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35th Anniversary Camaro


MikeH

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I was asked to build a replica of a guy's 1:1 car at a car show/fundraiser last month. I started on it today. The fun part is going to be all the different shades of black and setting them off against each other. Tonight I had some DVR time and spent the evening sanding and slicing body parts to line up properly and without major gaps. I've got some minor work on the rear spoiler piece to do yet but that should be easy to fix with some styrene strip. I'm seriously considering cutting the roof out to replicate the t-tops but I'm not sure if the guy would want that or not. I may call and ask him. That and I'd need a vacuform machine that I don't have to fold the window edges over for the roof. I'll also be printing my own SS decals for the side and back. The actual car and the started project.

 

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Edited by MikeH
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Mike, Look forward to seeing you go through this one. I have a real affinity for F-body cars. Closet Camaro Fan and proud Firebird fan.

Is this the new kit you'll be working with or the first issue from your stash?

Chris

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Hi, Mike,

 

I just compared the Revell kits of the 35th Anniversary Camaro to the 1998 Pontiac Firebird Ram-Air, both F-body cars. Revell did the Camaro with a smooth hardtop and decals to simulate the T-top glass panels. Revell did the Firebird with actual outlines of glass panels engraved on the top, but still used decals to simulate the glass. It would appear that you could cut off the tops of the two cars at the same places and exchange the tops. This would at least give the impression of separate T-top glass panels on your Camaro. The curves of the glass are very gentle, so it might be possible to form or shape clear plastic to fit the openings if you choose to cut them open.

 

Also, the AMT annuals for the Firebird from 1993 through 1997 featured a clear windshield piece that reached back over the top to include the T-top glass panels. Perhaps one of these windshield pieces will fit the Revell kit because, in theory, the roofline stayed the same from 1993-2002.

 

Just some thoughts . . .

 

Ed

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Hi, Mike,

 

I just compared the Revell kits of the 35th Anniversary Camaro to the 1998 Pontiac Firebird Ram-Air, both F-body cars. Revell did the Camaro with a smooth hardtop and decals to simulate the T-top glass panels. Revell did the Firebird with actual outlines of glass panels engraved on the top, but still used decals to simulate the glass. It would appear that you could cut off the tops of the two cars at the same places and exchange the tops. This would at least give the impression of separate T-top glass panels on your Camaro. The curves of the glass are very gentle, so it might be possible to form or shape clear plastic to fit the openings if you choose to cut them open.

 

Also, the AMT annuals for the Firebird from 1993 through 1997 featured a clear windshield piece that reached back over the top to include the T-top glass panels. Perhaps one of these windshield pieces will fit the Revell kit because, in theory, the roofline stayed the same from 1993-2002.

 

Just some thoughts . . .

 

Ed

 

I hadn't even thought of that. I have an old 98 Ram Air built up and a new one in the box. Thanks.

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I'm awaiting a new tool to complete a body mod on this one. I'm using an old build up for the t-top set up. Revell molded in the t-tops on the 98 Ram Air and they are identical to the t-tops on the Camaro I'm building. Once I get my new saw, the tops will come off! I will also have to locate and cut out the side running lights on the rear bumper since they're not molded in.

 

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Hi, Mike,

 

Thanks for the shot of the two car bodies side by side. From this angle it looks like an easy cut-and-paste, and you get the T-top car you want with the Camaro and a unique Firebird with a hardtop as a secondary bonus. I assume you are planning on a gloss black Camaro to match the real car in the first picture, so are you going to use acrylic paint or enamel paint? My choice would be the Model Master enamel gloss black fully cured and then polished out with Novus #2 followed by Novus #1. Apply any decal markings to the polished paint. Finally, use model car wax on the polished paint over the dried decals, and you won't need the clear coats to have a realistic looking finish.

 

Looking forward to your progress. The thin saw should minimize lost plastic thickness when you make your cuts. Good luck!

