanks again, Jim. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
  3. Sorry, just noticed that you provided a link to your video. Still have a question on the hair spray; you say you applied the "hairspray through the airbrush"? Beautiful model by the way, out of my league!
  4. Thanks Jim! Yes, I am planning to use Tamiya acrylics. So do I use a fairly stiff brush to scrub with? Perhaps cut the bristles back to make them stiffer? Should I work the paint before it completely dries or does it not matter? Is there a preferred type or make of hairspray to use?
  5. I would like to apply a winter camo finish to a Pz IV model simulating the "whitewash" that was used in the field. In a search I found a method where hairspray is applied over the base color (in my case Panzer Gray), then apply white acrylic paint. When dry, scrub the paint with diluted windex. Then I came across an article where someone used a Tamiya 'Snow' weathering stick. When I went to find this product I could only find it on eBay (for $10 each!); it seems to be discontinued. So my questions are: Is the hairspray method the way to go (I'm sure it will take practice on some scrap plastic), or is there another technique? Should I splurge for the weathering stick or is there another similar product available (again, I'm sure I'll need to practice)? Thank you
  6. Thanks, John! I went onto AZmodels website, found the kit and the 3-views!
  7. Thanks John. I don't have that Airframe & Miniature so I'll need to pick one up. There are a couple kits from AZ models; I looked up this a/c in Scalemates and found copies of the instruction sheets which include painting instructions but they were all H-1 models. Working from Gruppe 123 is a good idea...
  8. The BF-109H was a high altitude version of the BF-109. It had extended wingspan and larger stabilizers and rudder. The H-0 was the initial prototype built using a BF109-F airframe of which I believe only 1 was built. The H-1 was a follow-on model using BF-109G airframes (different engine). I am building a model of the H-0 using an Airmodel vacuform conversion kit I bought a long time ago. I also bought the SMER BF109-F4 to use as the base kit. The instructions state the aircraft (H-1) is to be painted overall RLM02 Gray with codes DV+JS. They don't give a scheme for the H-0. I have not been able to find any material on color or codes for the H-0 except for William Green's Warplanes of the Third Reich which gives the code as DV+JB. Monogram's Official Painting Guide to German Aircraft states that typically prototype aircraft were finished in the color scheme of the eventual service aircraft which contradicts the conversion kit painting instructions. Just wondering if anyone could point me to some info on this aircraft? Probably shouldn't have picked a one of a kind to model! Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks for the idea, Ed. I was planning to use small aftermarket wheels like tail wheels but haven't started looking yet. If I can't find any I'll try your suggestion.
  10. Would like to build a trolley for my 1/72 scale V1 Buzz Bomb. Have several good photos and even found an instruction sheet from a larger scale model. It looks to have been made from steel tubing but has wheeled casters at each corner. Wondering if there is an aftermarket supplier for these? Tried a Google search and nothing came up. Alternatively, anyone have any tips for making them? Thanks for any responses.
  11. TonyD

    German Cross Decals

    Thanks for your reply. I did find a sheet on eBay by Peddinghaus in 1/72 scale. They seem to have several different sheets and scales. Kind of expensive and I would rather get more of the whit outline style, but I think it will work. I'll see when it arrives.
  12. I'm looking for a sheet of 1/72 scale WWII German cross decals, preferably with different sizes and styles. These are to replace some bad kit decals, use on conversions etc. I found some examples from Warbird and Archer, but they aren't available. I did find an image of one and tried to copy it onto white decal paper, but that is a real pain to cut out the white outline cross style. Appreciate any input or comment!
  13. Thanks, Nick. Yeah, I'm thinking the kit fuselage may be too narrow... I have the Dragon kit packed away, when I get a chance I'll dig it out and take a look. Thanks for the feedback!
  14. I have the Airmodel vacuform conversion kit #106 that includes the 2 seat version of the Do-335 fighter that I bought in the '70's. It uses the Lindberg 1/72 kit as the basis (that I also have). Just looking for anyone that might have made this conversion. I cut out the second seat canopy and dorsal fairing and cut a (preliminary) hole in the top of the model. My initial thoughts are that the conversion will involve more that just gluing the conversion part onto the model as the kit instructions say. The conversion part seems too wide based on photos I have of the 2-seat aircraft. At the time, of course, the only kit available of this aircraft was the Lindberg kit, and no 2-seat version. Has anyone tried this? Thanks!
  15. I recently purchased the DetailUp 1/35 US, German uniform insignia decal sheet, 63335C, and am looking for a reference sheet. The decals have ID numbers that must be contained someplace. The seller could not help me. Please see attached; any help is very much appreciated! Thank you DetailUp 63335C US German Decal Sheet.docx
  16. Thanks for all the comments. It looks like what I'm calling the hassle of cleaning is 'the nature of the beast' if I'm going to use an airbrush. If you've stumbled on any of my previous posts, I'm recently retired and have accumulated a number of kits and supplies and am getting back into modelling. Unfortunately, a lot of those supplies are enamel paints - Testor's and Model Master. I haven't tried acrylics yet and maybe I should as it seems like it would be easier than handling all that laquer thinner! Keep 'em coming! I'm still waiting for suggestions on mixing/thinning paint prior to airbrushing.
  17. Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am not using a storage tank.
