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Airfix 1/48 Walrus, best method for rigging?

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I have been putting off building the new 1/48 scale Airfix Walrus.  Rigging a biplane scares me to death!  I sure this question has been asked many times?  I searched the Web for the best/easiest way to rig a biplane in 1/48 scale.   I could try drilling a hole putting the rigging wire through(EZ line) and using Superglue to hold the line in the hole.  Drilling a dimple on the bottom wing and then Superglueing the EZ line (pulling it taunt) in the dimple.  Is this best/easiest way to rig?  Should the rigging be done after painting and decals are put on?  If so, how are the dimples handled?  I do not want to ruin the paint work by filling and sanding the dimple.  Anyone have any ideas on how I should go about this?   Thanks.

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I haven't seen the Airfix Walrus, but my method of rigging 1/72 models has always entailed drilling holes and threading nylon monofilament ("invisible" thread, smoke color) through the holes. With proper planning, you can run several rigging wires using one length of thread. For one-piece wings, I countersink my starting holes for a knot in the thread; this is then filled and sanded smooth and painted after the rigging is complete. I paint the top of the bottom wing and the bottom of the top wing prior to assembly and rigging. If the wings are two-piece (top and bottom), I assemble the model with just the inner halves of the wings, rig the model, then complete the assembly.

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Rigging is a CHORE, no matter what method you use.

If you choose to drill holes all the way through and use one LONG piece of nylon thread, it can simplify things somewhat. However, you're also left with HOLES in surfaces that must be filled and repainted, which chances breaking that rigging while handling the model to do that.

If you choose the traditional method of drilling anchor holes (partway in) and then using either nylon thread or stretched sprue; you can avoid a lot of filling and repainting. However, that rigging is usually applied in a "limp" form (longer than needed) and the you MUST apply heat to tighten it up. THAT of course can lead to problems when the rigging is either stubborn and won't straighten out completely or you burn through a piece (or two, or more!) and then have to do those over again!

You can also use very fine wire and cut it JUST long enough to fit into the drilled holes. This works well IF you can find wire of the right size. BUT, it's also very easy to KINK a piece when setting it in place, which means you have to throw it out and cut another, and another, and another....

The BEST method and material I've found is .6mil ceramic Wonder Wire. This works very well for 1/48, and can work with the other scales, though not as perfectly size-wise. You drill holes partway like you would for sprue or wire and cut your Wonder Wire JUST longer then the length needed. You then flex it into the holes, it WILL NOT KINK! It's also easy to cut to length using an X-acto knife. It comes in a smokey gray color, so you don't need to paint it, though it's also very easy to color it black with a Sharpie pen, or silver with a paint pen before applying it.

The biggest drawback is trying to get it! The only source I've ever known is Precision Enterprises. Despite the name, the seems to be a mom/pop operation. They have no web site. You have to call them and order over the phone. They DO take credit card purchases, so once you get them, it's easy. Also it's not expensive being about $10/6ft length. I've tried to find "ceramic wire" other places, but came up dry...Their ph# (last I knew) is: 802-885-3094

Here's a pic of a BFC-2 Goshawk and an F-11C-2 Goshawk I rigged with Wonder Wire...

005_3.jpg

008.jpg

 

Hope this helps!

 

GIL :cool:

Edited by ghodges

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Thanks Gil, I will be using wire .  Awhile back I bought some  wire in different diameters. I will post pictures when the Walrus is done  Wish me luck.

Edited by ju52junk
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1 hour ago, Wolfman63 said:

EZ Line is a great product for doing aircraft (and ship) rigging. Here is a link to the Wingnuts website that has a very good tutorial on rigging a biplane with EZ-Line.

http://www.wingnutwings.com/ww/productdetail?productid=3046&cat=6

 

Dave,

Thanks for pointing me to this website.  It all seems so simple now to do rigging.

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I know a few people who've used the EZ line and liked it. For myself, when I tried it, I couldn't get it to work. Trying to put the end of the line into an anchor hole was like trying to shoot pool with a piece of rope....

 

GIL :cool:

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1 hour ago, ghodges said:

I know a few people who've used the EZ line and liked it. For myself, when I tried it, I couldn't get it to work. Trying to put the end of the line into an anchor hole was like trying to shoot pool with a piece of rope....

 

GIL :cool:

I will try wire on one model and EZ line on another model, to see which method of rigging I like best.  I use EZ liine for antenna wire but not for rigging.  I have been on a buying binge lately(who am I kidding, I am always on a buying binge).  I have just ordered Hasegawa's Dave and Pete(both biplane float planes and Hasegawa's PE rigging made for both planes(like the PE rigging for Tamiya's Swordfish).

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8 hours ago, ghodges said:

I know a few people who've used the EZ line and liked it. For myself, when I tried it, I couldn't get it to work. Trying to put the end of the line into an anchor hole was like trying to shoot pool with a piece of rope....

 

GIL :cool:

Reminds me of a joke...

Clem:  "Hey, Cletus, why you pulling that rope?"

Cletus:  "Ever tried to push one?"

:blink:

I've always used either Davis' Invisible Thread (the smoke color stuff if you can find it) or some .010 stainless wire I bought at the 1999 IPMS/USA National Convention.  Admittedly, the wire is easier for rigging where you have multiple runs of wire.  Invisible Thread works well for single lines, like antennas.  Gil cited the reasons above--the thread will need to be tensioned, and tensioning multiple wires at the same time is a royal pain...

Ralph

 

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