 

Ed

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Hi, Mike,

 

Thanks for the shot of the two car bodies side by side. From this angle it looks like an easy cut-and-paste, and you get the T-top car you want with the Camaro and a unique Firebird with a hardtop as a secondary bonus. I assume you are planning on a gloss black Camaro to match the real car in the first picture, so are you going to use acrylic paint or enamel paint? My choice would be the Model Master enamel gloss black fully cured and then polished out with Novus #2 followed by Novus #1. Apply any decal markings to the polished paint. Finally, use model car wax on the polished paint over the dried decals, and you won't need the clear coats to have a realistic looking finish.

 

Looking forward to your progress. The thin saw should minimize lost plastic thickness when you make your cuts. Good luck!

 

Ed

 

Thanks Ed for the suggestion. However, I'll be using Tamiya rattle can black and clear coat. I can't stand enamel paints as I've never been able to get them to gas out for me and never dry properly. I'll also be printing my own decals as the red SS markings to match the guy's actual car aren't on the sheet. The "firechicken" will be put in the box of scrap with other models I didn't care for after I built them. LOLOL

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I couldn't have done this twice if I tried. I got the top lines up, pillars lined up, and the window fits like a glove! :D :D I have to put a spot of putty and fill in a couple spots, plus rescribe a bit of weather stripping, but it's well on its way!

 

I truly needed this build I think, as it's really caused me to evaluate my building skills and what I've learned over the last 7 years since returning to the hobby. cheers

 

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Nice work Mike! Beautifully done. Looks great.

 

It's great to be able to press yourself and see where you end up. I always have a problem trying to cut up "expensive" plastic, but then I remember, it's just a model, I can get another, or better yet, I CAN fix it! Keep on showing us your updates.

Chris

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I had the whole day to work on it today. It's standing on wheels now and the body etc. fits very well in the mock up stage. I also got the rear running light scribed in to be cut out. The interior is next and then the body work.

 

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Chassis looks great. Coming along nicely. Did you give your consingee links to see you in progress posts? If he's following along, I know he would be happy.

 

No. I offered to exchange information etc. and he was seemed adimant about not exchanging information and just said he'd talk to my dad. I figure I'll track him down when it's all done.

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Here's the first coat of black with the un-detailed interior so far. The interior colors are giving me fits as the "ebony" isn't truly black, but more of a faded black/really dark gray. The rear running lights were cut out on the other side of the rear bumper last night and painted. This black paint is "OK" and my smoothest to date. I still need to give it a wet-sand and smooth it out, re-shoot and clear it. It's funny that I'm basically polishing the primer before I spray the black. giggle I also added valve stems to the rims and got the lug nuts painted gray. I've yet to give a black wash to the under chassis and rims to make them "pop"

 

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Hey Mike this is a very sharp build! And you are correct about the factory Ebony interior finish (which BTW is a rarity on 4th Gen F-Bodys). Keep up the terrific work.

 

A few notes about these kits and the LS-powered 4th Gens in general. The chassis for this kit was originally from the '93 Z28 release and does have the leftover LT1 engine and intake parts. This is a minor issue with the later LS1-powered cars. This kit, sadly, will not build a correct factory SS. It's missing the unique and quite different airbox for the SS hood. This sits on top of the intake on the actual car. These kits are also missing the t-top shades (which attached with velcro tabs on the real cars) and the flip-over rear privacy cargo cover that separates the t-top storage area from the area behind the rear seatback. I only bring this up as Mike stated he is building this for someone and these small differences might be important to the recipient.

