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phantomordie

Plastic Glues.

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I just tried Tenax and a piece fell off when I picked up the model. What are the best glues and how should they be used? :smiley22:

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Most of the time I use Testors liquid cement. It melts well and bonds great too. The down side is that it takes a while to set up. For fast drying I always use Zap-A-Gap. I almost exclusively use the green bottle stuff. I have never used a kicker but there have been a few times I should have.

 

Mark :smiley15:

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I know a lot of guys that swear by Tenax. I have tried it but it evaporates out of the bottle faster than I can use it. To me it is rather a pain too. For strictly plastic, I have used testors with the needle tip for years. In fact one tube has lasted for over 25 models. Don't overlook the need for a instant CA glue in your arsenal though.

 

t350_d27c035abb296d43032c26320deaec83.jpg

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If the piece fell off after using Tenax, you must have not used it correctly.

 

Tenax and Weld-On#3 (or #4) are WELD type cements. You DO NOT apply them to one part, apply more to the other part, and then join them together. It will evaporate before you can join the parts, and then a part will fall off later.

 

Instead, you hold the parts to be bonded together (barely together, not tightly) and apply the cement to the seam or joint with a fine brush or fine tip applicator. If it's a seam, capillary action will take the cement about 1/4" down the seam. After about 2-3secs, squeeze the seam and it will weld together. If done properly, a small amount of "molten" plastic may pop up from the seam, helping to fill it. You repeat this action all the way around the parts. The point about it evaporating rapidly is a good one. You don't want to leave the bottle open if you're not using it!

 

The Testors and Tamiya thin cements are good stuff, and friends of mine swear by them. Me, I prefer industrial grade Weld-On #4. I buy it by the pint can (10 at a time) which saves a TON of money compared to buying bottles of cement at the hobbyshop. Hope this helps!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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Can't add much to what Gil said...

 

I do use Tamiya Thin, Testors, and Tenax...based on what I'm gluing. Tamiya is thin and will run down the seam nicely and quickly...Tenax seems a little thick, but is faster setting...Testors is somewhat thicker than Tamiya but slower setting. If setting speed is a factor, Tenax...if it's a tight spot, Tamiya...if I have time, and can wait for a good solid bond, Testors.

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Can't add much to what Gil said...

 

I do use Tamiya Thin, Testors, and Tenax...based on what I'm gluing. Tamiya is thin and will run down the seam nicely and quickly...Tenax seems a little thick, but is faster setting...Testors is somewhat thicker than Tamiya but slower setting. If setting speed is a factor, Tenax...if it's a tight spot, Tamiya...if I have time, and can wait for a good solid bond, Testors.

I use the same, and for the same reasons. Your description of what you use, and when, is about as concise a way to put it as I have seen. Good job!

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Ditto with the above. One added item is that I use the "Touch-n-flow applicator when applying Tenax to a fuselage or other joint. It makes sure that both surfaces have Tenax applied and will weld together.

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Thanks, David...just tried to say what I was thinking... :blush::blush::blush:

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I've had good luck with Mr. Hobby 'Mr. Cement Deluxe'. The only problem is that you need to get a smaller dedicated brush with which to apply it as the built in cap brush is entirely to large to use in small plases.

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I really appreciate the info on IPMS forums. No BS answers are a lot of help to me and others I'm sure. This is where I can come to get a straight answer.

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That is what "By Modelers For Modelers" means!!!

 

:smiley20:

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Well, I'm late to the party as usual, but I have used Weld-On 3 for years. I bought a case of 1 pint metal cans years ago for my club & still have a few left. For the price it can't be beat. I use it for 90% of the assembly work I do. The other 10% is mostly some sort of superglue (Zap a gap) when I tackle something with non-plastic parts.

I have some others here, but keep going back to these two!

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Well, I'm late to the party as usual, but I have used Weld-On 3 for years. I bought a case of 1 pint metal cans years ago for my club & still have a few left. For the price it can't be beat. I use it for 90% of the assembly work I do. The other 10% is mostly some sort of superglue (Zap a gap) when I tackle something with non-plastic parts.

I have some others here, but keep going back to these two!

 

Hop Bottom Pa.?

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Hop Bottom Pa.?

 

 

:smiley20:

Yep - cultural center of the Galaxy!

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The only thing here that I didn't see and would like to add is that Testor's Cement for Clear Parts is a great alternative to CA for PE parts. It has great initial hold but dries clear and with a little bit of care doesn't stain the PE parts (especially those color PE parts) like CA can. Also fantastic for canopies of course. You can use it as filler along the canopy seams and between canopy sections as well. I used to use white glue but the Testor's product doesn't shrink as much.

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