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World War I Parts


TheWalrus

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I am hooked on WWI scale models with the introduction of the Wing Nuts kits. My old skills are slowly returning with this interest. I have been sztymied with the need for small parts, especially the turnbuckles for rigging. A railroading friend of mine suggested checking Grant Line products and eureka. They have scale nuts, bolts, washers, turnbuckles and lots more which can ber used in all phases of modeling. Prices are right, too. Look in their Augmentables section. http://www.grandtline.com/model_railroad/a...ables_pages.htm

 

Life is once again good.

Edited by TheWalrus
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Hey, she's beautiful, just sayin' I'm sure she gets her good looks from her Dad!! :smiley16:

 

Those turnbuckles look great! Injection-molded? Also, is "S" scale close to 1/32? A dozen for $3 is a good deal....Imma have to get up the stones to start my WNW LVG. Haven't bothered with it, because it's "too nice" of a kit....I don't think I'd do it justice.

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I have no idea as to scale equivalents. I just ordered one of each size (cheap enough) and will see what looks right. I did the same for the nuts and washers. They are all a lot cheaper than the photo etches.

 

I ordered by phone and lady said they would go out "today" (yesterday). I will post my opinions when I get and/or use them.

 

I doubt if scale is a consideration. I think that appearance would be the criterion. By going with scale one could be way off. An aircraft rigging turnbuckle would not be the same size as a railroad turnbuckle. Same for nuts, bolts & such.

 

I have built the WNW Sopwith Pup and am finishing up the Albatros DV. I am satisfied with both builds but am still wandering in the rigging department. Problem 1 is the turnbuckles, and two is finding a way to fasten without getting a glob of CA or other adhesive tried for anchoring. CA seems to be winning, but finding a good way to apply the drop is now the problem. Using a curved x-acto blade tip is good, and I am also trying a longer needle tip also. Another keey t the rigging is to plan ahead. Building a bank of experience is also helping.

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HO & N scale hardware is useable for 1/35 armor projects, not sure about aircraft. The problem with turnbuckles is that rail TB's are shaped much differently -- shorter/wider vs longer/slimmer -- and of much heavier, but simpler construction. In 32nd scale, you need one about .06" diameter, hard to find in styrene.

 

No, I have no solution other than dipping the wire in CA and faking it .... Although for my WNW RNAS Pup, I am going to try the RB Productions photo-etch RAF Wire, which comes with scale fasteners ....

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As John mentioned, I think you'll find that the Grandt Line turnbuckles aren't what you're looking for. Aircraft turnbuckles are very streamlined, and the barrels are only marginally bigger in diameter than the rigging wires themselves. The ideas you'll find at the Bob's buckles site are much more appropriate for rigging WWI aircraft. Although I didn't use Bob's Buckles, I did very similar things when I rigged a DH2 earlier this year. (if this picture proves anything, it proves that macro photography isn't always the modeler's friend!)

 

 

riggingdetail.jpg

 

 

The line shown in this picture is .004 monofilament. It's available as fly fishing "tippet" line or as "invisible thread". The tubing I used is called Micro tubing, a fly fishing tidbit I found. It's nice because it's about the right size and is easy to cut to length. The downside is it's very flexible and elastic. I ended up with one or two turnbuckles that didn't quite straighten out all the way under tension. Here's a link to some:

 

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/template...equestid=116143

 

Click on the "size" drop down in the gray box and you'll see the sizes it comes in, again I used the "micro" size.

 

This method works well for "closed" barrel turnbuckles. There are also Photo etched turnbuckle examples out there. Both Eduard and Part have them in 1/48, which believe me, is plenty big for 1/32. The only problems I've found with them is that while they do look like open barrel turnbuckles, they are flat in profile (all etch is), aren't really completely accurate as the threaded ends of the rigging don't show in the middle and they are harder to work with as the rigging thread binds on the etch loops when you try to pull it tight.

 

I'm not exactly an illustrator, so I don't have anything done on the computer, and my hand drawn sketch of how I did the turnbuckles is a little rough, but if anyone wants a PDF of my handdrawn sketch, drop me a PM with you email addy and I'll send it out.

 

Mike

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Geez! What a variety of answers. I will be trying each one.

 

I have the Eduard etch rigging sets also. They are by their nature 1-dimensional, but I suspect a little white glue will bring them into the world of 3-D.

 

I will let you all know how the Grant Line stuff works out. Might even see them today in the post.

 

I have had several rigging lines finish up with a little slack in them. I tired using an incense stick held underneath (experiment but not too close!) I move the stick to where the smoke rises past the "wire" (monfilament fly fishing tippet line) after a little exposure the line will suddenly tighten up. Works great if you are careful.

 

Model smells great too! :smiley20:

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Geez! What a variety of answers. I will be trying each one.

 

I have the Eduard etch rigging sets also. They are by their nature 1-dimensional, but I suspect a little white glue will bring them into the world of 3-D.

 

I will let you all know how the Grant Line stuff works out. Might even see them today in the post.

 

I have had several rigging lines finish up with a little slack in them. I tired using an incense stick held underneath (experiment but not too close!) I move the stick to where the smoke rises past the "wire" (monfilament fly fishing tippet line) after a little exposure the line will suddenly tighten up. Works great if you are careful.

 

Model smells great too! :smiley20:

 

Aug. 28 addendum:

 

I received the Grandt Line products and am satisfied with what I got. Note that I am not into "rivet counting". The packages I ordered were numbers: 54, 4019, 5039 (turnbuckles). These are noted as 1:48, 1:64, 1:87 scales, but I only care about what looks about right. Also received were #'s 93, 128, 139, and 5066. These are various nut/washer combines in different "scales" once again. I can see applications for these too. I note that some of these packages come in brass also but at a VERY premium price. Once painted wh cares?

 

As far as quality the parts are injection molded and on sprues. Quality is very nice even in the really tiny sizes.

 

Anyway these do the trick for me at a good price.

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