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Everything posted by TonyD

  1. Jeff, I'll place an order on your website. I see that the product is airbrush ready, I typically use a brush, other than a need to apply multiple coats, do you have any other recommendations for use?
  2. Thanks, Jeff! I was wanting to pick up the paints at my local shop... maybe I'll see if he'll stock these?
  3. Thanks. I didn't notice if my shop carried those but its an excuse to go back!
  4. I haven't built a ship model in a while, so I broke out my USS Arizona and Missouri models. They need the following colors which I am having trouble finding. My local hobby shop has a good selection of paint products but not TruColor, where I found these listed (except the non-specular colors). Deck Blue 20-B (I did find a reference that AK 5001 is a good match) Navy Blue 5-N (by the color chart, Intermediate blue or dark sea blue might work) Haze Gray 5-H (I found a reference that MMP 114 or Tamiya XF-63 would work) Non-Specular Light Gray ACUS05 Non-Specular Blue Gray ACUS06 The last two are for the Kingfisher float plane. I appreciate any suggestions or comments; thanks in advance!
  5. Nice! Gives me something to shoot for!
  6. Great suggestion, Ron, and I think you found my problem. I tried a piece of aluminum foil and it stuck to the plastic so there must be a coating on the candy wrapper. I'll need to find another source for my gold foil! Thank you!
  7. I'm building the 1/200 scale Man in Space set from AMT which comes with Apollo Saturn 1B and V boosters including the Lunar Module. I want to wrap the LM in gold foil but am having issues getting it to stick. I searched this forum and found several builds where foil was applied but they didn't go into their method. I'm using the gold foil from Ferrero Rocher candies. The foil wraps the chocolate so I washed it first. I then applied some Microscale Micro Metal Foil Adhesive to the foil and let it dry as instructed. I tried several drying intervals with no success. I did note that the adhesive tends to puddle as I brush it on; it won't form a smooth coat. Looking for tips or suggestions. One other comment - the Foil Adhesive seems to be designed for smooth or flat sheets to simulate natural metal finishes, so maybe this isn't the correct situation to be using it. If so, is there another type of adhesive or glue I should be using? Thanks in advance.
  8. Working on my first ship model in a long time, the Tamiya Waterline series Scharnhorst. The images I found show most turreted guns; the large main guns plus some of the Aux 150 mm guns, have 'shrouds' where the gun barrels exit the turrets. I'm guessing these were canvas weathershields or some such. They appear to be a natural or buff color. Anyway, I was wondering what methods of simulating these might be? I was thinking of applying white glue to simply fill in the gaps (the model is 1/700 scale so the parts are quite small) and then painting them. In the past I used wet tissue applied with white glue for similar 'shields' around 1/35 scale tank turreted guns. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
  9. Thanks again, Jim. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
  10. Sorry, just noticed that you provided a link to your video. Still have a question on the hair spray; you say you applied the "hairspray through the airbrush"? Beautiful model by the way, out of my league!
  11. Thanks Jim! Yes, I am planning to use Tamiya acrylics. So do I use a fairly stiff brush to scrub with? Perhaps cut the bristles back to make them stiffer? Should I work the paint before it completely dries or does it not matter? Is there a preferred type or make of hairspray to use?
  12. I would like to apply a winter camo finish to a Pz IV model simulating the "whitewash" that was used in the field. In a search I found a method where hairspray is applied over the base color (in my case Panzer Gray), then apply white acrylic paint. When dry, scrub the paint with diluted windex. Then I came across an article where someone used a Tamiya 'Snow' weathering stick. When I went to find this product I could only find it on eBay (for $10 each!); it seems to be discontinued. So my questions are: Is the hairspray method the way to go (I'm sure it will take practice on some scrap plastic), or is there another technique? Should I splurge for the weathering stick or is there another similar product available (again, I'm sure I'll need to practice)? Thank you
  13. Thanks, John! I went onto AZmodels website, found the kit and the 3-views!
  14. Thanks John. I don't have that Airframe & Miniature so I'll need to pick one up. There are a couple kits from AZ models; I looked up this a/c in Scalemates and found copies of the instruction sheets which include painting instructions but they were all H-1 models. Working from Gruppe 123 is a good idea...
  15. The BF-109H was a high altitude version of the BF-109. It had extended wingspan and larger stabilizers and rudder. The H-0 was the initial prototype built using a BF109-F airframe of which I believe only 1 was built. The H-1 was a follow-on model using BF-109G airframes (different engine). I am building a model of the H-0 using an Airmodel vacuform conversion kit I bought a long time ago. I also bought the SMER BF109-F4 to use as the base kit. The instructions state the aircraft (H-1) is to be painted overall RLM02 Gray with codes DV+JS. They don't give a scheme for the H-0. I have not been able to find any material on color or codes for the H-0 except for William Green's Warplanes of the Third Reich which gives the code as DV+JB. Monogram's Official Painting Guide to German Aircraft states that typically prototype aircraft were finished in the color scheme of the eventual service aircraft which contradicts the conversion kit painting instructions. Just wondering if anyone could point me to some info on this aircraft? Probably shouldn't have picked a one of a kind to model! Thanks in advance.
  16. Thanks for the idea, Ed. I was planning to use small aftermarket wheels like tail wheels but haven't started looking yet. If I can't find any I'll try your suggestion.
  17. Would like to build a trolley for my 1/72 scale V1 Buzz Bomb. Have several good photos and even found an instruction sheet from a larger scale model. It looks to have been made from steel tubing but has wheeled casters at each corner. Wondering if there is an aftermarket supplier for these? Tried a Google search and nothing came up. Alternatively, anyone have any tips for making them? Thanks for any responses.
  18. TonyD

