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About AZKevin

  • Birthday 06/09/1960

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Profile Information

  • FirstName
  • LastName
  • IPMS Number
  • Local Chapter
    Ernest A. Love Chapter (Prescott AZ)
  • City
  • State
  • Gender
  • Location
    Sedona AZ
  • Interests
    Mostly Japanese WW II IJN, IJA
  1. Nicely done and well made. But by the time you buy all the tools, supplies, and invest the time isn't the Flexi-file set up just as good and inexpensive?? Please don't misunderstand, I'm not trying to disparage your work here (I like making my own tools as well), a set of 4 flexi-files, 5 place file holder and 24 sanding strips (150, 280. 320, 400, and 600 grit) runs about $40. A single flexi-file and 17 assorted sanding strips runs about $12. I use mine on all curved surfaces (fuselage seams and wing leading edges especially).
  2. Hello Everyone, I hope no one is offended that I kind of 'stole' the topic title from the previous topic, but I couldn't resist. This is what I did after I got an old Hasegawa 1/32 P-51D on Ebay for $6.00 with no decals or box and a friend in my local IPMS chapter gave me some extra Nascar decals. Maybe not my best build (about 2 weeks), but it did take third place in the 'hypothetical' category at ModelZona (Nov. 2013). OK, OK, OK so there were only two other entries in the category Anyway, it was a fun build. When I do it again however, I will remove all raised detail from the kit.
  3. jcorley, Thanks for the info I'll delve into my camera settings and see what I can do. As for the html code for phi not coming thru - no worries, I have 4 years of Classical Greek under my belt in grad school so Greek is not 'Greek' to me :) Best wishes, Kevin
  4. Hello Everyone, I'm looking for basic information here. I have been taking photos of my models and I'm reasonably happy with the results (although there's always room for improvement). My main problem is getting clear photos of details (i.e. cockpits, landing gear wells, opened gun barrels, etc). I do not have a DSLR type camera, only a Samsung Digimax L60 compact digital camera at the moment. Has anyone tried making their own macro lens for a compact camera?? I've seen some info online about using the lens (or 2) from magnifying glasses. If so any ideas, help, etc would be greatly appreciated. At some point I would like to get a DSLR type camera - but as a 'starving college student' that's a ways down the road. Anyway thanks for any input. Best wishes, Kevin
  5. Hello Everyone, I hope all had a Good Christmas, Hanukkah, etc. I am building the old Frog 1/72 Westland Wyvern S4 for an older gentleman as a favor. He claims to be running out of time to build all of his stash and so has asked memebers of our local IPMS Chapter (Ernest A. Love) in Prescott AZ to all build one or two of his kits for him. I doubt very much that the decals in the kit will be usable and while I think all of the British roundels and other markings can be sourced from my spares I was wondering - Does anyone know how wide the Yellow and Black Operation Musketeer (Suez Crisis) stripes were? The Frog kit does not contain decals for these stripes, but I want to paint the model in that scheme. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
  6. A Brief update about the model. I will be donating the model to the family of Lt. Arthur Van Haren. Lt. Van Haren is to inducted into the Pima Air & Space Museum's Hall of Fame. The model will be placed in a display case at the museum along with other memorabilia donated by the family. Eric Halvorsen is the driving force behind getting his grandfather inducted and he and the rest of the family kindly suppiled me with the few existing pictures of Van Haren's Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat.