 

On the 1/1 scale F-Bodys all Trans Ams in late 2000 thru the '02 model year ALL came with t-tops from the factory. So Mike your TA kit is now a '98 to early '00 model! Going back to the Camaro the side mirrors were always black but in the '00 thru '02 models were available to be ordered body-colored with some (but not all) factory colors. Also on the '01-'02 SS models SLP offered a different exhaust tips that came out underneath the license plate area with a small trim piece that went around the perimeter of teh rear bumper. And if you want to make a unique-looking "factory freak" in '99 there were 778 Camaros ordered with a white interior (which consists of white leather seat covers). Also any '00-'02 Camaro Z28 or SS will have the steering wheel stereo controls. The steering wheel out of the '98 TA kit will work fine with a wee bit of sanding/reshaping. Finally, although all 2002 Camaros come with a factory dash badge that states "35th Anniversary Camaro" only Z28 coupes or convertibles ordered with the SS option could then be further optioned with the factory 35th Anniversary option. This cost an additional $2,500 and these cars were only available in Rally Red with silver SS stripes and polished 17" SS rims with black-painted inserts. Also there was special badging on the fenders, dash, embroidered seats and a trophy mat that had this badge embroidered into it.

 

So, that's it in a nutshell...it's juts me being OCD about these cars. Here's my Sunset Orange Metallic '02 Trans Am WS6. I'm also the co-founder and current President of the Northern Kentucky F-Body Association (www.nkyfba.com). Mike, again keep up the terrific work...I envy your abilities and enjoy seeing your work, sir.

 

Later,

 

Lee

 

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And here are some shots taken of my Ebony interior...same day, same lighting.

 

Later,

 

Lee

 

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Hey Lee, thanks for the sunny shots. I've used Polly Scale Tarnished Black for the door panels and center console, and a lighter shade for the seats. I may have to add a touch more black to the mix, but it's getting close.

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Hi, Lee,

 

Thanks for your shots of your WS6 Trans Am. I bought the 2002 Collector Edition TA new after ordering it, and I still have slightly less than 4,000 miles on it. I have a six-speed stick with the T-tops version. I was not thrilled with the yellow color, but it is what it is. It would seem that Revell, with some slight tweaking to the 1998 TA Ram Air kit, could produce the Collector Edition. A new decal sheet and molding the kit in yellow would work nicely for openers.

 

I have to get an emissions test every three years. Six years ago the guy misread the odo and recorded my 3,000+ miles as 30,000+ miles. Three years ago I got that corrected as it was still at 3,000+ miles. Last summer I took it in again, and the guy who read the odo was sure that something was wrong because the odo still had 3,000+ miles on it. I assured him that it was correct because the car is a garage queen and only sees the light of day when the sun is out and the roads are dry. It still has a new smell to the interior. A used car dealer recently offered me $22,000 for it; no trade. I kept all the build papers from the factory.

 

Ed

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A quick update. I've got the second coat of black on after a bit of sanding. I still have to mask off and paint the engine bay area and detail it. I'm still in the process of working up some decals also. The interior was treated with the semi-gloss coat to give the vynil and leather sheen. Next is detail painting and some washes.

 

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A quick update. I've got the second coat of black on after a bit of sanding. I still have to mask off and paint the engine bay area and detail it. I'm still in the process of working up some decals also. The interior was treated with the semi-gloss coat to give the vynil and leather sheen. Next is detail painting and some washes.

 

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Looks great, Mike! Keep up teh good work and teh interior is really spot-on IMHO. Ed, your '02 CE is no doubt a sweet ride! Post up a pic when you get a chance...let's inundate Mike with LOTS of F-Body love! LOL!!!! :smiley20:

 

Later,

 

Lee

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I broke out the airbrushes and masking film tonight. The windows, t-tops, and front grille area are now a satin black. The interior's 99% done, I just have to get the brake cylinder in with the pedals and the stick shift.

 

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Mike, what type of mask do you use? Do you airbrush it on or use a paint brush? The windows look great, almost like you had a vinyl mask for them.

Looking great!

Chris

 

I used the House of Kolor hobby masking film. It's clear and has a very mild "tacky" adhesive that burnishes down and peals off beautifully without harming the paint. It's also easy to follow your cut lines as clear as it is. I also have Parafilm, but opted for the HOK stuff as the parafilm was too cloudy and was too flexible. I used my Grex Genesis XG airbrush on lower air pressure and a .3 mm tip for small detail to spray the window trim and t=top trim along with the grille and front intake in the engine bay.

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