    German Cross Decals

    Thanks for your reply. I did find a sheet on eBay by Peddinghaus in 1/72 scale. They seem to have several different sheets and scales. Kind of expensive and I would rather get more of the whit outline style, but I think it will work. I'll see when it arrives.
  19. I'm looking for a sheet of 1/72 scale WWII German cross decals, preferably with different sizes and styles. These are to replace some bad kit decals, use on conversions etc. I found some examples from Warbird and Archer, but they aren't available. I did find an image of one and tried to copy it onto white decal paper, but that is a real pain to cut out the white outline cross style. Appreciate any input or comment!
  20. Thanks, Nick. Yeah, I'm thinking the kit fuselage may be too narrow... I have the Dragon kit packed away, when I get a chance I'll dig it out and take a look. Thanks for the feedback!
  21. I have the Airmodel vacuform conversion kit #106 that includes the 2 seat version of the Do-335 fighter that I bought in the '70's. It uses the Lindberg 1/72 kit as the basis (that I also have). Just looking for anyone that might have made this conversion. I cut out the second seat canopy and dorsal fairing and cut a (preliminary) hole in the top of the model. My initial thoughts are that the conversion will involve more that just gluing the conversion part onto the model as the kit instructions say. The conversion part seems too wide based on photos I have of the 2-seat aircraft. At the time, of course, the only kit available of this aircraft was the Lindberg kit, and no 2-seat version. Has anyone tried this? Thanks!
  22. I recently purchased the DetailUp 1/35 US, German uniform insignia decal sheet, 63335C, and am looking for a reference sheet. The decals have ID numbers that must be contained someplace. The seller could not help me. Please see attached; any help is very much appreciated! Thank you DetailUp 63335C US German Decal Sheet.docx
  23. Thanks for all the comments. It looks like what I'm calling the hassle of cleaning is 'the nature of the beast' if I'm going to use an airbrush. If you've stumbled on any of my previous posts, I'm recently retired and have accumulated a number of kits and supplies and am getting back into modelling. Unfortunately, a lot of those supplies are enamel paints - Testor's and Model Master. I haven't tried acrylics yet and maybe I should as it seems like it would be easier than handling all that laquer thinner! Keep 'em coming! I'm still waiting for suggestions on mixing/thinning paint prior to airbrushing.
  24. Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am not using a storage tank.
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