  7. Hello Everyone, Below are a few pictures of my F6F-3 Hellcat. The model is Eduard's 1/48 'Weekend' edition with some added photo etch in the cockpit. I used kit supplied and Superscale decals. Paints are a combination of Tamiya acrylics and Testors Model Master enamels. I built the plane to represent the Hellcat flown by Lt. Arthur Van Haren. Lt. Van Haren is considered to be the highest scoring U.S. Navy Ace from Arizona. He was born in Superior AZ (1920) and passed away in Dewey AZ (1992). During his service in the Pacific he scored 9 confirmed solo kills with 3 unconfirmed. 3 of his kills came on one flight during the Battle of the Philippine Sea (The Great Mariana's Turkey Shoot). Yes I know the national insignia is not right . I messed up the first set of decals by placing two of the 'Stars & Bars' upside down!! Guess that's what I get for building mostly Japanese stuff (there is no up or down to a Hinomaru) . Anyway, I didn't have time to order another set with the proper 'Stars & Bars' so I had to use those with the red surround (not right for June 1944). I built the model for a display by the Prescott AZ IPMS Ernest A. Love Chapter's display at the Prescott city library commemorating AZ's centennial celebration (2012). When the display is over I might consider removing the improper decals and applying the correct ones (right side up this time!). Of course I could just build another, hmmmm....so many models - so little time. Well despite my mess up - I hope you like it. In the photo above you can see a trace of the upside down Stars & Bars decal underneath the one with the red surround. There are a few more pictures at: http://s1134.photobu...6F-3%20Hellcat/ Taking a little vacation from the University until 1/16/2012, but then I'll be back with the A Models 1/72 Ki-78 'Ken' and Nichimo's 1/48 B5N2 Kate. Best wishes to all for a Happy New Year. Kevin
  8. Hello Everyone, Below are some photo's of my 'almost' completed RS Models Tachikawa Ki-94-II. The kit had a few fit issues but nothing really serious. Plastic, resin (engine & 1 exhaust outlet), photo etch, & decals. The kit is a rather good example (IMHO) of a low pressure, limited run kit and while it did take a bit more work than a Tamigawa kit, I throughly enjoyed the build (and even bought another!). I painted the model based on the kit painting guide for the prototype (but with the planned production six blade prop) - IJN Green (Tamiya) over Orange (Floquil 'Reefer' Orange). I still need to add the radio mast and wire as well as add some very minimal weathering (exhaust stains & some highlighting of panel lines). I'll keep the weathering very minimal beacuase the plane never actually flew, though I imagine they ground tested the engine and maybe did some taxiing tests(?) beforehand. I believe, that according to Fancillion's 'Japanese Aircraft of the Pacific War' that the prototype was scheduled to fly August 16th, 1945! I did not add brake lines or do any scratch building as I was wanting to keep it out-of-the-box, that is until I broke the plastic gun barrels trying to drill them out and had to replace them with steel tubing. I might still go back and add the brake lines now - if I'm feeling adventerous! Sorry about the quality of the photo's - I'm still learning ! I did recently pick up the A+V Models resin kit of the Tachikawa Ki-94-I to join this one. It is a very different airframe (concept). Thanks all, Kevin
  9. Dick, would you happen to know if the one on display in Texas is the same one that was at Willow Grove NAS in the '60's? Or if not, where the Willow Grove example might be now? I grew up not far from Willow Grove - if only I knew then what I know now I'd have taken a lot of pictures!!
  10. The Kawanishi N1K1, Allied code name 'Rex' was initially designed as a high speed offensive floatplane fighter. Its intended mission was to cover Japanese ground troops as they advanced from island to island. Using floatplanes allowed the Japanese to cover these forces without using aircraft carriers of constructing air fields. Floatplanes could be supported by seaplane tenders and use any lagoon or smooth body of water for operation. The N1K1 was originally designed with two 2-bladed contra-rotating props. Problems of excessive vibration in the gearbox led the Kawanishi engineers to redesgn the production version of the Rex with a single 3-bladed prop. With the war turning 'unfavorably' for the Japanese the need for an offensive floatplane fighter was no longer an issue, and the need for Home Defense fighters became predominant. As such the floats were removed from the N1K1 producing the N1K2 land based fighter and ultimately the N1K1-Ja fighter coded named 'George' by the Allies. This kit is built straight from the box, panted with Tamiya acrylics, and decaled with the kit decals. Like any typical Hasegawa kit there were no significant fit issues. I did wind up with a bit of a step between the main float support and the fuselage- but that was probabaly the fault of the builder. The decal placement guide says this paint scheme is for a service test aircraft. Not the factory prototype but an airframe presented to the navy, maintained by Kawanishi factory mechanics, and flown by a navy test pilot before being accepted into service. Hence the lack of weathering (although I will give it a light coat of fflat), and the lack of tail codes. Did anyone catch the fact that I forgot to cut all of the tape when painting the canopy framing?? Hence the incomplete frames. Ah well , just one more little thing to fix. Comments, questions, critiques, suggestions are always welcome. Happy modeling to all, Kevin
  11. Hi Ken, First of all I do not think anyone knows for sure what happened to Lydia. There are some rumors that she 'disappeared', 'was taken captive - and remained in Germany after the war', 'defected with a German lover', etc. None of which appear credible in the least. I did copy the following from Wikipedia ; "In an attempt to prove that Litvyak had not been taken captive, Pasportnikova embarked on a 36 year search for the Yakovlev Yak-1 crash site assisted by the public and the media. For three years she was joined by relatives who together combed the most likely areas with a metal detector. In 1979, after uncovering more than 90 other crash sites, 30 aircraftand many lost pilots killed in action, "the searchers discovered that an unidentified woman pilot had been buried in the village of Dmitrievka... in Shakhterski district." It was then assumed that it was Litvyak and that she had been killed in action after sustaining a mortal head wound. Pasportnikova said that a specialist commission was formed to inspect the exhumed body and it concluded the remains were those of Litvyak." This finding, I beleive, is the reason she was finally awarded Hero of the Soviet Union because if she'd been captured she would not be eligible for that award. Second of all I'm not at all sure about the position of the ailerons. This was also pointed out by a member of my local IPMS chapter (Ernest A. Love in Prescott AZ). The kit ailerons both had 'tabs' that mount in holes in the back of the wing and produce the sag. I know Accurate Miniatures is/was pretty well known for their research so I figured during the build that they knew what they were doing.
