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This is basically home-brewed Alclad, which comes in handy if you can't get Alclad at a shop near you!

 

Let me start by saying that what I did was to modify Phil Hale's home-brew mix to fit what I had on hand, so the real credit for this paint goes to HIM. My understanding of what he does is he mixes Floquil Bright Silver with MM Sealer and lacquer thinner into a very thin mixture and then mists it on over a gloss black primer until he builds up the color depth desired.

 

For my purposes, I mixed the Floquil Bright Silver with a clear semi-gloss I had on hand, in this case; Sureguard "Pro-tecta-cote" photograph finish with UV inhibitors. You can use MM Sealer (like Phil Hale) or any other clear lacquer or enamel. They were mixed at about twice as much clear coat to sliver paint. That mix was then thinned at least 50% with lacquer thinner. This makes or a VERY thin silver paint that has a "hot" solvent for "bite" and a carrier (the clear) that will help it dry hard and glossy. Don't be surprised if you see little to no silver on your paint stick when you stir it up!

 

Mist it on at medium pressure (15-20lbs). Don't worry about full coverage on the first couple of passes. Try not to get too close or heavy so as to avoid "wet" coats at this point. Once you've covered the entire model, go back to where you started and do it again until you get the color depth you wanted.

 

This stuff goes on THIN, and is best applied over a gloss black primer. I had one part on the bottom of my Banshee that was unpainted resin and it took a LOT more passes to get the same color depth on it as on the black areas. You can see my initial results under the "Banshee" topic in the Aircraft threads. This stuff dried rock hard in less than 24hrs and should be as maskable as Alclad is.

 

One last thing....excellent surface prep work is STILL a necessity with this paint (like any and all NMFs). I used superglue as a filler, wet sanded with 600grit paper, primed with gloss black enamel AND shot a coat of Future in order to get the smoothest surface I could. I can still see areas where I was less than vigilant in my prep, but since this is a "get er done" model, it'll do for my shelf! But, be aware that you'll only get as good a result as you put into the model BEFORE you apply the silver! Cheers!

 

GIL :smiley16:

Edited by ghodges
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With that title name for a minute, you had me all excited about this thread. :D Good post if you're an A/C modeler.

Edited by LesWalden
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Hay Gil,

 

Gotta tell you - Great little write-up on your NMF technique. :smiley32:

 

While I've always been a fan of your incisive Forum commentary, I've rapidly become a fan of your models and how-to methods.

 

Thanks and keep up your great sharing. :smiley20:

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