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Williams Bros 1/72 C-46 Builld Series, Part 12

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Hi all,

 

Here we go again with more C-46 progress and getting close to the end. I'm gonna be glad to be done with it and I'm sure my client will be! Anyhoo, I hope you enjoy this next set of photos. Comments are welcome as always.

 

The True Details vacuform canopy, masked and about ready for installation. I started out intending to use the Eduard mask set as a base, then filling in with blue tape. That proved not to be a good choice, so I switched over to only blue tape. A light touch and a brand new #11 blade is essential to mask a vacuform canopy, but it can be done. And, yes, John, I know one of the windows is too small. That was corrected before installing the canopy.

 

 

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With the canopy installed, the familiar contours of the C-46 become apparent. I still need to finish fairing in the canopy, then go over the entire airframe for a final cleanup before moving it to the paint shop.

 

 

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The photoetch detail that installs on the outside of the wheel will be interfered with by the Scale Aircraft Conversions axle length. All you have to do is use a sprue cutter to nip the axle flush with the wheel, as seen here.

 

 

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On the left is the shortened axle versus the original on the right.

 

 

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The kit struts have a very poor mounting design, basically a butt joint that relies on the other links and yokes to provide the necessary support strength. You'll find the same problem in the SAC metal replacements, which is not their fault. The replacements have to duplicate the kit parts in order to fit the model. However, there is a way to improve things.

 

I used a 1/16" drill bit to create a small depression or dimple in the top of the metal strut, then switched to a 3/64" drill bit to drill a deeper hole. You'll need a Dremel to do the job since the strut's metal makes for very slow progress if you opt for a pin vise.

 

 

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With the hole drilled, I cut a piece of .047" diameter music wire to about 1/2" long. A toothpick was used to place a small amount of BSI IC-2000 CA in the hole and added the wire. It'll take a couple of minutes or thereabouts to set, so keep making an minute adjustments in order to guarantee a vertical alignment. You'll also want to make sure that no CA accumulates above the top of the strut. If it does, remove it before it sets hard.

 

For those who don't know, BSI (Bob Smith Industries) CAs are a private label product. Whoever you buy it from will have their name (hobby shop, hardware store, whatever) on the front, but the label design and product name...IC-2000 in this case...will always be the same. If you want to be sure it's a BSI product, look at the fine print on the back label.

 

 

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I'm finally at a point where I'll be using that second fret of photoetch...or at least most of it.

 

 

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Before adding the wheel photoetch detail, I ran a 1/16" drill bit thru the wheel axle holes and also did a test fit of the metal axles. Satisfied with the results, parts 31 from the second photoetch fret were added to the back of the wheels. On the right is the stock wheel , with the photoetch part installed on the right. Gator's Grip Thin Blend was used here and the operative application word is thin. It doesn't take much Gator's Grip to hold the photoetch and you don't want to use so much that it'll squeeze up thru the perforations.

 

 

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When the photoetch is dry on the back, the wheels were flipped over and parts 27 were added. Installed detail is on the left and stock wheel on the right. You can see in this shot why the metal axles had to be shortened.

 

 

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The stock main gear doors already have some fairly nice detail molded into them, but the addition of parts 23-26 add a lot. Note that these are handed, so pay attention to the photoetch instructions. A kit door is at the photo top with the photoetch enhanced version at the bottom. As with all photoetch detail used for this build, Gator's Grip Thin Blend was relied on for installation.

 

 

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Williams Bros chose not to provide any extra tail wheel doors, instead requiring you to carefully remove the molded-in doors and reuse them. The photoetch fret provides both replacement doors and interior detail in one. At the bottom of this photo is one door as it comes on the fret. When you bend the part along the center line, you get what you see at the top of the photo, a complete door with interior detail.

 

 

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Since the metal props my client provided did not come with shafts of any kind, some had to be created. I had already planned to sleeve the props so they would be removable and the engine inserts had been previously modified for that purpose. So, I used a 1/16" ...or .060" if you prefer...drill bit to enlarge the hole in the back of each prop. Then a 1/2" long piece of .060" brass tubing was inserted using IC-2000 CA. That's it. All that remains is to paint the props and they'll be ready for installation.

 

 

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​Richard, I'm thinking to emulate your most excellent project. Are the etched brass parts by Eduard? Part number? Thanks!

 

Geo.

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Hey George,

 

The photoetch is produced by Maestro Models. The direct link to the C-46 set is www.maestromodels.com/photoetch-set.html?manufacturer=754&scale=303

Part number it MAX MMP 7224. BTW, I will be offering an ebook on this project not too long after the model is completed and shipped. Besides everythng you've seen in this thread, there'll be some additional information and tips.

 

Good luck with your C-46.

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​Thanks, Richard -- have just ordered a set. Also, forgot to ask your views on the replacement props. Who did them, and are they worth the cost?

 

​Best,

 

​Geo.

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The replacement props were provided by my client. No idea where he got them. As a result, I can't offer an opinion about the value of their cost. Wish I had more info for you, but that's all I know.

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Thanks​ again, Richard. I guess I should have asked the question that matters: are they an Improvement over the kit props? And, how will we know when your e-book is pub'd?

Edited by GeorgeC

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Hey George,

 

Sorry it took awhile to get back to you. Had computer problems to deal with. The 3-blade metal props, if you can find them, would be preferable to the kit props in my opinion. This is mainly due to the fact that you don't have to build them up. Keep in mind that the kit version has a two part hub as well as the blades to assemble, align and clean up. The 4-blade kit props are worse due to the extra blade on each hub. One modeler modified Quickboost Marauder blades. Since each blade was too short, he cut each blade at the cuff and inserted a piece of styrene to stretch them to the correct length. Hope some of this helps.

 

When will you know the ebook is available? I'll post a notice here if our moderator will allow it.

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