Jump to content

paint finish dilemma


Recommended Posts

I'm currently building Monograms 1:12 scale '69 Camaro and I am having one heck of a problem with the paint on the hood and top of the fenders. Almost looks like an overspray but I thought I was being overly careful with this one. Sanded between coats to the point it felt smooth, washed the parts and let them dry thoroughly, and applied the paint evenly. Problem seems to have popped up with the clear coat. I use Dupli-Color for my paint and this works great. Easy to apply and nice sheen. I have sanded the hood 3 times now and applied the clear and still have the problem. Like I said, just on the hood and fender tops. Rest of the car is perfect. When I first apply the clear it is perfectly smooth but after about an hour the 'overspray' problem pops up. Even tried some Macquires (sp?) paste wax which helped a little. Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, Jim,

 

Personally, my problem if building this kit would be with using a cleat coat at all. I don't believe the 1969 factory paint jobs used a top clear coat, so such a finish would not look factory applied. The colored paint was highly polished and waxed back then, so you could use the same philosophy here. A 1969 Camaro did not look dripping wet while dry and parked at the curb.

 

I hate to say it, but a fully-cured color paint surface carefully (and tediously) polished until mirror smooth and then protected by wax would give a more true painted surface. You are using Dupli-color automotive paint to, I assume, show a factory color, so let it dry and cure and then polish out the imperfections until the paint "shines." You can use automotive polishing compound carefully on Dupli-color paint until the imperfections go away. Then finish with Novus #2 and car wax. After all, you are using car paint.

 

Good luck.

 

Ed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ed,

Thanks for responding. My problem might be that I didn't let it cure long enough before continuing. What I will probably end up doing is remove the wax and go from there with the polishing compound. I didn't use factory colors on this car because, frankly, i didn't care for them. I used a deep blue semi pearl which changes under the light. Looks cool but definately not factory. Thanks again for the tips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jim,

 

I was thinking that since the problem showed up on flat (horizontal) surfaces, maybe the clear puddled there long enough for the solvent to attack the base color - especially if the base wasn't completely cured. After the paint is good and hard (wait a week or two) you may be able to polish out the clear, either with micromesh or Novus.

 

BTW, I just found the directions for Duplicolor enamel on their website; they have a pretty severe recoat window: they recommend you put the next coat on within 1 hour or wait a week for it to fully cure before applying the next coat.

 

Don

Edited by Schmitz
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don,

Thanks for the info. I have visited their site but I guess I missed that article. I am going to wait at least a week before I try anything else. Just waxed the rest of the car and it looks fantastic. I'll post pics when I finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...