Italeri 1/12 F-16 Cockpit

[StuartMont]

As I finish my 1/16 Sopwith Camel Diorama I decided to tackle this model. Both painting all of those knobs, toggles, switches, etc. and applying some very tiny decals has really challenged me and the result is cool, albeit from a comfortable distance, which is how it will be viewed so I get it.  I have mixed brush and airbrush painting on large parts that should have all been done with the airbrush but I'm still getting used to using to it.  I can certainly see a marked difference in quality since I have not mastered a light hand when brush painting large surfaces.  

I included a close up of the seat to ask some advice (you knew it was coming).  There is an intentional large gap at the top of the cushion(?).  This is not an error as shown on the photograph on the box where you see a change in texture/color.  However, the instructions are completely silent on this and I struggled for a bit trying to figure out how I could have screwed it up before I looked closely.  I've come to the conclusion that I should fill the gap with putty and try to model/paint the texture (I'll need good luck for that).  Does anybody have other thoughts?  Also, any advice on how to improve painting the details on the panels would be most welcome.  Thanks for looking.

Edited February 18 by StuartMont
Forgot to load photos

[ghodges]

 

Not sure if I followed you question correctly or not... but if you're asking if the back seat pad should look like it has two parts, an upper and lower, then it should, There's no need to fill that line across it.

If you're asking about the gap seen from the sides between the back padding and the metal seat; yes, that's a problem. It appears that the molded seat padding doesn't mirror the contours of the seat. Instead of filling that gap, I'd try removing the back pad, heating it in very hot water to soften it (if you cannot simply bend it by hand), and then try pushing/forming it against the seat back to hopefully get it to conform exactly or more closely.

If that doesn't work, I'd try supergluing it a bit at a time from the bottom to the top, making sure each bond was secure before moving up to the next in order to force glue it in place.

I wouldn't fill behind it because then your padding may look too thick, and as you mentioned you also have to get the filler that shows textured to match the rest of the padding. I'd make that the absolute last resort.

Hope this helps!

 

Gil 

[StuartMont]

Gil, thanks very much for responding.  While I was trying to resolve this problem I found many images of the completed model online.  All of these photos show that same triangular gap.  In fact, this photo shows that gap left empty by the person who built it.  Do you think Italeri made a production error and decided to release as is?  The photo on the box that I inserted in my first post clearly shows that gap filled with a material of different color and texture.

[Jmarc]

NNNNNNNNNNice !

[Mark Deliduka]

Both of those 'fixes' by the other two modelers do not look right. I would follow Gil's advice and do what you need to do to bend the pad back into position and glue it flush against the steel seat backing.

[StuartMont]

Gil and Mark,

Thanks for weighing in on this issue. I’ll work to close that gap by bending the pad.  The seatbelts will probably lay down nicer when that gap Is gone also. 
 

Stuart

[Ralph Nardone]

When the kit was first issued by ESCI back in 1983 (yep, that long ago!), the same issue was noted in a review in FineScale Modeler.  As Gil says, carefully bend the seat back cushion until it matches the contour of the seat frame.  Gentle heating is the key--perhaps dunking the cushion in hot water (around 170-180 degrees F--not boiling!) and then bending it will do the trick.

Ralph

[StuartMont]

Thanks for replying Ralph. I guess I’m just amazed that this problem was reflected on the box photo with an obvious fix shown. This is certainly a first for me, albeit without a huge experience sample 😀

These forums are awesome!!!

[Ron Bell]

Clearly, no gap. Bend as suggested. 

[StuartMont]

Thanks for replying Ron. Trying very hard but the seat is being persnickety.  It won’t come off easily. What I am trying to do is work my way up the gap and at least try to minimize it from the top to where it makes contact. 

Edited February 23 by StuartMont
Repeated words.

[Nick Filippone]

I am going to play devil’s advocate here and suggest that, respectfully, you have done a beautiful job on this cockpit, but are unnecessarily driving yourself mad with this trivial molding error.

I submit that, first of all, the picture of the real seat shows that the edges of the cushion are not against the metal frame. So the cushion must be convex in cross section if viewed from above and, therefore, there should be a gap at the edges. The simplest solution to an issue that probably nobody would notice anyway is to get some Perfect Plastic Putty, put it into the gap, and when dry, sculpt a cushion like shape, set back from the edge of the kit cushion on all three sides and then paint it an entirely different colour than the cushion already there. Do not try to paint it the same. Most people looking at it, including Judges, will have no idea it is anything more than a second layer of padding. Or a wedge of plastic, again a different colour, would accomplish the same thing.

Strictly speaking, accurate? - not quite. More than acceptable to even close examination?- definitely! 
 

Remember, this is supposed to be relaxation and fun - not a source of stress. 
Regards, Nick Filippone, Senior National Judge 

 

[StuartMont]

Good morning Nick and thanks very much for your post.  I really appreciate your kind words about the build.  And yes, unfortunately I do drive myself mad even doing stuff that I love to do. My 40 years of designing bridges and buildings has created that drive to get it exactly right, its ingrained now.  I thought about using putty and noted it in my first post.  It’s pretty clear that the prototype photographed on the box cover was modified the way you described.  The photo posted by Ron gave me another thought (yikes!).  That pad looks like three pieces to me.  

This is done except for one knob and one toggle which have joined the tiny piece graveyard that is my carpet.  I know I focused on the gap issue but I am still interested to hear any advice on painting those tiny knobs, etc. I masked off the base, painted all of the panels black and then the knobs, toggles, switches, decals, etc.  There were many places where I had to touchup the black panels because I slipped with the brush.

I hope I don’t annoy people on this forum with my nature, it’s hard to suppress.  

Here are some photos of the completed model sans the “gap fix”.  I‘ll post the final photo when I am done that as well.

[ghodges]

Looks great! I'd proudly sit it on my shelf!

 

Gil 

[StuartMont]

Thanks very much Gil. I appreciate your kind words, and, most of all, your time spent helping me with my issues.  I know there are many, but they are reducing in number as I gain experience building these models and reading posts on these forums.

Stuart

[Mark Deliduka]

I'm with Gil; this looks sensational already. Well done on the panels.

[StuartMont]

Thanks very much Mark!  These are cool models but those little knobs are hard to remove from the sprues without deforming them.  Looking back I should have used a knife rather than the nippers.  This is my second one, had some practice on the F-104 cockpit.  I’m going to see if there are others available, they look good placed next to each other.