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TheWalrus

Parafilm

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Anyone have experience with parafilm? Sounds like a useful masking material. Does it cut well after applied, such as used for canopy masking? Is it easily removed with no residue? etc?

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I never could get it to work properly! I use Bluetac or whatever it is called now. I have only had one instance where it peeled paint off. It was acrylic paint. I have never experienced bleed under with it either. There are people that swear by parafilm. Maybe I got a bad batch or it could have been operator head space and timing(more likely)!

Edited by Mark Aldrich

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In my experience, surface prep is everything and that includes a good washing to remove any finger oils, manufacturing release agents and such. Followed by a good basecoat primer.

 

I am just starting to use acrylics to any extent. No problems so far. I moved to acrylics from lacquers and enamels due to the volatiles in them and the fact that since moving to our new house have more vapor exposure to rest of living spaces.

 

Not tried Blu-tac yet. Looks like it won't give a sharp demarcation line but rather at best a slight feathering. Is that your experience. I know you build that armor crap, :lol: and build standards are lower than when a true model (airplane) is under the airbrush so your repsonse may be weighted.

 

I never could get it to work properly! I use Bluetac or whatever it is called now. I have only had one instance where it peeled paint off. It was acrylic paint. I have never experienced bleed under with it either. There are people that swear by parafilm. Maybe I got a bad batch or it could have been operator head space and timing(more likely)!

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Actually no. It usually does a great job! Here is th elink to the paint peel issue I had. You can see the line. May not be super crisp.

 

http://forum.ipmsusa3.org/index.php?/topic/6264-acrylic-paint-peel/

 

Here th elink to the build of the model. I used the blue tape....it is nothing more than the blue colored masking tape, to mask off th estripes on the tail and canopy.

 

http://www.ipmsusa3.org/gallery/v/builds/Mid+East+War+SIG/F4U-1D/

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Confirmed in your link: Prep is foremost to good painting and paint binding. True in house painting and model building. Also I suspect you are aware, but there are different blue tapes. One of them is low tack and has less of a tendency to pull paint up.

 

I once saw an article about a green colored (Gator tape?) which was purported to give a razor edge finish. It woreked great for the painter who did our interior. I tried it on a model and itlifted the paint at the ewdges. It had a higher tack than was tolerated on the acrylic model paint.

 

Any paint needs something to grip. If the plastic is shiny smooth it won't adhere well. Prep the surface. Use a primer.

 

Actually no. It usually does a great job! Here is th elink to the paint peel issue I had. You can see the line. May not be super crisp.

 

http://forum.ipmsusa...lic-paint-peel/

 

Here th elink to the build of the model. I used the blue tape....it is nothing more than the blue colored masking tape, to mask off th estripes on the tail and canopy.

 

http://www.ipmsusa3....War+SIG/F4U-1D/

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Dave

Yes, have used it for years and never had problems with it. Easy to form on even the thinnest of clear plastic. In fact I used it on my PT Boat conversion for windows that were made from transparency film. But then I hate acrylic paint, and never trust it to stay down when pulling tape or Parafilm.

Back when I built aircraft I always used it on canopies, the trick is to cut it using a new blade so you get the sharp edge you’re looking for.

Residue question, yes if you leave it on for a long time. Fix: take an old testors paint brush and clip the stick end using your knife slice it on the end to a 45. Gives a sharp flat edge. Now just push from the center of the glass to the outside edge by the painted frame and it will peel off without much trouble. You can even use a little Dawn detergent to help it along if you like.

 

Remember to pull it from the outside edges top and side. I pull outward first then move to the top and bottom, when I see it has gone as far as possible without breaking I lay it down on the part. Then use a clean Q-Tip to press it on the plastic for a tight fit.

Hope that helps.

Edited by sumterIII

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Dip your canopy in Future. Let it dry in a dust free location. I usually wait several days. Carefully stretch the parafilm over the canopy and trim with a new blade. I haven't had any problem with residue.

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Dip your canopy in Future. Let it dry in a dust free location. I usually wait several days. Carefully stretch the parafilm over the canopy and trim with a new blade. I haven't had any problem with residue.

 

Great tip, :smiley20: will have to try that myself. I did use Glade furniture polish on my last build same as your Future and that seemed to help too.

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