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tomk

Sink Holes

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How do you remove sink holes?

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Personally, I fill-sand-curse...repeat as necessary.

 

I've used Bondo Glazing Putty, Squadron Green, Squadron White, superglue-and-talcum powder..all with varying results. And, I've heard of dissolving sprue in liquid cement and using that to fill seams, ejector pin marks, and sinkholes...

Edited by Keith Pruitt

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Tom,

Depending on the hole, the easiest is to use a punch and die. I have a regular Waldron Products one and it works 99% of the time. I use Testor's liquid cement. Put a drop in the hole and place the punched disk over or into the hole. If the disk is smaller or bigger then the hole, the cement melts part of the disk and that works as a plastic filler around the edges.

 

Mark

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How do you remove sink holes?

- Basically, you don't remove them but rather you "conceal" them under:

1. Putty.

2. Adhesive (I use CA adhesive for most assembly AND filling of minor imperfections and then sanding).

3. A piece of sheet plastic over the offending sink mark. The best example of this is sink marks inside landing gear wells. A small section of sheet plastic strategically placed over it/them goes a long way for "spicing up" the wheel well too.

- I also lump "ejection stamp" marks into the "sink holes" category. At least the "recessed" ejection stamp marks. Because many kits have a "raised" mark where an ejection pin left extra material. In most of those cases, it is simply a matter of carefully removing them with a knife and/or sand paper. On some occasions where the "raised" mark is inside a wheel well, I revert back to the strategically placed piece of thin sheet plastic over the offending area in the well and move on.

- This piece of sheet plastic in the bottom (or top, once you place the model right-side up again) tip also works for the dreaded fuselage join line running down the middle of the nose or tail wheel wells. IMO it's a lot easier to slip a piece of thin sheet plastci into the bottom of the well than to try and putty and sand that nasty seam up.

- HTH and Model on, Brother of the Sprue.

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FWIW, if it's not too deep I use the Mr. Surfacer 500. Any deeper and I use good ol' Aves. Let dry and then wet sand.

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Tom,

Depending on the hole, the easiest is to use a punch and die. I have a regular Waldron Products one and it works 99% of the time. I use Testor's liquid cement. Put a drop in the hole and place the punched disk over or into the hole. If the disk is smaller or bigger then the hole, the cement melts part of the disk and that works as a plastic filler around the edges.

 

Mark

 

Great tip! I have a Waldron Punch set, but I never considered filling in ejector pin and sink holes using it. Thanks much.

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Rusty,

Neither did I until one day I realized they were both round.

 

Mark

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