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1/48 KittyHawk FJ-3M Fury


ghodges

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Finished this one this evening....I closed up the ammo bays and gun bays, and left out the engine. The wing fold is a kit option, and fits very well either way. I did add all of the detail on the shelf behind the seat as KH provides absolutely nothing back there as well as the forgotten seat rails. I also lengthened the nose gear strut as KH molded it with almost no oleo showing (ala a museum bird); and turned it some "for that more candid look". By the way, the white on the wing tip lights is Micro Krystal Klear which hasn't dried yet! The markings are from Caracal and performed flawlessly.

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Pic of the work behind the seat....

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Pic of the model in progress...see below for short cuts in building this kit!

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1) Despite the instructions, you do NOT need the gun bay parts to build and fit the cockpit tub. Simply glue the 2 side walls to each side and the floor and leave all the other parts out. One note: TRIM THE RUDDER PEDALS...they're a bit too wide to fit in the spaces if you don't!

2) You need to cut the forward "U" shaped locating slots on the insides of the forward fuselage halves for the cockpit tub and make them into an "L" shape. Once this is done, the assembled tub CAN be inserted into the completed fuselage, and does NOT need the intake trunk for support.

3) Remove the locating pins from the cockpit tub bottom and the locating lugs from the top of the intake trunk and the assembled trunk can be slid into position under the cockpit tub in the assembled fuselage. You may need to remove part of the bottom rear of the intake trunking as it tends to hit the top of the gear bays when attaching the wing, complicating the wing's fit.

4) Most all of the doors fit very well on this kit. BUT, be aware that the attachment sprues require a bit more trimming as parts of them are on the inside gluing surfaces as well as the outside. The exception to this is if you want to close up the speed brakes....their arms require a LOT of trimming to fit into their slots and to allow the brakes to fit flush.

5) If you don't use the engine, you need to come up with an exhaust pipe for the tail. You can cut the one from the kit supplied engine, or as I did, use concentric plastic tubing in the rear. This provides a support tube that allows the exhaust tube to be placed inside at the end of the build, and also gives you a place to put a "handle" for painting the fuselage!

6) If you want to join the front and rear fuselages together, there's NO pins or tabs to help, and the bulkheads provided in the kit for detail do not aid in this either (I left them out too). Instead, you need to use some strip plastic in the inside of that joint to provide more  strength and gluing surface.

7) You DO need to use the ammo bay part forward of the wings even if you close up the ammo bay doors. A section of the center bottom fuselage is molded integrally with the ammo bay. However, it can be added to the wings and that entire assembly can be added to the completed fuselage with only some slight trimming at the front of the fuselage wing roots.

8- The kit would have you add the nose gear assembly early, leaving it sticking out in the way for most of the build. Instead, the nose gear assembly CAN be built (though you'll wish for a 3rd hand!) and then SLID into place later, BUT...you have to grind off the ribbing in the front half of the nose gear well to do so.

9) The inside edges of the top wing roots need to be modified. There's a projection of the wing at the rear...saw it off so that the wing root edges of each top wing are a simple straight line from front to rear. This will allow the rear of the wing assembly bottom to fit much more flush with the fuselage, and help eliminate a step at that joint.

Sorry to see KH call it quits. This is one of their better kits...hopefully someone will pick up the molds and release it again.

GIL :cool:

Edited by ghodges
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Good looking Fury Gil! I really like the additions behind the seat to fill the “black hole”.

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