  12. Hello again, I also typed 'Stainless Steel 304 hypodermic tubing' into a google search and come up with LOTs of micro tubing (regular wall & thin wall) available from Amazon.com and other online retailers as well.
  13. Hi Robert,My main (read only) reference is the Aero Detail #26 'Kawanishi N1K2-J George'. Thephotos I refer to are on pages 41, 42, 43 of examples at the former ChamplinFighter Museum and the US Air force Museum at Wright-Patterson. I did notice onre-reading the picture captions that these examples are both N1K2's and thatthe landing gear was not only modified (shortened) from the N1K1 but was also strengthenedand improved to retract in 8 seconds compared to 16 seconds for the A6M Zeroseries. That desire for an increase in retractionspeed might well be the reason for the additional spring. So Ithink you are correct in that the N1K1 model did not have the springs whereasthe N1K2 model did. My model may beinaccurate in that respect – oh well, at least I learned how to make reallysmall springs. One reasonfor the practice is that I have a Bandai 1/24 N1K2-J George in my stash and thesize of that model just cries out for some 'super detailing'. Thanks for pointing out the discrepancy. Guess now I am going to have to build that Hasegawa N1K2-J George.
  14. Hello Everyone, As a History Ph.D. candidate I am always looking for 'hidden history'. Soviet women in combat during the Great Patriotic War (W.W.II) being one such area. Lydia Vladimirovna Litvyak (Lylia Litvyak), was called the "White Lily of Stalingrad" in Soviet press releases and the "White Rose of Stalingrad" in Europe and North America after reports of her exploits were first published in English. She flew 66 combat missions and is credited with 12 solo victories and as many as 4 shared victories. Lydia failed to return from a mission on August 1, 1943 and was presumed KIA, she was 21 years old. Litvyak was awarded tthe Order of the Red Banner, Order of the Red Star, and was twice decorated with the Order of the Patriotic War. On May 6, 1990, USSR President Mikhail Gorbachev posthumously awarded Litvyak Hero of the Soviet Union. Lydia Litvyak and Katya Budanova (11 victories) are the worlds only two female aces. My model is the Accurate Minatures Yak-1b. It is built straight from the box. It is painted using a mix of Testor's Model Master enamels, Tamiya acrylics, and Polly Scale acrylics . Decals are kit decals. I have not yet confirmed whether her airplane was equipped with a radio or not. I am also not sure if her Yak 1b was equipped with the underwing rockets. Anyway the kit was a pleasure to build as there were no serious fit issues (FOLLOW THE KIT DIRECTIONS !!). As always comments, questions, suggestions are always welcome
  15. Mike, you might also try a company called Albion Alloy's from the U.K. Sprue Brothers carries most if not all of their line, but last time I looked they were sold out of many sizes. I've also seen Albion Alloy's micro tubing on ebay at 'reasonable' prices. Anyway they manufacture tubing ranging from .3mm (OD) X .1mm (ID) up to 1.0MM (OD) X .8mm (ID) in both brass and nickel silver in 12" lengths. Check out : http://www.albionalloys.co.uk/metal-for-model-makers Hope this helps, Kevin
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