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MAShelley

IPMS/USA Member
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Posts posted by MAShelley

  1. At the risk of making this a zombie topic (i.e. raising it from the dead)...

    I just put Tamiya masking tape on the canopy, burnish around the frame with a toothpick, and cut off the excess with a (preferably new) blade. Usually multiple small pieces are needed because of the curvature.

    A more detailed discussion (with other methods) is at https://modelpaintsol.com/?s=canopy+masking&post_type=guide

    Or if you have a vinyl cutter you might try searching at https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/

    I have no affiliation with either of these sites.

  2. I've used invisible thread (about 0.004") and strands of wire pulled from broken audio or computer cables. I have some Uschi elastic rigging thread but I haven't had success with it yet. (User error, I'm sure.) To my eyes, guitar strings look too large for 1/72 scale.

  3. 6 hours ago, Piedmont said:

    Speaking of T-38s, some markings for one of NASA's Houston based T-38s in 1/72 would be greatly appreciated! Other than an unusual set of markings for a NASA T-38 on a very old Microscale sheet, I don't think these have been done in 1/72. This decal would get the interest of both aircraft and space related modelers and it is Texas focused!

    Have fun modeling!

    Mike

     

    I like the T-38, but I haven't seen a lot of 1/72 kits out there. There are a few in 1/48, which I believe already have NASA markings available. I'd like to see an ER-2 but not holding my breath.

    When it comes to cars, tanks, etc, I got nothing.

  4. For #1, we use an Excel spreadsheet. There are some formulas in the background that create a long text string of everyone's email address that can be cut-and-pasted into an email. I find this easier than managing a mailing list for a particular piece of software that the next secretary may not use.

     

    I can't speak for #2 since that is handled by someone else.

     

    However, we also have a #3, which is 'members plus other people in the region that we want to advertise our show to.' This is handled using Constant Contact. I can't provide an opinion on it since I don't manage that list.

     

    We also have a Yahoo Groups list, which is free and pretty easy to manage, but everyone seems to have forgotten about it and no one knows who the administrator is. Keep good records!

     

    mas

  5. IPMS-Houston Presents ModelMania 2015

     

    Just southwest of Houston at the Stafford Centre, 10505 Cash Road, Stafford, TX

    This year's theme is "Technicolor"

     

    General Admission $5 for adults, $2 for children, waived if you are entering the contest.

    Doors (and vendors) open at 9am

    Judging begins at 1pm

    Awards ceremony at 4pm

     

    For more info see the website at http://www.ipms-houston.org/

     

    Or contact show director Tom Moon

    tmoongm@gmail.com

     

    Here's the flyer:

    ModelManiaPamphlet2015ver08.pdf

  6. I've successfully shot Vallejo Surface Primer (the grey stuff) at 15-20 psi unthinned with a gravity feed airbrush. I tried thinning it a bit with windshield washer fluid (which is just water and alcohol; a good cheap thinner for acrylics) but it didn't improve it. While spraying it looks like it pools up in corners, but does indeed dry tight and smooth. My notes say it tends to dry on the needle, and if you mix it with lacquer thinner it makes goop, so don't try that.

     

    Overall I like it. Tamiya in a spray can is easier to use, though.

    • Like 1
  7. What is the advantage of a "dedicated airbrush compressor" over my Home Depot one?

     

    A compressor designed specifically for airbrushing will be quieter and smaller than a general-purpose compressor. That's the only real advantage I can think of. Mine (a Grex) doesn't have a tank, so it cycles on and off frequently as I spray, but I'd rather put up with that instead of the deafening racket of the Sears 10-gallon that sits in a corner.

  8. Two regulators should work fine, but I can't think of any benefit from using more than one. The brush will get whatever the lower pressure setting is. (As long as you have them in series with one another, not in parallel.)

     

    I started with a Sears version of a Badger 200 single-action in the late 1970s (I think) with a 1.5 hp compressor and 10-gal tank. Just upgraded to a Grex TG3 (or TG2; I forget) and dedicated airbrush compressor last year. No tank on the new one, but it seems to work just fine. I still have to do a lot of sanding and repainting, but that's operator error and not the fault of the equipment.

  9. I know Wikipedia isn't always the most accurate source, but it mentions that the original configuration had three domes and a balloon stack, which would change the look quite a bit. Oh, and it orignally had wide gauge wheels. Most likely no one but you would know the difference. (Details like that keep me from making much progress on converting locomotives to match my chosen subject.)

  10. Generally I don't buy a tool until I get into a situation where I need something that I don't already have. You can accomplish a lot with just a few of the basic tools. However, the two I always use are:

    1. good lighting (I have a small Ott-Lite)

    2. Opti-Visor or other magnifier.

     

    Other than those, I have nothing to add.

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