nmertes Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 I'm very slowly building a Monogram 1/48th scale F-106. Any of you that have built either the Monogram or Trumpeter kit recall how much nose weight you used? It probably won't be very much as the main gear is set fairly far back on the airframe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheveuxroux Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 FWIW...........a build in progress on Arcforums by member crobinsonh shows the nose filled but no specific weight mentioned: November 10, 2014 in In-Progress Pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted October 14, 2020 Report Share Posted October 14, 2020 I built the 1/48 scale Monogram F-106 and if I recall I had a round 1/4oz fishing weight in the nose, plus another one somewhere near the cockpit. It's been awhile though, so if you need to experiment, go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmertes Posted October 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 Thanks Mark. That's about what I expected. BTW I've been using self-adhesive wheel weights for a couple years. They are in ¼ ounce segments and can be pounded very thin & folded/molded into almost any shape you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Deliduka Posted October 15, 2020 Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 Interesting. I've always used fishing weights but that does sound interesting. I know my mechanic uses them and I've picked up a few used ones off his parking lot but never used them before this. Now to find out where I put those. Hmmm....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheveuxroux Posted October 15, 2020 Report Share Posted October 15, 2020 Before a local sporting goods store changed hands, I bought several tins of lead BBs for use as nose weights. I notice that Haendler & Natermann lead BBs are still available in 1500 ct quantities. Lead BBs might be useful as an alternative to chopping up larger lead items for cramped locations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJ Posted October 16, 2020 Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 Ok, here is a thought for you all. Woods metal is readily available and can be used in models. It has a melting point of about 160 F so well below boiling water. In the case of a nose mount you could melt some(just to a liquid) and place the nose in cold water so it keeps the plastic cool, and pour a little metal in. It will then be a perfectly fitted weight. It is really very close to lead in weight. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood's_metal Like lead the vapors are toxic, so use in a well ventilated space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmertes Posted October 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 Interesting idea, Pete. I've never heard of Woods's metal before. I found it on amazon.com but, it looks like a rather small amount. Any idea where it can be found locally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteJ Posted October 16, 2020 Report Share Posted October 16, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, nmertes said: Interesting idea, Pete. I've never heard of Woods's metal before. I found it on amazon.com but, it looks like a rather small amount. Any idea where it can be found locally? I don't know of any local sellers but I just Google woods metal and come up with a lot of places that sell 1 pound ingots or other forms. I would get it from one of the scientific suppliers. I seem to have had better luck with them. To be honest with you, I bought mine a long time ago so I am not sure where I got it. I would bet it was in Pennsylvania for an interesting reason. The maker was using old Hershey's molds. My pieces came looking like single squares off of a Hershey bar. 😆 I originally bought it to use as a low temperature solder. It really works well for that. If you want something with a higher melting point but below boiling water, you can also get Rose metal. That melts at about 200 degrees. I came to use it when soldering parts together on a model. I often I have to solder two or more pieces close to each other. The problem is when you go to solder the second piece, it melts the solder on the first piece and it falls off, so I use a lower temperature solder on the second piece. Works great when you can't get a heat sink between the two pieces. Edited October 16, 2020 by PeteJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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