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burner12

Problem with Gloss coat to cover decals

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I don't know why but I have used future and a gloss coat, and I can still see the outline of the decals. So I'm wondering how can that go away, with lots of little coats? Or something else?

Edited by burner12

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There are others better qualified than I, but I can think of several reasons. One is that they are thick decals. It might take several additional coats of gloss applied around the edges especially to blend them in. Another might be how the carrier film is laid down. Some decals have the film on the entire sheet and you have to cut out every decal. Others only place it where the decal is to be on the sheet, but with sharp edges, others do not have the sharp edges. The sharp edges produce "lips" just like a thick decal and might need more coats applied lightly on the edges to blend them in. Finally, the edges might not be all the way down. They can curl up ever so slightly, not really silvering, just to produce an edge as above.

 

However, I've also encountered particular decals that just won't blend in for the above reasons, even when applied by the gloss/solution/decal/solution/gloss method.

 

Now let's see what others have to say.

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You did not indicate what brand of decals nor how you prepared the surface before applying the decals. These considerations are also important. Regards, Nick Filippone

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I'll be watching this one closely too Richard, as I often have the same problem. You'd think after 40 years I'd get some part of this hobby down to a "science"....:smiley22:

 

GIL :smiley16:

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You did not indicate what brand of decals nor how you prepared the surface before applying the decals. These considerations are also important. Regards, Nick Filippone

 

Well i agree with Ron, I'll give it a few more coats and see how it looks.

 

But to answer your questions I don't know the brand, and I coated the areas of where the decals were going with micro set then added micro sol after they were on the, 1/72 scale, aircraft. And still just 1 light coat of gloss really can't answer the question just yet IMO. But after 2-4 then I'd start to try and think why it isn't working. We shall see.

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I'll be watching this one closely too Richard, as I often have the same problem. You'd think after 40 years I'd get some part of this hobby down to a "science"....:smiley22:

 

GIL :smiley16:

 

 

Dude,

you'd think that after 40 years you would know better.....there is no sciene.....just "gettiing lucky"!!!

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Did you gloss coat the surface before the decals were applied? Nick Filippone

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Did you gloss coat the surface before the decals were applied? Nick Filippone

 

i believe so

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Decals have a thickness and lay on the surface of the paint. Clear coat over them applies a layer to both paint and decal. This does nothing to balance the surface difference between the two. That is where polishing comes in. You will want a thick enough clear coat to be able to polish away those edges feathering them in. I have used the detail masters polishing cloths and pads. I use the snot out of them. They are great. I have had mixes results with polishing Future however. It does not dry as hard as a true paint and clogs up the sanding medium even wet sanding but it can be done.

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Decals have a thickness and lay on the surface of the paint. Clear coat over them applies a layer to both paint and decal. This does nothing to balance the surface difference between the two. That is where polishing comes in. You will want a thick enough clear coat to be able to polish away those edges feathering them in. I have used the detail masters polishing cloths and pads. I use the snot out of them. They are great. I have had mixes results with polishing Future however. It does not dry as hard as a true paint and clogs up the sanding medium even wet sanding but it can be done.

 

How exactly do you polish them with out ripping them or peeling them up, and what do you use? I have never heard another modeler tell me about polishing. This is new to me Jay.

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Richard,

My modeling genre is automotive so polishing paint is not only common place it is expected in most cases. I use the detail master polishing set of 6 grits from 3200 to 12000. I have buried decals under the clear coat with as few as 3 coats. As far as going too deep and cutting through the clear and into the paint or decal below, yes, care is required. Perhaps my technique and experience do not translate to aircraft or what ever subject matter you're dealing with. Sorry.

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When you add a decal, you add a thickness to the model. The only way to avoid this is to use a rub-on decal. Many, many years ago, Letraset offered some model markings. They were great!!! The problem was that they had a short shelf life - probably only a year of so. I think that some armor decals are offered in rub-on form but I don't think that anyone now makes them. Sorry.

 

Clare

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Richard: The only thing I can think of is to ask: did you cut the decal out as close to the outline as possible? If so, THAT may be the problem.

 

Most aftermarket decals are designed with either minimal clear around the decal (Invisaclear); or the clear actually thins out and tapers down as it goes out from the edges of the printed colors. If you look at Microscale, Superscale, and other decals they tell you to cut out the ENTIRE decal, including its surrounding clear carrier. This allows the last gloss coats to cover the thinnest outer edges easier. If you cut right up to the color printing, you're actually applying a decal with a thicker edge, and the gloss will have a harder time covering it and blending it in.

 

Of course, the quality of your decals will make a difference! That's why you see frequent complaints about thick kit decals that are next to impossible to make disappear. Hope this helps!

 

GIL :smiley16:

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Richard: The only thing I can think of is to ask: did you cut the decal out as close to the outline as possible? If so, THAT may be the problem.

 

Most aftermarket decals are designed with either minimal clear around the decal (Invisaclear); or the clear actually thins out and tapers down as it goes out from the edges of the printed colors. If you look at Microscale, Superscale, and other decals they tell you to cut out the ENTIRE decal, including its surrounding clear carrier. This allows the last gloss coats to cover the thinnest outer edges easier. If you cut right up to the color printing, you're actually applying a decal with a thicker edge, and the gloss will have a harder time covering it and blending it in.

 

Of course, the quality of your decals will make a difference! That's why you see frequent complaints about thick kit decals that are next to impossible to make disappear. Hope this helps!

 

GIL :smiley16:

 

No I left some clear carrier on. So I didn't cut to the edge. But I like what somebody told me and that is use fine sand paper to sand them. The problem is it may make these pop off which I don't want. So I wodner should I do that or not?

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