AKPilot Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I recognize that there are various bonding agents used for different purposes. I do the same for model rocketry and r/c. My LHS carries: - Bob Smith (LHS brand) - various Testors/Model Master - Ambroid Proweld - Plastruct: Plastic Weld & Bondenc For plastic, airplane, model building what adhesives/glues do you use for: 1. plastic-to-plastic? 2. resin-to-plastic? 3. resin-to-resin? 4. canopies-to-model? I have various CAs, Aileens, and Titebond on hand already. Are these okay for various purposes? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJ Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 I recognize that there are various bonding agents used for different purposes. I do the same for model rocketry and r/c. My LHS carries: - Bob Smith (LHS brand) - various Testors/Model Master - Ambroid Proweld - Plastruct: Plastic Weld & Bondenc For plastic, airplane, model building what adhesives/glues do you use for: 1. plastic-to-plastic? Solvent style glues, Tenex, Tamiya super-thin, Weldon #3, etc. These are all solvents that melt the plastic and make a very strong weld very quickly. Super glues where you have a very thin piece that melting would be a problem. 2. resin-to-plastic? Super glues(Ca) or epoxy only. Solvent type glues will not work. Epoxy gives you a little more working time and is generally a stronger bond. 3. resin-to-resin? Same as resin-to-plastic. 4. canopies-to-model? Specialized white glues that dry clear. Zap formula 560, Microscale Krystal Klear are the two most common. Glues that are for watch crystal replacement also work well. I also use Zap Polyzap(silver and blue bottle). The last is a super glue that was developed for gluing Lexan bodies on R/C cars. I have had no problem with fogging and it is a very strong and quick bond. I have various CAs, Aileens, and Titebond on hand already. Are these okay for various purposes? Any help would greatly be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Montgomery Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Same as PeteJ with the additon of Gator Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue for canopies, clear plastic, resin to plastic and paper to paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKPilot Posted February 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 Thanks gents for the response. Have any of you ever used any of the three I've mentioned above, or know of what the differences would be? - Ambroid ProWeld - Plastruct Plastic Weld - Plastruct Bendenc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Nardone Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 Answering all points: 1. Plastic-to-plastic: Any of the solvent type cements. I've used Tenax, Plastruct, and Ambroid in the past, and they all worked well. I'm using Tamiya's Extra Thin Cement at the present and it is good, too. They all have some pros and cons--for instance, the Tamiya Extra Thin seems to take a while to "grab" some kit plastic. Plastruct's Plastic Weld is strong stuff, developed for ABS-to-ABS joints. A little dab'll do ya, if you use too much you'll get glue sinks after a few months (where the softened plastic in a seam sinks--it usually happens after the model is finished, and thin sport (wing trailing edges, for sure) are the most affected. When I first started using liquid cements, that's what I used. I have no experience with their Bondene, but the ingredients, I'm sure, are probably the same as the other liquid cements intended for styrene-to-styrene joints. Tenax works very well, the big thing is being able to find it. Ambroid works great for me, but others have commented about the fact that after it dries for a while, you can experience "seam ghosting"--the seam will reappear and need to be filled, again usually after the model is finished and painted. Since it takes me a while to finish anything it isn't an issue for me. I've also used the Weld-On products (#3 and #4), another good choice. 2. Plastic to non-plastics (resin, metal, brass) and resin-to-resin: CA or epoxy. The Bob Smith brand is good stuff, but their CA tends to harden in the bottle quicker than most. I've used the stuff you find at Hobby Lobby for the past few years--I used a 1/4 ounce bottle of their thin CA until it was gone, a major feat for me. Don't discount the small tubes of Krazy Glue or generic Super Glue in the three-for $2 blister packs, either. For filling seams and the like, gel-type CA works quite well. Also, when using CA as a filler, add some baby powder to it--it turns into a paste that takes a bit longer to harden and sands easily. Bob Smith Epoxy is good, but again, don't feel you have to use a "hobby" brand--Duro makes 5-, 15-, and 30-minute epoxies that work just as well. 3. Canopies: Pacer's Formula 560 Canopy Glue--it is like white glue on steroids. Thin it with water, apply it with a brush. Works great. I also use it to attach ordnance and sometimes even landing gear--when you start hauling models around, sooner or later a landing gear will break or a pylon will fall off. If you use CA or solvent, you're almost forced to use CA as a temporary repair, then go back and add pins for the permanent repair, risking the paint job. With Canopy Glue, peel off the glue and re-attach. Sure, it takes a little longer to gram and hold, but since I started using it I haven't had to touch up any paint where a bond got broken. You can use Elmer's, too--I don't know if they still make it, but Elmer's used to come in black, it made the joint between the fuselage and the canopy look more in scale... If you make bases or diorama accessories from wood, Titebond is the stuff. I've not used any of the tacky craft glues, but others swear by them. Experiment--you might find a great use for something. Don't forget to share if you do... ;) Ralph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGronovius Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 I build mainly armor kits and try to stay OOB as much as possible, although many kits are coming with PE frets and aluminum barrels. I use mainly Tamiya extra thin liquid cement because I like how it works. I also have a bottle of the Testors cheap liquid cement for some of the grunt work where it won't be seen or just requires massive amounts of glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted February 6, 2011 Report Share Posted February 6, 2011 These are what I use: 1. plastic-to-plastic? Both Testor's classic Orange Tube cement for plastic models and Tamiya Extra Thin 2. resin-to-plastic? haven't done this so far so I don't know. 3. resin-to-resin? CA glue with kicker. 4. canopies-to-model? Gator Grip Glue or Testor's window cement. Mostly the Gator Grip Glue though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesWalden Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 Plastic to Plastic - Tamiya Thin, Ambriod liquid, Testors in the black container, Testors liquid. Resin to Plastic - Bob Smith CA or Epoxy. Resin to Resin - Same as above. Canopies to model - Don't model no stinking airplanes. But, would probably use white glue if I did. Also use - Borden White Glue, Ailenes Tacky Glue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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