  18. I have a Paasche VL airbrush and D500 compressor that I bought probably 30 years ago and haven't used in maybe 15 years. Decided to break it out this week. I took it apart, cleaned it and set it up to spray water. Looks like its working fine, and now to try some paint. But first I have some questions that date back to my last sessions using the tool. I did a search for 'airbrush techniques and basics' but didn't return any relevant results. I've read that 20 psi is a good starting point for spraying pressure. I have my regulator set to 20 psi at 'idle', but I notice that the pressure drops to approx 10 psi when flowing. Is this OK? Typically my paint jobs are not very big so I've only used the open spray cup (1/4 oz.). In the past I would use a pipette to put a couple drops of solvent in the bottom of the cup, followed by paint from the bottle, and then finish with a few more drops of thinned paint from the pipette. (After taking paint from the bottle and delivering it to the spray cup, I put the 'dirty' pipette in a small bottle of thinner, draw some up and put that mixture in the cup.) Then I use a toothpick to mix the paint in the cup. I figure the initial drops of solvent should be the first thing to go through the spray tip if I don't mix it completely for some reason. I would love to hear your comments on this! Of course I have thought of pre-mixing the paint, but this seems like it would waste more paint than I actually sprayed (transferring from mixing bottle to spray cup). I bought an airbrush holder; U-shaped wire thingy, but it seems no matter how I place it in the holder, between the hose fitting on the bottom of the brush and the spray cup, it won't sit like I would like it to, i.e. ready to pick up and use. I need to keep the spray cup off the brush and insert it after taking it out of the holder. Did I just buy the wrong type? The holder that came with the airbrush is sheet metal and actually works great, but it needs to be mounted flat to the work table whereas the wire one mounts to the side and holds the brush above the table. Finally, clean-up. I will usually pour any remaining paint from the spray cup back into the bottle. I have a jar with thinner ready that is large enough to immerse the spray cup and I put it in there to soak. I also have the 1 oz glass spray bottle ready with thinner and insert that into the airbrush and spray into a rag until clear. Paasche's instructions say I only need to remove the needle and clean it, so that takes care of the brush. But that leaves the following items to clean: spray cup, jar that it was soaking in, small thinner jar that got contaminated when I put the paint pipette into it, the pipette, and the 1 oz spray jar I used to clean the brush because inevitably when I remove it some color backflows into the bottle. Plus of course the mixing bottle if I used one. And this needs to be done for each color change. No wonder I haven't used it in 15 years! Am I making a bigger deal out of this than needs to be? Looking forward to your feedback.
  19. VonL - Regarding my last post, I decided not to mess with success and did coat each decal on the sheet rather than spraying a clear coat. As I said in my OP I have a lot of old kits to build so I'm going to be experimenting with these decal coatings. Unfortunately I 'lost' a decal for my F-18 (resulting in my initiating this thread) and I would like to avoid that situation in the future, so I'll probably coat all my decal sheets going forward. Your solution gives me another alternative.
  20. Thanks for all the tips. Nick - you reminded me that I had a bottle of Microscale Liquid Decal Film! Tell you the truth, I wasn't sure how to use this product! I coated a couple decals last night and applied them this morning and no issues! I might try Richard's suggestion next since I'm sure I'll have issues with the rest of the sheet, so rather than 'paint' each decal I can coat the entire sheet. Thanks again guys!
  21. Thanks! I'll give that a try!
  22. I'm working on a Hasegawa 1/72 F-18 "World Hornet" that I started probably 20 years ago. The decal sheet looks to be in new condition, but several of the decals that I've tried to apply fall apart when I go to apply them. I had this happen to a Tamiya 1/35 Sherman, but those decals looked 'checked' on the sheet. We have well water, so thinking that might be the issue (although other than the Sherman decals I haven't had any problems), I tried distilled water with the same result. What I'm doing is soaking the decal in a small tray of water, after a few seconds I'll pick it up by the corner of the paper and test an edge of the decal with a toothpick, then place it back in the water. When approx. half of the transfer will lift off the paper, I move it over to the model and try and slide it off using the toothpick. At this point anywhere I touch it, a piece comes off. I tried soaking for an extended period and then slide it off with my fingertip (broader surface) but it comes apart as I try and move it. Is this just what happens with age? If so I'm screwed because I have a couple hundred kits I want to build now that I'm retired!
  23. Hi David. Thanks for your reply; to answer your question, no, I didn't prime the body. Sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. Maybe I should be more consistent if I expect to get consistent results!
  24. I'm working on the AMT 1/25 scale 1953 Corvette model; circa 1996. Its a "snapfast" kit; I've always wanted a model of the '53 Vette and this must have been the only one available when I bought it. Anyway, the body is 1-piece, closed hood trunk and doors, molded in white plastic. I read somewhere that unpainted plastic looks like unpainted plastic, so I paint my car bodies. I shot it with a new can of Krylon gloss white paint and after it dried, the finish was flat! I figured the can must have been mis-labeled, never happened to me but stuff happens... So I finish painting the "chrome" trim etc. and shoot it with a (used) can of Glosscote - and it dried flat too! I live in north Phoenix and both paint jobs were done in about 80 degree weather, bone dry. Has this happened to anyone else? Any ideas? At first I was thinking maybe the plastic had something to do with the white drying flat but that shouldn't have anything to do with the cover coat. The instructions don't say anything about paint except a note on the box top about "no painting required". After the glosscote episode, I tried the Krylon on a piece of scrap and it dried glossy...
  • Create New...