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Rigging 1/72 scale Biplanes


Narampa
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I use .1mm nickel-silver wire from Albion Alloys. I measure the length carefully, and install it with tiny beads of scenic glue.  For runs of less than 4 inches, it stays rigid - perfect for 1:72 scale. A package lasts two or three fighters; if you're building an F.2A or a Gotha, get a couple packages. 🙂

IMG_2094 (3).jpg

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3 hours ago, Chris Bucholtz said:

I use .1mm nickel-silver wire from Albion Alloys. I measure the length carefully, and install it with tiny beads of scenic glue.  For runs of less than 4 inches, it stays rigid - perfect for 1:72 scale. A package lasts two or three fighters; if you're building an F.2A or a Gotha, get a couple packages. 🙂

IMG_2094 (3).jpg

Very nice job!

 

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I build in 1/48 and use "6mil" (.06) ceramic wire (Wonder Wire). It looks to me like it'd work well in 1/72, especially as it's "smoke" colored and thus not real bright and harder to see if you don't paint it. It's flexible, will not kink (it would actually shatter or break first!), but stays straight once in place without the need to heat it to make it taut. You simply drill holes for each end, measure and cut a length slightly longer than needed, flex it into each hole and it's done! You can add a spot of glue if you want, but it's not always needed. Wonder Wire is sold by Precision Enterprises (a mom and pop biz) and you can contact them at: 802-885-3094. It runs about $10 for a package with @6ft of the wire.

Other than that, there's always the good old standby: stretched sprue.....if you're not familiar with it you can look up techniques on how to stretch it (and its uses) on You Tube. It's easy to use, BUT it does need to be heated to get it to tighten up properly....and THAT'S where the problems can occur (and why i switched to wonder Wire!).

The steel wire Chris mentioned is great also.....BUT you do have to cut it precisely, and metal wire can also kink while handling; leading to a strong "learning curve" in using it until you master it and don't waste so much with short cuts and kinked wires that cannot be used.

These 1/48 models have Wonder Wire for their rigging1503371622_005(3).thumb.JPG.90caf38d489ed001ee80ba0667c57639.JPG

997636385_001(3).thumb.JPG.00b82b3fc039c2523c10758f68ae9033.JPG

1820911307_003(3).thumb.JPG.03110682dee1c403a703cab88fcf1a6a.JPG

GIL.....

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I've used invisible thread (about 0.004") and strands of wire pulled from broken audio or computer cables. I have some Uschi elastic rigging thread but I haven't had success with it yet. (User error, I'm sure.) To my eyes, guitar strings look too large for 1/72 scale.

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On 11/17/2021 at 5:25 PM, ghodges said:

I build in 1/48 and use "6mil" (.06) ceramic wire (Wonder Wire). It looks to me like it'd work well in 1/72, especially as it's "smoke" colored and thus not real bright and harder to see if you don't paint it. It's flexible, will not kink (it would actually shatter or break first!), but stays straight once in place without the need to heat it to make it taut. You simply drill holes for each end, measure and cut a length slightly longer than needed, flex it into each hole and it's done! You can add a spot of glue if you want, but it's not always needed. Wonder Wire is sold by Precision Enterprises (a mom and pop biz) and you can contact them at: 802-885-3094. It runs about $10 for a package with @6ft of the wire.

Other than that, there's always the good old standby: stretched sprue.....if you're not familiar with it you can look up techniques on how to stretch it (and its uses) on You Tube. It's easy to use, BUT it does need to be heated to get it to tighten up properly....and THAT'S where the problems can occur (and why i switched to wonder Wire!).

The steel wire Chris mentioned is great also.....BUT you do have to cut it precisely, and metal wire can also kink while handling; leading to a strong "learning curve" in using it until you master it and don't waste so much with short cuts and kinked wires that cannot be used.

These 1/48 models have Wonder Wire for their rigging1503371622_005(3).thumb.JPG.90caf38d489ed001ee80ba0667c57639.JPG

997636385_001(3).thumb.JPG.00b82b3fc039c2523c10758f68ae9033.JPG

1820911307_003(3).thumb.JPG.03110682dee1c403a703cab88fcf1a6a.JPG

GIL.....

I'm going to see if I can get that wire. You make beautiful models!

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9 hours ago, MAShelley said:

I've used invisible thread (about 0.004") and strands of wire pulled from broken audio or computer cables. I have some Uschi elastic rigging thread but I haven't had success with it yet. (User error, I'm sure.) To my eyes, guitar strings look too large for 1/72 scale.

I tried invisible thread and didn't have very good success! Will try again (practice makes perfect I guess)

 

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  • 2 months later...

Another vote for invisible thread!

 

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The hardest part, is drilling all the very tiny holes!  After that, I secure the anchor end with a tiny drop of CA cement.  After that dries, I pull the length of thread (cut excessively long) through the hole in let's say the wing. I then put tension on the thread, using a tiny alligator clip, etc. (Fly-tying hackle pliers work great for this!).  Sometimes I have to put something, like a box or paint bottle, against the model while I tension the thread, just enough to pull it taut.  Then I apply another drop of CA where the thread exits the top or bottom of the wing.  When dry, trim closely, sand if needed, and touch up the paint.  I usually paint the wings first, but leave off the decals.  Then I rig, then touch up or over-spray the top of the top, and bottom of the bottom, wings... 

Start with something simple, like a Stearman, before tackling the giant bombers!

Best of luck,

Ed

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  • 1 month later...

I'm a bit of a throw-back and go old school with stretched sprue. Heat it, stretch it to the appropriate thickness, let it cool, cut it a tiny bit longer than needed, glue into place with a drop of white glue. When dry, if it is sagging, put a toothpick in a candle flame and let it light. Blow it out and then place the rigging line into the smoke (or visa versa). Slowly draw closer until the sprue snaps tight. Get too close and it melts, but it's easy to start over and no harm done. Some sprue stretches better than others and maybe best of all, it comes in all sorts of colors. This is the 1/72 Contrail Vacuform Wildebeest. 

DSCN1536.thumb.JPG.918664897df8bce78561c0e7729c387b.JPG

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