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TimDarrah

Airbrushing Future?

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It looks like my Testors Gloss Coat wasn't enough to prevent the oils & turpintine from eating thru to the plastic. So now I'd like to try to airbrush Future onto another painted bit.

 

My two questions are:

 

a) what do I thin Future with?

 

B) what do I use to clean my Iwata with afterwards?

 

Thanks,

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Never had much luck airbrushing Future. It brushes beautifully being self leveling.

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It looks like my Testors Gloss Coat wasn't enough to prevent the oils & turpintine from eating thru to the plastic. So now I'd like to try to airbrush Future onto another painted bit.

 

My two questions are:

 

a) what do I thin Future with?

 

B) what do I use to clean my Iwata with afterwards?

 

Thanks,

 

I use an Iwata HP-C and have found that my best results are when I actually do it two different ways - my first coat of Future is always run through at a 100% Future mix so as to be sure the decals have a glossy surface to which they can adhere. Once the decals have been set, I run back over them with a mix of Future and 91% Isopropl at about a 1 part Isopropl to 4 parts Future. I have relagated myself to mostly armor and thus the small amount of Isopropl gives the Future a slightly dulled appearence without frosting (which can be a problem here in Georgia humidity). I was reluctant to use my Iwata for this at first, but I've found that as long as you clean the airbrush immediately after running the Future, you shouldn't have any buildup or other problems. As far as what I use to clean it, I simply run straight Isopropl through it. I have heard of some people running Windex or Ammonia through it, but I honestly dont trust either one of those methods with my Iwata. Of course, different people will have different takes on this, but I have found this to be the method that yields the best results for me.

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I shoot the Future straight with no problem. However, IMMEDATELY after you finish spraying with Future, spray either Windex or straight ammonia thru the brush. If you allow the Future to dry in the brush, you will have to break it down and clean it thoroughly.

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I agree with David. I shoot Future straight and clean up with ammonia. I have had some problem with Future "pebbling" on the surface. Now, I spray Future to get an even coat and then use a very soft brush to smooth out the coat. A single pass of the brush is all you need. A second pass will mess it up.

 

FWIW, I use a separate air brush for the Future. It is an el cheapo and I don't take the chance of screwing up my Iwata or Sotar.

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I've never had any problem with any residual Future after cleaning up with Windex. The problem with spraying Future is that it is self leveling and you can easily defeat that when spraying if your distance and flow are not just right. From what I've read more and more modelers are just brushing it on and letting it do it's thing. IMHO never cut Future with anything unless you are going for a special effect. It is however easily changed to a flat acrylic. I use a few drops of Tamiya flat. As I recall Chris Mobley once wrote that he uses a 70/30 Future/flat mix. You'll never see me challenging his results!

 

Mike

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Wow, one little question and a ton of great answers, ideas and suggestions. That's what I love about IPMS/USA. Thanks for everything.

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I shoot Future 100% through my Iwata and then run straight water through it. No problems afterward. I have gone straight to painting with it after doing this. For my flat coat, I use a mix of 60-40 Future to Tamiya Flat Base. It makes it even duller.

 

I've been doing this for more than six years and no real problems.

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When I airbrush it, I cut it 50-50 with Isopropyl Alcohol. It lays down smooth and dries quickly. If the subject itself doesn't have a lot of details molded in, I use a Q-Tip to lay Future down full strength. Either way works well, the full strength self-levels nicely and the airbrush mixture dries with a slight eggshell sheen (still glossy enough for decals, but not a showroom-new shine).

 

Ralph

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One word of advice.....although Future doesn't yellow it does get old! I advise getting a new bottle once a year, even if you have a half a bottle left. I've noticed that "old" Future doesn't tend to shine as well, even when dipping a canopy in it 3 times (for example). Besides, the stuff is so cheap, it's not like your costing yourself a bunch of money just to be on the safe side. Cheers!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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I think Gil touched on something that's important to a lot of modeling items. I used to brag about having putties, paints, and whatnot for years and years and years. One day I realized that most of these things just work better fresh so now I pass things on to modelers that can't afford new or build at a level where good is good enough.

 

Mike

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One word of advice.....although Future doesn't yellow it does get old! I advise getting a new bottle once a year, even if you have a half a bottle left. I've noticed that "old" Future doesn't tend to shine as well, even when dipping a canopy in it 3 times (for example). Besides, the stuff is so cheap, it's not like your costing yourself a bunch of money just to be on the safe side. Cheers!

 

GIL :smiley16:

 

Actually, if it is applied and dried, it won't yellow. But I find that if it looks yellow in the bottle (even slightly yellow), it is time to use that bottle on a floor and get a fresh bottle for the models as it *will* continue to turn yellow on the model.

 

Ralph

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