PaulBradley Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Here's a selection of detail shots of the Corsair for the forthcoming Group Build: More in another thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnRatzenberger Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Paul, See also F4U-1 in Walkaround section ... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Lindsey Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 "Almost" feel sorry for some poor Zeke seeing that on his tail. . . Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewahl Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 If this group of pictures is for group build purposes, then note the fuzzy separation of colors on the fuselage. The painter was very good with his spray gun and did not use masking tape to make the break lines crisp ("crisp" is the most overused word in modeling; what is the opposite of "crisp?). So when you build your kits, your airbrush (a 1/32 scale spray gun) is all you need for painting. OK, you do get to mask the canopy plexiglas. Great pictures! Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomordie Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I have a couple of technical questions,having never built an early model prop. What are the fs no's of the blue's and how do you duplicate the waves in the aluminum surface's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulBradley Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Paul, See also F4U-1 in Walkaround section ... John A link for which is: http://www.ipmsusa2.org/Walkarounds/05-01-...4U-1D/intro.htm Cheers, John - very helpful!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulBradley Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 Delish! Cheers, James! Hopefully, they'll be useful to someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulBradley Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 If this group of pictures is for group build purposes, then note the fuzzy separation of colors on the fuselage. The painter was very good with his spray gun and did not use masking tape to make the break lines crisp ("crisp" is the most overused word in modeling; what is the opposite of "crisp?). So when you build your kits, your airbrush (a 1/32 scale spray gun) is all you need for painting. OK, you do get to mask the canopy plexiglas. Great pictures! Ed Don't forget that this is a restored warbird, so it's not necessarily "true to life" as it were. BTW, as Nick P. will tell you, the opposite of "crisp" is "uncrisp." :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghodges Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 "I have a couple of technical questions,having never built an early model prop. What are the fs no's of the blue's and how do you duplicate the waves in the aluminum surface's." There are no FS#'s for WWII colors. Instead, they were ANA colors, but you don't really need to worry about that! There are plenty of available WWII colors from almost every major model paint maker, so simply start looking in the area you usually buy your more modern colors. USN WWII (mid-war years) used the "tri-color scheme". It was (basically) Dark Sea Blue over Intermediate Blue over Flat White. According to Thomas Doll's "US Navy Aircraft, Camouflage and Markings 1940-1945" the FS equivilants (today) are: FS25042 (semi-gloss Sea Blue); FS35164 (non-specular Intermidiate Blue); and FS37875 (NS Insignia White). Surfaces that could be seen from above were painted the dark blue, surfaces normally seen from the bottom were painted white, and surfaces viewed from the side were painted the intermediate blue to sort of "blend" the other two together. Note that a lot (but not all) Corsairs had the UNDERSIDES of the OUTER WING PANELS painted in intermediate blue. This was so there would be no stark white color showing when the wings were in the folded position. As to the "waving" in the aluminum skin, it's called "oil canning". It's the result of slight indentations in the metal panels where the panel is riveted to the underlying support structure. You CAN argue that this is NOT necessary to do in scales such as 1/48 and 1/72, as it is next to unnoticable in those smaller scales. You might think it COULD be seen in 1/32 and 1/24, but still isn't really needed. If you do decide you want to replicate it you have a VERY tough job in front of you! Essentially, you'll need to get a curved Exacto blade and CARVE a troph between every line of rivets! Then you'll have to sand out all of the associated scratches, rescribe the lost panel lines, add the rivets back, and then sand it all again to tone down and blend the overall effect. When done properly (i.e.-to scale) it can result in a stunning model! In my mind it's a lot of work that most people do not miss if it's not there. Hope this helps! And by the way, I think "crisp" is a very good description of some models. Crisp things have a "snap" to them! Some models are definitely snappy! So, a model that is not crisp basically lacks snap! GIL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomordie Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 "I have a couple of technical questions,having never built an early model prop. What are the fs no's of the blue's and how do you duplicate the waves in the aluminum surface's." There are no FS#'s for WWII colors. Instead, they were ANA colors, but you don't really need to worry about that! There are plenty of available WWII colors from almost every major model paint maker, so simply start looking in the area you usually buy your more modern colors. USN WWII (mid-war years) used the "tri-color scheme". It was (basically) Dark Sea Blue over Intermediate Blue over Flat White. According to Thomas Doll's "US Navy Aircraft, Camouflage and Markings 1940-1945" the FS equivilants (today) are: FS25042 (semi-gloss Sea Blue); FS35164 (non-specular Intermidiate Blue); and FS37875 (NS Insignia White). Surfaces that could be seen from above were painted the dark blue, surfaces normally seen from the bottom were painted white, and surfaces viewed from the side were painted the intermediate blue to sort of "blend" the other two together. Note that a lot (but not all) Corsairs had the UNDERSIDES of the OUTER WING PANELS painted in intermediate blue. This was so there would be no stark white color showing when the wings were in the folded position. As to the "waving" in the aluminum skin, it's called "oil canning". It's the result of slight indentations in the metal panels where the panel is riveted to the underlying support structure. You CAN argue that this is NOT necessary to do in scales such as 1/48 and 1/72, as it is next to unnoticable in those smaller scales. You might think it COULD be seen in 1/32 and 1/24, but still isn't really needed. If you do decide you want to replicate it you have a VERY tough job in front of you! Essentially, you'll need to get a curved Exacto blade and CARVE a troph between every line of rivets! Then you'll have to sand out all of the associated scratches, rescribe the lost panel lines, add the rivets back, and then sand it all again to tone down and blend the overall effect. When done properly (i.e.-to scale) it can result in a stunning model! In my mind it's a lot of work that most people do not miss if it's not there. Hope this helps! And by the way, I think "crisp" is a very good description of some models. Crisp things have a "snap" to them! Some models are definitely snappy! So, a model that is not crisp basically lacks snap! GIL Thanks good info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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