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RGronovius

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Posts posted by RGronovius

  1. The problem with super glue when you are just beginning to build models is that you have next to zero margin for error when aligning parts. Even after model building for around 45 years, If I need to position a large resin part, I'll use a small drop of Elmer's white glue to position it and then add thin super glue after the part is in the proper position.

  2. Testors makes a liquid cement that is fairly inexpensive and widely available in the US at local hobby shops, Hobby Lobby and Michael's. Tenex is more of a graduate level glue and not something I would recommend for beginners. The tube glue is an old school. You chosen two types of glues on opposite sides of the spectrum. One that will set too quickly and one that will set too slowly.

     

    This is the type you should start with, or as also noted, the Tamiya version that is even better, but often harder to find.

     

    https://www.amazon.com/Testors-Plastic-Cement-Liquid-Oz/dp/B004Z0PFTC/ref=pd_sim_21_24?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D6MG9PCCCGMWP3JKXVVY

     

    I also recommend making a little wooden stand for whatever liquid glue you decide on using. I took a little block of wood and a hole saw to create this one. I drilled a small hole in the corner to put a fine tipped brush in there for handy use. It was quick and easy to make and has kept me from spilling my glue.

     

    DSCF0423.JPGDSCF0421.JPG

  3. Harbor Freight sells some very cheap airbrushes that are decent enough for a beginner to learn to airbrush with. Learn to paint on what we often refer to as a "paint bomb" or "test kit". This is an old kit that you use to practice airbrushing on or buy some toy from a second hand shop. Don't try to learn on your recently constructed masterpiece or else it might take the wind out of your sails and deter you from continuing to build models.

  4. Went with the wife to a thrift shop mall on Saturday. Found an old Revell-Monogram A-10 in 1/48 scale in a vendor's booth for $5.99. It was opened, so I peeked inside, but decided not to buy it. A few moments later, the vendor asked why and I told him I wasn't sure it was complete. I could see some empty spots on a sprue and could tell a few parts were rattling around loose in the box.

     

    He knocked the price down to $3.99 and I bought it. It was only missing the pilot and the pilot's arm.

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  5. Getting ready to downsize into a retirement community and have a number of old vac form kits (Rare Plane, Nova, ect.) and am wondering if there is any market for them since they for the most part have been superseded by an injection kit.

    I recently sold some rare planes vacuformed kits on eBay. Only got like $5 a pop for them.

  6. Richard, you are incorrect. Every M1 version included an M16 version (started as an M16A1, then M16A2, now an M4) as part of the tank components of end items. Just like the older M48/M60 series tanks included the M3 "grease gun" submachine gun. There is even an M16 rack at the commander's station. It was considered a crew served weapon and used for local security and when putting out LP/OPs (listening posts/outposts) forward of a defensive position.

     

    Here is a photo of the rifle rack. It stores barrel down into that small metal post hole and the "V" shaped bracket was designed to fit the handguards of the older M16 or M16A1. A welder had to modify that part so it could hold the circular handguards of the M16A2. That short bungee cord held the rifle in place. At least one of the crewmen went to the range to qualify on it once a year. Normally when the company ran the rifle range for the mechanics, supply sergeant, NBC NCO, armorer and the HMMWV drivers (who were armed with M203 grenade launchers).

     

    aag.jpg

     

    One nitpick I see is the handle on the inside of the TC's hatch. On your kit it looks like a metal bar bent into shape, but it is actually just a nylon canvas web strap bolted into place.

     

    m1a1_28_of_71.jpg

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